telemarker

Looking for a partner for Vantage on Saturday. Temps seem to be about right, mid 90's. Sunshine Wall seems appropriate. No early starts here. If interested, meet me at the parking lot around noonish.

Thanks. Nice work as well! Quite a route. I agree what they're saying about the chimneys being well protected but quite the bearcat. I had no qualms yarding my way through them.

how does one post larger pictures in a trip report?

Larger picture showing the other party just left of the roof.

Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-West Face Date of Climb: 7/29/2005 Trip Report: Kyle Flick and climbed this outstanding route last Saturday. We left Cashmere at 3.30am, were hiking by 4.15am. We reached the base and were climbing by 9am thereabouts, and topped out at 5pm, 8 hours on route. I don't have too much more to add, other than the following points I wasn't able to gather from past TR's: 1. If you're plannign on doing this route, use Michael Layton and Skyclimb's TR from last year. Layton's points and gear recommendation are spot on. Plus, it's a good read. 2. Going by the Nelson guide, I was able to combine pitches 1 (short 5.10+ crack), 2 (5.7 chimney to pedestal top) and 3 (EXCELLENT corner crack to double cracks) into one long 200 foot pitch. The last part of this pitch had some funky manteling onto gravel and grass. A bit spooky. 3. Since Kyle and I are free climbing duds, I direct aided most of the 5.11 long crack, while Kyle jugged it. Kyle then direct aided the traversing under the roof pitch. This made it go by really quickly. 4. You'll never forget the feeling of hanging out underneath that enormous roof. No picture does it justice. 5. The 5.9+ corner crack is really nice. Easy aid at the top. 6. The 5.9(?) chimney is really as bad as Layton describes: "It will utterly destroy you." Not only that, but there are basically three chimneys of similar difficulty. 7. Easy simul-climbing for the last 400' or so. 8. Lotsa ticks. I pulled numerous off my rope and pant legs. 9. This is THE climb to do in the middle of a swealtering summer. We were climbing all day in the shade, in nice cool temps, and didn't have direct sun until the last scrambling pitch. Some pictuers: If you look closely, there is a party of three climbers just left of the roof. They had caught up with us when we were just finishing off the long 5.11 pitch. We thought we would be holding them up for the rest of the climb. However, they got bogged down somehow. The last we saw of them when we were on the west side of Colchuck Lake, they were just finishing the chimney pitch. They must've been benighted. The Great Roof Flick cleaning the pitch. Aiding easily out from underneath the roof. The belay under the roof is fixed with two fixed stoppers and two pins. The obligatory shot of Stuart. Fear this chimney. It actually has a good hand crack most of the way and protects really well, it's just the exposure when trying to get into it. Flick finishing up. Gear Notes: Use Layton's recommendation if you don't climb 5.11 alpine trad. We found two 3.5 camalots very helpful. Approach Notes: Take the left-hand gully for the approach, which is shorter than hiker's right.

This is a long shot but...Needed: A climbing partner for some multi-pitching in the Sandia mtns. I'll be in Albuquerque 8-12 to 8-17 (visiting in-laws). I mean, for God sakes, I REALLY need someone to respond to this, really. PM me or post response, I don't care...

Ben, how were you able to put the picture in the post?

Shit. How do you put a picture in a post, dammit?

This is the view we had of Minuteman headwall from Liberty Crack last Saturday. Flick and I attempted this two years ago. Unfinished business.

Climb: LIberty Bell-LCIAD Date of Climb: 7/9/2005 Trip Report: I know, I know. Liberty Crack TR's are about as commonplace as the W. Ridge of Prusik, among others. And doing it in a day doesn't even raise eyebrows. So, I'll post a few pics of mine and Kyle Flick's one day climb of Lib Crack. Basics: Started in Wenatchee at 2.30am, got to the base of the route by 6am, and was on route by 6.30am, topping out by 5.30pm. Not blazing by any means, but satisfying for a couple aid and free climbing gumbies that we are. Here's what I found out about the route that I didn't glean from prior TR's. The first pitch is the trickiest aid all told, though Kyle had no problem. The first pin encountered on the first pitch flexes under body weight. I was able to move it back and forth with my fingers while cleaning. The third pitch hook move is easily skipped by top stepping to a solid yellow alien placement. Being 6'1" and having a +6 inch ape index helps too. The rotten block pitch is the shittiest pitch, leading or following all told. After the rotten block pitch, I was able to climb a full rope length to pitch 8 (from the "Clint" topo), bypassing pitch 7, and the alternative higher belay. Kyle aiding up a wet first pitch. Flick jugging Lith Lip pitch. Jug on P. Three The top of pitch 5, long sustained stemming corner. Pitch 10 nice corner pitch. Alpinedreamer and partner topping out on NW Corner, NEWS. View from the top. Gear Notes: Rope 'n Rack.

Even though there's a lot of tilt in this image, it's a nice profile of the ridgeline from the East perspective.

Trogdor, You're better off assuming it's gonna be icey, steep and a shitty boulder strewn runout when descending the backside of Dragontail. Low snow year too, so expect 35 degree hard ice, and be pleasantly surprised when you find out you can glissade on soft snow. But at least be prepared. Keep in mind the dickweed last year who spent the night on the summit of D-tail in Tevas and nearly froze his toes....

Really, it's quite nice despite the burns. Do it in the fall, though, as the tamaraks are blazing yellow. Either way, better hike it now before they start drilling.

Yeah, in fact the entire Icicle Canyon, including the Stuart Range and enchantments, are a complete and utter waste land. Best to stay away. There's better hiking elsewhere.

Yep. It's a great vertical hand crack unfortunately only bout 20 feet, to where it gets almost horizontal.

I spied that at the Glass Eye anchor a couple weeks ago. It crosses over that route, in fact, you can unnecessarily clip the bolt as you continue up the Glass Eye crack. The route continues up over mixed, steep ground.

I bet people will still lower off the single bolt and chain to avoid the 3rd class downclimb.

Oh...I thought it had something to do with principle, bolting next to a good crack....

Since we're on the subject of Alphabet Rock...someone took one of the hangars (and the accompanying chain) at the top of Meatgrinder. Really no big deal, since there's still one hangar and beefy chain, alongside a nice crack to put a second piece. In fact, one could easily set up a gear anchor without using the fixed anchor, so why would this person steal only one of the hangars/chain?

A couple Bob's Wall images from a couple weeks ago...

Condorphamine Addiction. You MIGHT, just MIGHT fall a foot or so between bolts.

Fuckin' A, Tyree. What does the "A" mean, anyway?

I want to know how much foul language has aided in your climbing? What has been the most effective string of colorful language you've put together? I find that if I fire off too many invectives I end up shocking my belayer and other climbers within shouting distance. Too few, and I'm left uninspired. Has anyone found a happy medium in cussing, which allows you to get through the crux, or slog the last few hundred meters to the summit?

Better is to clip the pin at teh base of the pedestal, then bypass it down low by traversing around it on hollow flakes, but easy climbing. That way, you avoid the short pain in the ass "pitch" from the top of the pedestal to the base of the headwall crack. Much quicker and less rope drag too.