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For Gawd sakes, someone get this guy some new thermals!

Sounds good, clear it with the chief first!

Just wanted to throw this back out atcha! Gonna be some nice weather for cragging if you're not headed out in the alpine. I'm open to any other areas within Leavenworth area, though CR has the best routes for the access.

Here are a few pics that may help: Here's a pic of Ade Miller cruising the last pitch. the sharp fin of rock in the foreground is the aforementioned undercling. the pitch continues up and left up a low angled ramp. The pitch ends between two pillars, and from Ade's vantage point, you can look down onto triple couloir's final 3rd couloir looking over Ade's left shoulder. Kyle Flick finishing up the traverse over to the scruffy gulley leading to the final easy slabs to the summit.

So...to get back on topic...anyone interested in Castle Rock this sunday?????? Move fast, get in as many routes as possible. Start on some of the stuff on lower Castle, work our way up...

For laps on crux crack of Angel itself, slip/slide up the crack to the horn, sling the horn with runner and biner, do laps till bored or burned out, give the rope a flip to retrieve the sling and biner.

Yep. Just barely. Use the chain anchor up and left of the tower on the face, not the ones on the tower itself.

It's funny on most of the TR's I've read about this route, no one ever mentions the undercling moves of the last pitch of the fin as described in the Nelson guide as pitch 12. It's the only way I've been up the fin (4 times), exactly as described, with the undercling pitch mostly lichenated with clean spots for your feet only, then a long traverse right to the finishing loose gully. The rule for the fin seems to be there are tons of variations for this feature that work.

Anyone up for some craggin' at castle rock Sunday? give me a shout: 509-665-9550 or PM. Temps look to be about perfect for sunday.

I agree on both counts. Did you heave on that one loose pillar on that funky downclimb before the "5.9" crack after the gendarme? It gets your attention real quick. I bet the ice cliff glacier will become an annual pocket snowfield that will slide off in late spring at some point in the near future. Sad, eh?

Thanks! And thanks for letting me pilfer your photo. You're right about the unnecessary mileage around this time of year. But from the base, it just looks so easy from Mtnrs. basin to the base of the route, straight up a morain, vs. sidehill forever via goat pass... More panoramic fun, from the summit looking Noreast:

I'd recommend the Mtnrs. creek approach over the Ingalls Lake, assuming you can shuttle between the two trailheads. You could probably cut an hour off the approach via Mtnrs. creek. More direct as well. Good luck!

Climb: Mt. Stuart-Complete North Ridge Date of Climb: 9/3/2006 Trip Report: It is said The Nose of El Cap in a day is the best day of climbing you can do. After climbing the complete N. Ridge of Stuart on Sunday, it may be the best day of climbing you can do in Washington. Okay, I know there are tons of routes I haven't touched yet. But this route has a lot to offer. Alpine setting, solid rock, excellent pro, knife-edge climbing. After climbing this, it reminds me of the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in rock quality and position. The periodic explosions of the icefall add to the wildness of the setting. Will the icecliff calve off completely at some point, like the Slesse glacier? Our day started at 3.30am at the Ingalls Lk. TH, an 8.30am start on the ridge, 4pm summit, and a 9pm return to the car. The descent was just freaking monotonous and endless, and Longs Pass, well, is Longs Pass. Like other TR's I've read about this route, we belayed only the first few pitches, then simuled to the Gendarme, belayed the Gendarme then simuled to the summit. This photo from Alpinfox gives an excellent illustration of the entirety of the north ridge. Ingalls area and Rainier from Goat Pass Goat Pass Lower Ridge Steve Tift heading up first pitch. The notch of the 1/2 ridge. Feeling good about the opportunity to descend the Cascadian. Parting shot from somewhere on Longs f-ing Pass Gear Notes: Light rack to 3 inches Approach Notes: No ice axe or poons required from Goat Pass to ridge start.

Yes, that is what I was talking about: no snow travel, and no significant detouring. I think it took an hour or so from goat pass to the base of the ridge. The goat pass approach is really nice and only a couple hours longer than mtnr creek; I would definitely recommend it. thanks!

Yeah, I really wasn't asking about the descent...I'm just asking is there a large deviation or elevation loss to get below the snow/ice from goat pass in order to access the start of the lower ridge. (yeah, I know Mtnrs. creek access is quicker, but car shuttling isn't my option).

Are crampons and axe needed to access the lower ridge via goat pass?

Pe El. Have they had Egg Dayz there yet this year? Not to be missed! Second only to Morton's Loggers Jubilee.

I want to hear about the true crux of your climb...posting pictures in gallery. Your actually integrating them into your TR will be like a 5.11 slab move. Anyway, nice pics, though the summit shot....hmmmm...where are the nughugger shorts?

Slide a #5 camalot up as a toprope through the upper O/W, small gear near the top of the o/w, belay your partner up, put #5 back into your pack for the rest of the climb. Consider foregoing the #5 since it's mostly low-angled with good foot holds for the right side.

Anyone up for it? PM or call: 509-665-9550. I gots lots of Idears.

There are three new bolts on the uppper part of p.1 (Freedom or Death route I think), with some fun 5.9 climbing, maybe a move of 5.10, the entire pitch is well protected.

Climb: Liberty Bell-Liberty Crack Date of Climb: 8/12/2006 Trip Report: Robbie wanted to cut his aid climbing teeth on Liberty Crack, so we gave 'er a go. Looking down pitch one. Keep your aider stowed away. There's good free climbing in between some french free on this pitch. Beware the knifeblade sticking 3/4 of the way out. East face. It stayed cool, almost chilly the entire time. Perfect for climbing. Robbie heading up to the lithuanian lip. This was a great first time aid experience for him. Ah, the infamous backstep move at the lip. An old ringed lost arrow at one of the pitches. Robbie finishing off the last of the aid. Nice day's work. The only note I want to add is to run the rope a full 60m from the rotten block to a nice ledge with a tree just before the easy chimney, which combines a couple pitches. Gear Notes: Med rack to 3.5 inches Approach Notes: Easy hike.

Okay, well Sunday then dammit! Still looking to get out for a good day of cragging. Get lots of pitches in, check out new areas up the icicle I know about or scour old ones, doesn't matter.

C'mon, don't make me grovel! There has to be someone who needs to crag tomorrah!

Unexpected partner failure...looking to get out tomorrow, Saturday. Had Iconoclast/OS linkup in mind but can crag too, so whatever...PM or phone 509-665-9550