G-spotter

So he didn't go to Zero Gully again?

gom jabbar?

When in Doubt, Run It Out

rumr, i heard they didn't just snip your tube, they replumbed it up and into the back of your throat so you can give yourself a quick Gu shot?

about $200 a jacket too mass-market. the power of branding!

a boomstick is the long straight log they use to form up the edges of a log boom boom stick crack is a long straight crack Corner Crack has always been 5.7.

Here's the proof...

Dru is talking about a first piece which is not omnidirectional, like a nut. If your first piece is a cam or two nuts in opposition, then you can place it low and it can be used to prevent the pieces above from zippering. If you place the piece low enough and take a good whipper you can generate enough force that it will rip no matter how directional it is. And a low piece will generate serious ropedrag too. All in all if you don't place low pieces you will have a much lower possibility of gear zippering than if you do.

What is she a graduate student of? Basket weaving?

Nope... it's something that is worth $300 a cubic meter right now.

Now on zippering. As was noted this is affected by how closely your belayer stands to the base of the route. But what is not as commonly thought of is that the lower your first piece is, the more likely it is to zipper. wanna test this? put a piece in two feet off the ground and start leading. The rope will make a right angle bend through this first piece pretty much no matter where your belayer stands in relation to the crag. If you fall, this piece will have a huge outwards and upwards pull on it and will probably zipper. So if you want to avoid your gear zippering, avoid a low first piece. Lots of people get this seriously wrong.

you may as well just skip the 10 and go 15, 25, 35 but you know if you have to have a measuring tape out figuring where to put pro in you probably shouldn't be leading...

Actually if you were slinging trees then you were on the 5.6 variation left of "The Edge" that avoids all the good climbing on Corner Crack and then joins into CC at the same ledge as The Edge. The reason it isn't shown in the guidebook is because no one in their right mind would climb this tree-clogged variation if they could be climbing one of the adjacent routes.

It's always been Boomstick except in error in the 92 McLane guide. Do you know what a Boomstick is?

“Climbing K2 or floating the Grand Canyon in an inner tube. There are some things one would rather have done than do.” Ed Abbey

That isn't gonna happen for another week, at least. I gotta kayak on my balcony in anticipation of waterfront!

It's Corner Crack and it's 5.7 not 5.8

"Spy coin" causes major US spy panic :lmao:

Ya there are some fucking huge cornices out there right now.

On the first pitch or when cragging sigle pitch routes, it's whenever you feel like it. But think about this... if you place your first gear at 9-10 feet off the ground, then after you have climbed only about 6 feet more, with rope stretch, you are getting into groundfall territory again anyway and need to place another piece pronto. So you might as well just put in the first piece at 15 feet unless there is a hard move in between 10 and 15 feet... unless you have some other reason. The real point is is that a piece close to the ground doesn't protect you for very long so why not make a couple more moves first, until you get the scary highball feeling. Ideally after you get the first two pieces in you can increase the distance between pieces because with more rope out your potential fall factor is reducing. Say you put in one piece at 12 feet or so and next one around 22, next one around 38, next one around 55, next one at 75, one more around 100 feet... unless there's a specific crux you want a close piece for or you want something in to keep you off a ledge or a bulge or to protect your second or whatever. On a multipitch though, put one piece in as soon as you can off the belay so that you dn't Factor 2 onto the belay. Even if it's like 5 feet up from the belay... then go back to the strategy givn above.

President Bush declared his sympathy for the victims of the Kansas tornado and vowed that the US government will increase funding for the War Against Nature. Only when Nature has been totally destroyed and subjugated will Americans be safe.

And your little dog too!

Extremo?