fern

I have a few more details but I don't wish to share publically right now. I have spent some time with friends this afternoon and we are all very sad and lost for words. This is an enormous blow. Details are spare and the news has not yet travelled to all close friends and family, many are away on climbing trips themselves.

I just got an email from Lena forwarded from Kai. they are presumed buried. perhaps there will be a miracle but it seems unlikely.

to Bill's list I would add: - over the neck can go horribly wrong if you are not careful - over your foot - tie loose bighted overhand knots every 20' or so and clip them off to the side. (overhand == easily recognized as NOT being somebody's clip-in which would be a fig8 or clove hitch) you can practice a lot of this stuff cragging before you get on a multi-pitch obviously.

shit. Jolly John is a good friend and one of the best people I know. This is pretty upsetting.

pin scars get bigger from taking pins OUT and ehmmic didn't ... so there

when I'm a passenger and the driver has to circulate around the whole parking lot to find the best spot rather than just parking in the first one available

I'd rather see all 20 or 60 or 200 people contained at one crag than have them split into groups and spread out. Once your group size is greater than about 6-8 people it doesn't matter how many more people you add, you have already achieved the distinction of being a BIG GROUP. I'd rather there was just one BIG GROUP at one crag rather than 5 of them spread around the whole area.

"studies have shown" that 3 pieces of 1" webbing collected together for a rappel station are strong enough no matter how old and crusty they are. This was published in a book called "Playing It Safe". regular bolt stations threaded with webbing for rappel are suck. If you are planning to install one gimme a call and I will mail you the extra $5 to do the absolute minimum upgrade and attach two quicklinks.

since Dru is away I am compelled to fill in: [dru] ALL tricam placements are BOMBER man. [/dru]

I think we have a pretty good idea.

quote:"He was staring intently up at the slope behind me when a thunderous BOOM shocked the silence. I looked back uphill where I could see a massive face breaking away about 300-500 feet above. This slope had been shielded from our view by a break in the ridge." maybe a map would have helped for understanding the surrounding terrain and exposure.

I am curious to know more about this route beyond what is in the red CAG.

my memories of ice and rock falls and avalanches which came close to chopping me have no soundtrack at all. I've heard whoomphs and clicks and whirrs but the few times I was seriously threatened the warning was never a loud noise ... I just remember quiet, which is sorta scary itself.

I climb with lots of married or already hooked up guys. It's only an issue if you make it one. I agree with the thread title.

name the movie

this was a good troll iaiaiaian

I woulda thought the whack M.C.s are the ones with several colourful 1" webbing macrame sausages hanging off their harness at all times ... even in the gym ... or are they the ones with their belay card hanging off their harness at the crag? ... I get so confused

Lee Valley tools

man I suck at image searching cuz I go looking for a picture of a bitchin' He-Man airbrushed '70s black van and all I get are kittens and puppies

I got 7/12 too. I wonder what the scores would be for a similar tests about other countries' governments.

I've seen an oval that had the gate pulled out in a fall. overall you don't hear of too many accidents resulting from gear failure rather than human error (reading ANAM etc), but probably most gear failures are from carabiners breaking, likely in open-gate or crossloaded circumstances. This is my impression but I have not read stats or studies to confirm it. If you know the short-comings of your gear and use it appropriately it's all strong enough. Ovals have a number of disadvantages compared to more modern shapes, but they work fine if you take care.

the dirty chiminee is the goods and no mistake

reads like another of Dru's avatars to me