Farrgo

dmuja I can speak of A-F as I was with Donn V on Thursday. I saw their vehicle parked at the Tilly Jane Sno Park with a note explaining their plans and why they had not purchased a snow-parks permit. The note indicated that they were going to sleep on route but it seems they decided to stay at the Tilly Jane cabin. I did not actually talk to them, I skied by the cabin and noticed somebody was there, while Donn stopped in to retrieve an item. The note said they planned to descend the south-side and then pick up the vehicle after the road (HWY 35) was opened on Saturday. Also, the note indicated that they would descend the Cooper Spur route in an emergency, which seemed an odd choice, but like I mentioned I never talked to them about it. I can't speak for g), but I think I recall something about that in the note. I believe the second note was found in the guest register of the Tilly Jane cabin.

Fisticuffs. I love that climb. Great warm-up for Illusion Dweller.

Also not mentioned... Sail Away, Super Roof, Bearded Cabbage, and Sidewinder (for the more courageous of us).

If your going to have a full moon make sure to join the crazies and do a nightitme Loveland trip.

A few years ago.

Clean and Jerk

There opening the entire highway from Government Camp to Hood River. Riley's Blog

No reason to spring for the fusion picks unless you want to climb hard mixed routes. Anything else will be better on ice.

Gear express has a bunch of short ropes availiable. I don't believe there off the spool per se, just leftover sections.

I talked to my buddy who lives in North Bonneville and it sounds like its no where close. If you look at the trip reports from years past it looks like you need a week of temperatures in the teens to set it up. We are hovering right around freezing.

Bryan, pics are sent.

More Hyalite sweetness... Bryan leading The Good Looking One Donn and Matt trying not, to swing that way, on the sodomy creek crossing. Bryan styling the Scepter. Donn leading Champagne Slot.

This has something about it: Dave Riley's Blog

I don't think that really explains the failure from the other thread. He was rapelling. I don't think rapelling would generate significantly more force (although I see how it could)than using a daisy, especially for jugging. What I gathered from the thread was that the severity of the bend contributed most toward the failure. It seems that the way a daisy is girthed through the harness doesn't yield the same sharpness of bend as skinny runner girthed to skinny runner.

Some classics (of course there are too many to name): Weeping Wall (any route), The Professor Falls, Polar Circus, Guiness Gully and all the other Beer Climbs, I've always enjoyed Louise Falls.

I heard this morning that they are expecting HWY 35 to be open from Govt. Camp? in three or four weeks. Apparently the road is still intact and once they get the bridge inspected it will be good to go. From Meadows north, the road is undercut and damaged in a couple spots and will take longer.

Granted you are not going to be sending hard face climbs if you a very, or even a bit, overweight. The key is you need to have an athletic build. That doesn't neccessarily mean you need to be emaciated, because I've seen it done by people who definately are not. Being tall, and skinny, with the grip strength of mutated baboon on pcp does help but are not the limiting factors.

Hmmm... Sharma looked smaller than that. Ok, how about Lynn Hill she's just barely (if even) 5 feet.

Chris Sharma is tiny (not sure about his weight) and his climbs speak for themself. I've known very beefy guys who climb hard trad 11+ and hard mixed m10+. It's easy to get hung up on body size as a limiting factor in climbing ability, but its just not the case. People of all sizes can climb hard.... koombyeya my lord, koombyeya...

I remember reading a report about a pretty scary slide in early season conditions on a summer ice field. I'll link it if I can remember where it was. Ski cutting is an advanced technique. While I know Chris is a guide and spends more days in the field per year than I have in my life, I would be leary of ski cutting. You really need to know what your doing to make sure your cut is in the right spot or you might end up trigging the slide with you in it. Take an avy course, or two, or three. The more knowledge you have the more aware of dangers your going to be. I would tend to agree with your friend if your talking about not a lot of snow with many obstacles exposed. If your talking about new snow on top of old snow, its a different story. I'm not an expert but I've kind of taken to heart, "if you can ski it, it can slide." So, don't think just because its early season, its game on, you still need to be aware.

I try to make sure to weight lift after I climb. That way I'm still fresh for climbing. Of course, my weight lifting suffers (not that I care). Don't plan on lifting and climbing hard at the same time. Save lifting for the off seasons (late fall after rock before ice, early spring after ice before rock)

Climbing without training is better than training without climbing. That's a given. What Gadd doesn't point out is that even though some climbers con't touch weights he still wicked strong. I've watched Gadd climb and he throws figure four to figure four, hangs casually off of only one arm, and locks off like a champ. So he's obviously strong. Technique can go a loooong way, but it eventually comes down to strength.

Except for how it impacts getting to climbing routes on Hood.

RMNP can be a bit hit or miss conditions wise. Vail will definately be in. Don't worry about crowds unless you plan on climbing the Wi3 next to Secret Probation, the Thang, the Fang, or Rigid Designator. I climbed at the Belfry and at the Club many times last season and never waited for anything. Weekdays are definately better then weekends. Lincoln Falls will be in, and there is more than enough ice to go around.

Meadows is definately out right now. But it sounds like limited access will be availiable much earlier than the rumor mill suggested. KATU News Report If anyone has specific beta about the back way to Cooper Spur, I'm all ears.