telemarker

By God it is! Prolly flew up from Texas or somewheres.

It sure does...and that's one king sized pendulum, eh?

I mean, c'mon! I know The Nose is a popular route, but give me a damn break! I think we need to petition for a permit system soon.

Attach the gri-gri to your locker as normal, then wrap some tape around the end of the biner nearest the belay loop. This will keep it from cross loading. Or, DMM sells a plastic sleeve that fits over the carabiner to keep it from rotating.

Get a belayer you loner!

On which route is this amazing looking pitch found? I was guessing Muir Wall???

Yet another freaking sweet block of weather coming, one year later!: SNOW LEVELS 35-5000 ft N, 4-6000 ft S early Thur 4-6000 ft N, 5-7000 ft S late Thur 3-5000 ft N, 45-6000 ft S early Fri 4-6000 ft N, 6-8000 ft S late Fri 7-9000 ft N, 8-10,000 ft S early Sat 6-8000 ft N, 8-10,000 ft S late Sat

[quote I apply that approach to all placements at any level, aid or free. Will nuts set hard under body weight, sure, but how easily the come out is still very much a function of you placement skills regardless of the level of difficulty... Frankly when I'm in the middle of my lead aiding or free climbing, I could care less how "easily" it comes out, I just want it to hold my ass in a fall, and if it's a little reluctant in coming out, I take that as a sign that I used the right nut in the right placement.

Sure, if you're placeing A1 nuts, but even body weight can set a nut pretty well. But if your stoppers become more sketch or flared, best bounce test them before committing, which may cement them in. Further, you better not be yarding up full force when cleaning my HB's and RP's. Use your hammer for a simple tap-tap, and it's out.

Actually, you can traverse in over easy 5th ground from the south via the slanting 5.7 crack near the start of the Bale/Kramer to get to the 2nd pitch of Regular Route. I'll grant you, getting to that pitch probably doesn't warrant that, but it is possible. One can also hike to the 3rd pitch Reg Route 5.8 stemming pitch I mentioned easily enough over 3rd class ledges, from the north side of Careno Crag, bypassing the 1st 5.10b pitch.

Other Leavenworth honorable mentions: P2 Reg Route Careno: 5.7 easy thin hands workout; p3 Reg Route Dbl Cracks: 5.8 stemming workout; The Arch: 5.8 undercling, foot smearing workout; Forking Crack: 5.9 balancy trust your feet workout after some fun hands; P1 Rambling Man: 5.9 chimney workout; P3 Bale/Kramer Careno: 5.10 comprehensive Face, Fingers, Hands, Fist workshop all in one short crack pitch; Pearly Gates: 5.10 off fingers workout to start, then chimney moves to hands; Finally, Damnation Crack: What DON'T you do on this crack?

Check your PM's re: Brass Nuts. Thanks!

Kyle and I don't need P-Bob to tell us something that's already painfully obvious!

Thanks. Truly a great day. to inversions, at least early season ones. Thanks Gary. Looks like the rope did get a little twisted aruond on Kyle. We ilke climbing with a little extra drag sometimes. If you get on this route, at the top of the 3rd pitch, be sure to tie in to the panties instead of the chain anchor for extra hardman points.

Climb: Index-Green Dragon Date of Climb: 11/19/2005 Trip Report: To piggy back off Mister E's day at Index, Kyle Flick, Travis, Ed and I decided to climb the Upper Wall. This would be my first trip to Index, so Kyle and I chose Green Dragon, while Travis and Ed climbed Town Crier. Green Dragon is a great climb to practice some low commitment hooking and cam hooking, all of which is done over excellent gear. GD's a great climb, especially climbing in the inversion, perfect temps, great views cool exposure, especially off the belay on the 4th pitch. A few photos: Kyle leading pitch one: Me from the start of pitch 2 Ed Hobbick on Town Crier Kyle starting his lead of pitch 3. One could easily climb this flake at 5.8 or so for 30 feet, if you're not too lazy to put on climbing shoes. Kyle jugging pitch 4. There's a cool hook move just above that red carabiner to reach the next bolt. It's in a shallow pocket so it makes you think as you're stepping up. Kyle starting pitch 5 Gear Notes: HB Offsets are very useful. I placed probably three cams on pitch 2, the rest being offset nuts and RP's, and cam hooks. Used the Leeper Logan Wide twice on the 4th pitch, plus various cam hooks again. Approach Notes: Easy trail.

Yeah, right! But if you have some extra you can sell, let me know. Thanks! John

Washington's hidden gem: Bridgeport. Brush up on your Espanol, primo.

Besides the gold standard: OE800. Something a bit more sophisticated, help take the edge off, facilitate sleep...

Top of Aasgard Pass Sentinal

A lot of great responses, thanks! My question is if a hammock is a such a crappy way to spend the night on a wall, how/why do they keep selling the thing?

I'm planning on a wall with ample bivy ledges, but some are comfortable for one person, cramped with two. So, I'd like to bring along a single ledge, but since I don't have the cash for a double, I'm looking at getting a single or a hammock design. In your bigwall experience which is the best way to go: 1) Pika Parasite Hammock (attractive because of the price) 2) The Fish One Night Stand 3) Fish Econoledge I'm leaning towards the Pika, since the Fish ledges are $100.00 to 175.00 more. I can use the Pika until I can pony up for a double ledge and fly. Thoughts on the hammock style "ledges"? Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

I see Rodden sending it free ground up in one push BEFORE Caldwell, since from what I've heard of some of the cracks seem to require more finesse and smaller fingers than brute strength.

How's this related to climbing? I'll be a pissed off climber tomorrow, that's how.

One of the better trad leads you can do is at The Pinnacles: Vertigo. Also, the 2nd pitch of Lightning Crack makes one wonder about the integrity of your cams in shallow swauk sandstone. From Wenatchee, though, it's very difficult to stop at The Pinnacles when you can drive 15 more miles to bullet-proof granite, and not have to pay to climb.

How many screamers will you take on an aid climb in the A2+ to A3 range?