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G-spotter

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Everything posted by G-spotter

  1. The municipal campground in Slocan City. It was there I read the contents of the entire "Coast Mountains" FedEx folder while Fred slept off some Nelson IPA.
  2. It's pretty simple, keeping technical standards low allows has-beens to feel like their accomplishments are somehow significant. If your max is gear 5.11+ when the hardest climbs are gear 5.12, you're not far from the best. But if your max stays gear 5.11+ when the testpieces of the day are gear 5.14 and sport 5.15, you're just another has-been.
  3. and more importantly let some of the smoke out
  4. "the bar" - which one? Need to know this important beta for future trips through there.
  5. I betcha if Frank Smythe was still alive he'd call Poop and Dwayndog nasty names because they cowardly place pro, and don't 4th class everything...
  6. Trip: Hedley Ice - Private Reserve WI3+ 45m FA Date: 12/9/2006 Trip Report: There are some advantages to knowing a meteorologist. Jmace is a meteorologist. On Friday night he told us that a 200 foot thick layer of freezing air would persist in the Hedley area through Saturday when it was +5C and raining in Lillooet and Pemberton. Fuck ya! So Jordan and Steve and Jesse actually woke up at 4 AM and picked me up at 6. Off to Princeton. Somebody said that they emailed Serl about ice climbing this weekend and that he told them a lobotomy would help if you wanted to find climbable ice with this weather Surprisingly enough, we got to Princeton and it was still cold. Actually Landmark Gully was even in at Sumallo Bluffs albeit a bit gray and melted looking. Drove from Princeton to Keremeos scoping for ice. When driving to Rossland to visit snoboy last year, I remembered seeing some ice on the wrong side of the river. We even brought hip waders in case we had to cross the river. But we saw the ice, looked in the Backroads Mapbook, and it turned out that there was a road to the base. Fuckin' A! It turned out that the road crossed native reserve lands. Well, I'm 1/32nd First Nations so I figured it would be Ok if we drove up the the "Private Keep Out" signed road. We did. We did run into a truck with two native guys in it while racking up. They smiled and waved. We smiled and waved. They didn't stop. End of access worry for the day. The hike up Larcan Creek to the route sucks. Jordan, Steve and I got covered in tiny burrs. Jesse dodged it somehow. It took us about an hour to make it to the ice. We roped up. Jesse got the sharp end. 45m of blue plastic goodness. Knowing that it was +7 and raining in Vancouver made it all the sweeter We ended up taking two laps apiece to fill out the day. You could climb this rig at WI3/3+ on the left or chandeliered WI4 on the right, good stuff. I forgot my camera but everyone else remembered theirs. Pics will come. Hiking out we found a better way out via game trails on the north side. No prickle bushes but "approach crampons" might help. Ate dinner at the Greek place in Princeton and drove home. Steve went to some party and got hungover. End of story The name of this thing is "Private Reserve". Seemed appropriate somehow. It went up to +2 in Princeton today Gear Notes: Fat ice takes good screws. Approach Notes: Drive to Keremeos. Take Ashnola Rd. Just before pavement ends go right and follow dirt road through reserve to Larcan Creek. Park and gain 300m on slopes right (north) of drainage then contour on game trails to the ice. 45 minutes to an hour from vehicle. Ice cannot be seen from parking area or most of approach but can be scoped from Hwy 3 about 8 km east of Hedley. LENGTH OF DRIVING: ~600 km LENGTH OF ICE CLIMBED: ~2 laps @ 45m per person
  7. did anyone say GRIT ROOF yet? I heard a flake broke and it is 5.11 now?
  8. Given the reality of climate change, perhaps cactus might be more appropriate than trees. Because in 70 years it will be all cactus here anyhow.
  9. I guess you must have been sunning yourself on the Holodeck yesterday cause we sure didn't see you while we were ice climbing
  10. The only thing that could make this thread any better now would be if it was revealed the cop making the arrest was really Arc or something
  11. E, if it's a double, shouldn't you advertise a little bit more than 6 inches?
  12. I climb barehanded in order to toughen myself for Extreme Alpinism . Gloves are aid.
  13. Arc's Tree Service
  14. This thing when it freezes and if the road gets plowed
  15. GRIT ROOF!!!
  16. I think more people should boycott Smith... all the ones in front of me in the lineup for 5 Gallon Buckets, for instance. I wouldn't mind at all if they protested and boycotted the damn place.
  17. ps kevbone, tape is aid beeeytoch. nice full boxing glove handjob you're sporting.
  18. ya and it's cold as a bitch in the winter cause it's in the shade all day and windblown
  19. i'd like to spray about how pure i am and how if you can't boulder the opening moves you shouldn't do the route, which is what i believe, but the fact is a couple years ago i borrowed a stick clip for 9 Gallon Buckets. yep, i am a sorry excuse for a human. I should have just killed myself and saved the world another 15,000 posts
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