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tomtom

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Everything posted by tomtom

  1. I think the railroad should just shotcrete the crag and be done with it.
  2. For Alpine climbing, Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher by Cosley and Houston is a really good book.
  3. Just light surface rust. Not a problem. I wouldn't stay up all night worrying about it.
  4. I'm surprised you're recommending overpriced crap. Wal-Mart has an excellent selection of backpacks at much more reasonable prices. This one includes two water bottles. Remington Big Horn Backpack
  5. Tommy Caldwell would have sunk a bolt next to the crack. Problem solved.
  6. Although the 1's and 2's are heavier, the link cam 0.5 and 0.75 weigh the same as the same size camalots.
  7. ... I'm actually really surprized at the number of climbers that i run into who actually love those things There are so many moving parts - more so than most other cams - and this is the main weakness in cams, in general. The more moving parts you have the more possible fail points. I know climbers with doubles of all of them and they swear by them! panic pieces at best... otherwise ----> When placed properly, link cams are plenty strong. As Dru has demonstrated, any brand cam placed in the back of a pod not in the direction of the fall can fail.
  8. Beacon Rock would be a good test case.
  9. Make sure the rope is going in the bottom of the rappel device and coming out the top (i.e. orient the rappel device so that the path of the rope is straight from anchor, through the belay device, and to your brake hand). And don't hold the rope at a right angle to the path of the rope through the belay device.
  10. tomtom

    HAPE/HACE?

    Old folks don't do so well at high altitude mountaineering. Effects of age and gender on success and death of mountaineers on Mount Everest
  11. You would have called 911 the evening before.
  12. My God, you are brilliant! Did you learn this in school?
  13. SAYS THE NEOLIBERAL ECONOMIST!!!! Whew! Ha-Ha! That is a knee-slapper! Thanks for the funny, Jay. You are a riot. Irony quota filled for the day. Ha. Man, that was good. Hayek laughs at you, too.
  14. Restop bags are gas-impervious, so they don't stink.
  15. Because it was named after Joseph T. Hazard, who made the first ascent of the Kautz glacier to the summit.
  16. Wrong.
  17. Canadians feel their health care is improving but their obesity rate is increasing as well. http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2009/06/09/f-wellness-index-romanow-standard-living.html
  18. The inside link width is 0.37 in, which is 9.4 mm. Might be a little tight.
  19. You can get quicklinks in a variety of sizes. Quicklinks I pulled a rather dainty looking one off a bail anchor one time. These things are equipment so there is some rating and quality control to their design and manufacture. WLL is Working Load Limit.
  20. 42
  21. I have a pair of Asolo Titans which I really liked. I've replaced them with the Scarpa Charmoz. The fit for both are similar to me. Both of these boots are uninsulated and fit semi-automatic crampons (clip in back). La Sportivas don't work for me as they are more crowded in the toe box. But, when buying my next pair of boots, I'll get an all leather boot. Light weight is very seductive, but the synthetic fabric on both these boots just hasn't very durable when scrambling up sharp scree.
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