G-spotter

Trip: Fraser Valley - Tailwind (complete) Date: 1/15/2007 Trip Report: So if you look at West Coast Ice there is this route called "Tailwind" that Don Serl and partners tried back on New Years Day in 1979. The 2nd edition just says "WI3 incomplete" whereas if you have the old first edition it says something about hangovers and the difficulty of the route not being what stopped them. I wiill let Don add to this part of the story. Anyways Tailwind seems to form fairly often but not always fat, and it gets a lot of sun cause it faces SE. At this time of day it goes into the shade around noon. I had been wanting to check out this line ever since moving to the Fraser Valley. In 01 or 02 I actually went out to try and solo it. It wasn't really in at the bottom and I ended up aid climbing half a pitch of mossy rock till it started raining then bailing off a slung shrub. So the other day we drove by and checked it out and it looked pretty good. I mentioned to Shaun that it was still listed as "incomplete" in the guidebook and Shaun perked up and said that we had to complete it. Monday. I'll skip work, he'll finish a test at 9:30 AM and we can be climbing ice by 10:30. For sure. And that's pretty much what happened. Shaun was here by quarter to ten and we were on ice by 10:30 AM. In the sun. The ice was wet and plastic and pretty good. So I don't really know where Don and company turned around, I will describe the whole route in order, and Don can indicate his highpoint. P1: Solo 40m of easy WI2 to a protected tree belay on the right. P2: Climb some WI2+ to a roof. Rock gear protects the roof (crack takes camalots #0.75 to 3), move right under roof on thin ice and up a steep step above to a ledge, nuts in a crack for belay or stubbies could be used. 55m WI3 and minor mixed P3: Simulclimb 80m-90m of mostly low angle WI1+ walking (prickle bushes) with short steps of WI2 for flava. P4: 20m of WI2 to 20m of thin and wet, steep with good rests WI3 past a small roof, 20m more of low angle ice to belay. P5: Simulclimb 50m of low angle ice WI1+ to 30m of excellent featured WI2 steps. P6: A steep step (10m of 80 degrees) WI3+ to more rambling ice getting thinner and thinner and finishing with unfrozen moss to trees. 30m WI3+. I actually fell off the 6th pitch while seconding when a big chandelier dinner plated with me attached. My tools were pretty much blunt when I started the climb and are essentially as sharp as river rocks now. Total route length in pitches is about 360m but elevation gain is probably less than 300m. PHOTO ASSAULT! First two pitches overview as seen from the road, with the roof on p2 obvious Shaun climbing p2, before and above the roof Me on p4 Shaun leading the WI2 part of the big simul on p5 Shaun on the WI3+ crux of p6 Route overview from the highway. To descend - walk off to climbers left (west), stay high at first, and descend through cliff bandsand ledges to easier terrain and simple bushwacking. 30-40 minutes back to the highway near the gravel pit east of Rockface Trailer Park. You will see a beautiful, splitter hand crack near the top of the descent. We did not have enough time or energy to link it up with this route... Gear Notes: Gear: 6 stubbies, 4 17cm, camalots 0.75 through 3, small-med. wired nuts optional. Approach Notes: Park at obvious pullout and bushwack down, across, and up 100m to base of route.

do you still have that tight, white lycra in your closet?

did you guys TR that stuff just to the right afterwards?

BBB looks like a dream route! Is this in 50 Favorite Climbs? I seem to recall..

porn is aid

Class 3 terrain is scrambling. You will have to use your hands but not a rope. The regular routes on most volcano slogs do not have Class 3 scrambling.

should you feed... online s peanuts?

that girl has a beard!

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you broke it oly. you broke teh internet!

blowing too much rock will do that to ya

It looks nice and sells hockey. It ain't mean enough. Put some blood in there. Show somebody gettin' hurt. A groin injury. Put a fuckin' map of Florida in the background. Get some tits in!

The only good use for life insurance is for taking out on the people you bump off, so it pays better.

You didn't have an airbag? Maybe you are crazy too. When you point a finger, there's three pointing back at you.

there is supposed to be a lot of snow in squamish right now?

But plenty of trunk space for sheep

WHOAH< you watched Lynn Hill belay!!!!!!111111 omg!

you've been stringing the dude along with steamy IM for 6 months but don't want to meet in person? hmmmm.

Nobody can verify that the speed of light has remained constant over the entire lifespan of the universe, either, but this is best explored in an independent paper rather than being discussed as a potential source of error in an astronomical study of quasars, for instance. Likewise with discussion of hypothetical changes in the decay rate of isotopes wth respect to estimating geological age. Such speculation adds nothing.

Stone tools can be dated by several methods. The ones I remember off the top of my head are: 1) age of sediment layer the tool is found in; 2) any residues (as you mention) or lichen growing on the surface of the tool 3) cosmic rays can change the isotopic composition of the surface layer; comparing the knapped surface to the interior of the tool, or an unknapped to a knapped face, can estimate the age of the knapping; 4) for freshly extruded volcanic obsidian, the age of the rock itself may represent an upper bound Using these and other methods, several independent estimates of age can be made, and the overlap in estimates is usually the best constraint as to actual age.

went out today to do some soloing, route chosen near Hwy 7 was in the sun, got to the base, 1/3 of it fell off (but fortunately missed me), decided i didn't feel like soloing, came home.

The fear of death is the start of control. skull