rock-ice

Climb: Mount Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 4/8/2006 Trip Report: My old climbing partner Darren, a recent transplant to California, was in town for the week on business and had Friday and Saturday for some climbing. We left the gate at Bridge Creek around 9 Friday morning. The climb to the TH went quickly on the hard snow, taking only an hour and an half. The two and half miles to the Colchuck Lake junction went quickly as well. Departing the packed trail we went cross-country eventually climbing to camp in the upper Mountaineer’s Creek basin, where we carved a fatty campsite on the downhill side of a boulder. At 4 the next morning we departed camp in light snowfall. We reached the first 'difficulties' on the ice cliff at first light. We found most of the difficulties still burried and easily scurted. The snow was a little unconsolidated, which slowed our progress, but all in all not too bad. Only one spot near the top of the Ice Cliff provided any exposed necessary ice climbing. As we were climbing the weather began to deteriorate. By the time we crossed the bergschrund and began climbing the couloir, spindrift, which had collected on ledges only to pour off, was coming down in big clouds every 5 minutes or so. We stayed out of the way as best we could by staying on the right side of the couloir. About 200ft beneath the top of the couliour we running leads and I headed up to find a weakness in the menacing cornice. On my first attempt I tried to hook some rocks on the far left side which might have provided away around the tallest part of the cornice. Near vertical loose snow over hidden rocks thwarted this first go. Next I targeted a divot in the cornice which I thought I might have been able to hack through. After a little progress the wind began to whip over the cornice and into my little notch, blowing everything I knocked off back into my face. Eventually I backed down 20ft and brought up Darren, who by this time was getting a little chilly. We had hauled the shovel blade up the route for this purpose. So, whilst belayed Darren dug out a path where I had been trying to carve a path with my tools. At the notch we elected to descend in light of the poor visibility and weather. After spending a long time trying to find the Sherpa Glacier we began our descent. After dropping for some time we concluded we had dropped off a sub ridge, which though originally facing East, like the couloir atop the Sherpa, turned South rather than North. So, we backtracked and carefully found the correct descent route back to camp. The Bergschrund on the Sherpa is still buried and by staying left we avoided any holes. At camp we packed up and started out just before 5pm. The trail and road were no longer hard pack, which made the hike out sure drudgery. We reached the car at 11pm. Making for 19 hours on the move. Only have a few pic, which I'll post when I get them from Darren. Gear Notes: Didn't need screws Picketts were useful Used a few pitons in the couloir Approach Notes: Hard Pack road and trail to the Colchuck Junction, this softens later in the day making movement a real pain.

Skis won't help you much for the first mile and the trail to the colchuck lake jnct was super icy when I went through, pretty scary to ski.

Bump. Anyone venture up this past weekend?

Nice pics.

No kidding... Thanks for the update anyways.

Is this the WI3 to the right of rap wall and bryant buttress? Or is this alpental falls? Is the kiddie cliff in? Thanks.

Thanks for the update. I''ll be up there next weekend. On a side note, where is the route featured on the cover of Washington Ice? Credit says its "Flight to Mars" at Snoqualmie Pass, but its not described within. Just curious.

Alpine Slogging Looking Down the Emmons at Sunrise Link to Fullsized Senic Mineral Butte summit looking towards Monte Cristo, Columbia Link to Fullsized

Last time I was there there were a bunch of podunks firing in the feathers parking lot.

Nice write up, good beta. Welcome to cc.com.

I climbed the NE ridge last saturday and had a good time. The rock isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be, and the climbing is moderate. You only need pro (slings or otherwise) from the notch on. I would recommend crampons as the glacier was bullet-hard. Have fun, maybe you'll get the views we missed for the most part. Saturday

I'll be at vantage thursday thru saturday so stop by the big group site near aglatha tower if you need some one to swap belays with. Have a rack and rope. Would prefer trad, but sports fine. Just ask around for michael the cc.com'er, or pm me today.

Russian Butte

Beautiful pictures! Really a wonderful climb.

Thanks Mark. Somebody must have a good picture of the line up on the cleaver, or maybe the solar toilet. Come on folks.

Good I am glad to hear that. Send me your email address and I will give you what I have. I am sure there are many pictures floating in the gallery that might be relevant as well.

That would be a very cool trip. The 'glaciers' on daniel are very mild and all of the middle fork snoqualmie river peaks are 4 class or less (most). I think this would be a nice well rounded trip. You wouldn't see a lot of people the second half either. I did the Buck Creek Traverse last summer and it was very cool. Be aware though neither of these trips are on amazing rock (i.e. choss). There are awsome views of glacier peak on the second trip, and a small likely hood of bad weather. Sure wish I had a week to climb...

I have some pictures that might illistrate your point, but whats your agenda? Is your report arguing for more regulation at the camps, as far as fewer permits or what?

Not that I know anything, but which route? Aren't there four or more on the E face?

Too much work to figure it all out. I just tell people I'm 100% mutt...

Good on you for doing that. Might want to cross post this to the Lost and Forum section though...

Cool! Thanks for the tr.

The most common loop, which I think your refering to fox goes ozette to sandpoint to cape alava to ozette, little less than 10 miles. Senic but it will be crowded on the weekends and you have to carry a bear bucket. You can camp at Sandpoint or Alava. I recommend somewhere in between (fewer crowds), which the forest service doesn't. If your going on a weekend I would recommend one of Matt's suggestions to the south.

I wonder what his first post was...*chimes*

With a few tent questions going around I thought I would put in my two cents. I bought my Walrus Rapeede XV about 5 years ago for really cheap, but if I had paid full price I would still be happy with it. Its fairly light (sub 6lbs.), very strong and really quick to set up. So if you need a good 4 season tent and can't spend $500, iwould recommend this one. That is if they're still being made... Does anyone know it walrus is still producing new tents for retail or were they complwtely obsolved (sp?) by msr? Either way, great tent