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tomtom

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Everything posted by tomtom

  1. You would have called 911 the evening before.
  2. My God, you are brilliant! Did you learn this in school?
  3. SAYS THE NEOLIBERAL ECONOMIST!!!! Whew! Ha-Ha! That is a knee-slapper! Thanks for the funny, Jay. You are a riot. Irony quota filled for the day. Ha. Man, that was good. Hayek laughs at you, too.
  4. Restop bags are gas-impervious, so they don't stink.
  5. Because it was named after Joseph T. Hazard, who made the first ascent of the Kautz glacier to the summit.
  6. Canadians feel their health care is improving but their obesity rate is increasing as well. http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2009/06/09/f-wellness-index-romanow-standard-living.html
  7. The inside link width is 0.37 in, which is 9.4 mm. Might be a little tight.
  8. FYI: Metolius has come out with Offset Master Cams.
  9. You can get quicklinks in a variety of sizes. Quicklinks I pulled a rather dainty looking one off a bail anchor one time. These things are equipment so there is some rating and quality control to their design and manufacture. WLL is Working Load Limit.
  10. I have a pair of Asolo Titans which I really liked. I've replaced them with the Scarpa Charmoz. The fit for both are similar to me. Both of these boots are uninsulated and fit semi-automatic crampons (clip in back). La Sportivas don't work for me as they are more crowded in the toe box. But, when buying my next pair of boots, I'll get an all leather boot. Light weight is very seductive, but the synthetic fabric on both these boots just hasn't very durable when scrambling up sharp scree.
  11. Technique. The goal is to get your hips up against the wall and keep as much weight on your feet as possible. If you haven't yet, consider taking a personal lesson or two so that someone can critique your technique and give you a few pointers and drills to improve your skills. Also realize that a woman shaped like a woman (or a guy inflating his spare tire) is going to have to have better technique and isn't going to progress as fast on overhanging terrain as a skinny teenager. Here's a link to Eric Horst's online training: http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm
  12. I think we all agree with this. For example: Gingko does nothing for me. Diamox does a little, but not enough to warrant its use. Dex does more, but I'll still not be doing one day ascents of Rainier. The only thing that does work for me is gradual adaptation to altitude. After spending 5 days in Ouray then 4 days in Telluride one winter, I was motoring around on Rainier the next weekend like it was flat ground. I wish I could afford to do that more often.
  13. Mac is to PC as Sport Climbing is to Trad.
  14. And you think the companies selling you herbs is doing it for *your* best interest?
  15. Looks like you have enough gear to get started. A BD Cliffhanger will soon be useful, depending on route. One important note: Don't use a toothed rope grab like a mini-traxion to support your body weight in a fall. They have been known to strip the sheath and cut the core. They are used with backup for top rope soloing (but don't let any slack develop in the system), but use a Grigri or similar device (or clove hitches) for solo aid. Chris McNamara of Supertopo fame is putting together a how-to book on aid climbing. Here are some of the chapters: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=692927
  16. That's because it was. It was intended for teaching beginning climbers.
  17. This is an interesting question. Helmets are designed based on idealizations of a given activity, and then tested to standards for that activity. Here's a brochure by the gov't on this topic: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/349.pdf Note that cycling and rock climbing are tested to the same standard (Snell N-94), but skiing is different (Snell S-98). http://www.smf.org/standards/n94/n94.html http://www.smf.org/s98.html I don't know enough about the standards to guess if a ski helmet would pass the mountaineering standard, but my personal opinion is that it would be better than going bare headed.
  18. tomtom

    Sport vs Trad

    1) The GED is not available online. 2) The GED doesn't cover the Bible.
  19. I have a pair of Venoms (64cm adze and 50cm hammer) that I use as my alpine set. They work great for me. You're not going to want to hang around on the standard leashes, but normal alpine routes rarely have long stretches of steep ice. Also the adze tool comes with the classic curve pick. The reverse curve pick does stick and clean easier, but the classic pick does work.
  20. 1) Don't drop down the first obvious gully, keep traversing at the top 2) Look for all the cairns 3) If you find yourself actually bushwacking, you've dropped too low.
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