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Climb: Icicle-8 Mile Buttress to Icicle Ridge Date of Climb: 9/6/2004 Trip Report: Kyle Flick and I viewed 8 Mile Buttress from Hook Creek last week and decided it might be interesting to climb the buttress all the way to the Icicle Ridge crest, and hike back to the Icicle Ridge TH near Leavenworth to make it a loop. The goal was simple: Climb Mr. Tremendous, and just keep going. We started out on the excellent two pitches of Mr. Tremendous. If you're headed up there to climb the Tree Route, you should skip it and climb Mr. Tremendous. The first pitch has fun moves with mixed pro, 5.9. And the second pitch is a short cruxy bulge move, well protected at 5.10b. From the top, we hiked up to Smorgasbord area, and climbed Rambling Man. It's a great, clean route with a cool chimney on the first pitch that felt 5.8, and protected well. The second pitch has a short roof move off the belay at 5.10, bolt protected, which leads to fun face and crack climbing above for a 150 foot pitch. From the top, we moved along 4th class terrain to a 120 foot slab pitch. Topping out on the slab, there is much more to climb, but we didn't have enough time. The scramble to the ridge crest is scenic, with just a bit of bushwacking. Nice views of Hook and Rat Creek Drainages, Mt. Stuart, Dragontail. The hike down Icicle Ridge trail takes forever from the top of the buttress, but you get cool looks down into Tumwater Canyon. Smorgasbord Crag Kyle leading the 1st pitch. Can't tell much from this crappy photo, sorry. Above Smorgasbord on 4th class terrain. Approaching the slab on upper right corner. Looking down from the top of the slab. Hook Creek and Rat Creek Drainages Gear Notes: Medium rack, one 60m rope. Approach Notes: Short hike right off the road.

Climb: Hook Creek Area, Icicle.-Mole north face, Puff Majic Dragon, Edward's Peak Date of Climb: 8/29/2004 Trip Report: Kyle Flick and I decided to wyle away a beautiful Sunday afternoon slogging up hook creek, climbing the north face of the Mole, rapping the south side, climbing the arete of Puff the Majic Dragon, and ending up following the west ridge of Edward's Peak. Pretty unremarkable, straightforward climbing in an incredible setting. Check out the pictures for details. We started from the pull-out by Alphabet Rock at 4.45am, hiking the nice trail up past Yellowjacket Tower, into the schwack to access Hook Creek. Three hours later, we were at the base of the Mole's north face. This face was two, 200 foot pitches of 5.7 climbing with hummocks and nice hand jams, and great pro. Rapping down the south side, we then went to the base of Puff. Puff's north ridge was mid fifth at most and pretty unremarkable. Topping out and looking down the W. face, we realized we should've climbed the 3 pitch dihedral on the W. face. Oh well, next time. The last two pitches followed a solid, scenic ridge that Kyle dubbed Edward's Peak that led from the top of Puff to Edwards Mesa. Back to the car by 6.30pm. If you're headed up there this fall, there's no water in hook creek, however, there are some stagnant pools on the mesa itself. Kyle starting the first pitch of n.f. of the Mole. View from the nice ledge belay on the n.f. View down to hook creek from the top. Top of Puff, looking down Rat Creek. 2nd pitch of Edward's Peak ridge. Gear Notes: Light rack, one 60m rope. Approach Notes: Typical eastside bushwack.

Yeah, that's quite a story Snowbyrd. You're definitely coming from a different perspective. My BIGGEST fear is getting killed climbing either before the child is born or within the first 4 to 5 years, when critical bonding occurs between parent and child. It would be incredibly selfish of me should my son/daughter have to get to know dad by looking at his pictures. And they would probably really resent climbing as an endeavor. If that fear has gravitated from the back of my mind to my present consciousness on lead, for example (when it usually happens lately)then I find my movements become more tentative and stiff. It sucks, but there must be some sort of uncontrollable instinct telling me to be more cautious. But I've been of the opinion that being more cautious can cause accidents just as much as hubris. But now it's ridiculous. I had to use my knee in an very ungraceful porpoise-like move the other day just to get onto Saber ledge on Castle Rock when leading the 1st pitch of Canary. I haven't done that since the first time I lead it three years ago. Little mind games like that are cropping up on my leads, and it's a bit annoying, but I understand what's happening.

On Sunday, Kyle Flick and I linked up the north face the Mole, Puff the Magic Dragon, and Edward's Peak.

Minx, My wife and I are expecting our first child, and I find your post very much of interest to me. Were/are you mostly a trad climber or sport? And how did it "ruin" you as a climber? It sounds like you were more ambitious pre-parenthood. Did this mean you did a bit more adventure climbing on looser,dirtier rock, and now you're "reduced" to cragging more? Myself, I'm finding that I'm taking a bit more time and being more mindful of small things, like tying my figger 8's, readying my raps, and running it out on an alpine climb. Not that I wasn't taking notice of the small things before our pregnancy, but now I REALLY pay attention, instead of joking and talking while I'm tying in, for example. Just thought I'd add my two bits....

All really good information. Juan, how much climbing did you do when your first child was born? And how much did you do with each subsequent child?

Thanks so much Sobo! Though I'm reluctant to admit it, I can already tell my climbing is different now that there's a baby on the way.

Any fathers/climbers know the details of life insurance and climbing? Specifically, will regular, term life insurance cover roped activities? If not, what provision or ryder did you have to add to get climbing covered in your policy? I'm under the impression that most recreational activities requiring a rope are not covered. This question only just became relevant for me, as my wife and I are expecting our first. Any information would be helpful to me. Thanks.

Can anyone inform me of any good cragging areas around the Taos area, or perhaps some multi-pitch climbs as well. I'm familiar with the areas in S. Utah, but only interested in areas near and around Taos. Thanks!

Nice job guys. That's a cool looking line. Good talking with you in the parking lot. We passed a couple of young guys sitting on the side of the trail just below the lake. Was that Kenford and Paco? We zipped past and didn't realize one was injured. We would have offered to carry some of his load down to the lot. Anyway, congratulations!

That is THE Kyle Flick to whom I refer.

Muy buenos dias Juan, We did see a guy and girl starting the route just as we reached the base of our climb. We saw them complete the first pitch, but didn't hear or see them after that, and assumed they bailed.

Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-N.W. Buttress Date of Climb: 6/27/2004 Trip Report: Kyle, Steve and I made a spontaneous decision to climb Colchuck Balanced Rock by way of the NW Buttress. The route lies on the pillar below the main gully, and below the normal aid route. The pillar featured many options, ours being 5.8 to 5.9 in four pitches to reach the top of the pillar. A continuation of the NW Buttress on the main wall looked dangerous, as a large portion of the N. buttress sheared off, leaving big, sharp hanging flakes and death blocks. We decided to traverse north to a grassy gully and scrambled along the N. Ridge to the summit. It's an interesting climb, a bit loose, but a nice alternative to those wanting to climb CBR, but don't aid climb, but neither want to hike up the south shoulder. Gear Notes: Small rack, to 3 inches. Approach Notes: Great approach, many cragging opportunities along the way.

We skirted below the "hollow" Beckey talks about and is clearly visible in his photo, and I led a long, 200 foot slab crack to the NW Ridge. Then made two, upward, north trending traverse pitches to the western edge of the N. face. Also, there are two chockstones, with one being between the Mole and Duolith, and the larger one further down the gully (west).

The north face cracks went at 5.7-5.8 fun and safe for 400 feet. You could start at the base of the N. face and add another 100 feet.

Climb: The Mole-North Face via the West Face Date of Climb: 6/18/2004 Trip Report: My friend Ed and I climbed The Mole Friday, in a one day grunt up Hook Creek. We started at 5.30am from Aphabet Rock pull-out, and was able to reach Edward's Plateau by 10.30am. After a two hour snooze on the plateau (it's quite a place!) we checked out the S. face route, and decided to do something a little different. We hiked down Rat Creek a few hundred feet, to just below the giant chockstone and started up the West Face, right beside the 5.12 crack shown in the Beckey Guide. Apart from the odd loose block, there was fine climbing on slab cracks trending north, with the 3rd pitch being the best, 200 feet on great hand jams that crested the Northwest Buttress. We got pinched out about 3 pitches up, so I made two traversing pitches to the North Face. A 50 meter rappel brought us to a ledge below the last 400 feet of the North Face. Endless hand jamming on two 200 foot pitches brought us to the summit. Two double rope raps off the S. face route and we were hiking back to Yellowjacket Tower, which we made be nightfall. The slabs below the tower are nasty in the dark, so we bivied there and skampered down in the morning. Gear Notes: Any gear you feel like hauling up a few thousand feet. You only need one 60 meter rope for the S. Face raps. Approach Notes: Great trail up to Yellowjacket Tower, minimal bushwacking around to the drainage, straightforward hike up to Edward's Plateau.

Naw. Took a fall just above the first roof, but sent the rest of the route. I'll be climbing it tomorrow after work, though. Are you in town?

Brass Balls rocks! The moves, the gear, position. The best pitch of climbing I've done at Castle Rock yet.

Anyone interested in getting a full day, this Friday,around the Leavenworth area. Perhaps a day at Castle Rock, Snow Creek Wall or some adventure climbing around the 8-mile buttress area. Drop me a PM or phone: 509-264-3739.

Actually, wrong phone number. Right number is 509-264-3739.

Looking to do an early climb of outer space, snow creek wall this Friday 3-26 or Sunday, 3-28. Looks dry to me, just saw it yesterday. I've climbed it a number of times in the last two years. Or, Mary Jane Dihedral could be an option too. I'd be happy to do all the leading. Send me a PM or call me: 509-264-3742. My climbing friends are still skiing and not thinking about rock yet. I live in Wenatchee. Friday works best.

I get this Friday off, and know Castle Rock is dry. If anyone has all day to climb, PM me. I'd like to get a bunch of pitches in, starting on lower, then do routes on upper castle. Be nice to get 10 pitches in or more if possible. I'll lead, or share, or whatever. I just can't let a nice spring day-off get by without climbing.

Catbirdseat, There's a helluva lot more to the Icicle than climbing. Apparently you've never been on the north side of Cashmere hiking in the fall amongst the golden larches and tundra. It's a pristine, beautiful area that would be spoiled by noise, trucks, tunnell boars, etc...

Question here...why wouldn't it be preferable to use tied webbing for quick draws, instead of sewn runners?? The reason I ask is wouldn't the knot of a tied runner absorb more of the force of a fall as it cinches tight, therefore putting less force on the gear, assuming a trad lead? Of course, there's always the risk of the tied runner coming untied. However, wouldn't the tied runner work somewhat like a screamer in absorbing the fall as the knot cinches under load?

Greg, In fact, higher up it appears it's even more dry, since there's less shade. Bathtub dome, even Castle rock. I ran up the trail and most of upper castle is dry.