telemarker

Drenched lichen and moss and swirling clouds made the pitch feel much more difficult. But in dry conditions, it probably would be fun with the exposed step across below the final roof.

Yep. Totally agree. Don't forget the ticks too.

I propose a tram, but this may be a long shot since we weren't able to get a big hole bored into Mt. Cashmere.

I agree! Anyone and everyone should stay the hell away from hook and rat creeks for their own mental health. Heli approach is THE only viable option.

I'd disagree on the size pro needed. Future suckahs should only take pro up to 3 inches, or blue camalot. Extras in the two inch range. We had one 3.5 camalot and I think Kyle placed it once at a belay stance. I never found occasion to place it at all. Pressure chamber pitch takes nuts very nicely, and lots of 2 inch gear. BTW, I bootied five stoppers, three of which sported nice wiregate biners still attached. Muchos denkus!

I hope for a speedy recovery as well... For the hike I can think of other icicle crags infinitely more interesting and probably better teaching venues than YJT. From the road to YJT and hook creek turnoff it's the shittiest part of the whole hike, even taking into account the shwack up hook creek.

How 'bout this little psych job on Colchuck Balanced Rock?

You'd think our inner ravens would have known chelan county protocol for the pinnacles.

Last year a friend and I went there for some after work cragging, when it was still closed in the spring. The orchardists next door pointed us out, and a sheriff's deputy arrived shortly after. We were 1/2 way up baseball nut with the deputy blaring away on his bullhorn, DESCEND IMMEDIATELY. That was the 2nd time it happened to us. Totally unnecessary spectacle. Wouldn't want to open the pinnacles in March, God forbid.

Anyone know when this ends?

What methods have you used to get your dry-as-hell rope to feel somewhat new again? I know there are dry treatments out there for $$$, but are there some home-grown treatments you've found to work well?

Add in about a dozen ticks each to top off the day.

We were on bridge creek wall. You guys must noy have been too far away.

Climb: Icicle Canyon-Mostly Dirt Date of Climb: 4/23/2006 Trip Report: A great day in the Icicle, worth sharing a few pics. Tons of people down low, so we headed up high. Gear Notes: A good attitude. Approach Notes: An even better attitude.

Anyone know what happened? Three ambulances, bunch of Chelan Co. rescue workers. Looked to be at the base of R & D Route.

Expect to lose a few pints for a day's climbing...

Climb: Castle Rock-Various Date of Climb: 3/25/2006 Trip Report: Spring is definitely here. Saturday was a great day. We were there way too early, to offset a shorter day. That was us, Ron, on Idiot's Delight. Kyle Flick started up Smut (partial aid/free), then we headed over to Idiot's Delight. I have rarely been able to lead Idiot's without a ton of drag, and it was no exception this time. It didn't help that Kyle pulled up short of where I normally like the belay for this route. Anyway, still a fun route with some smeary moves on still wet rock. We then headed logger's ledge to Crack of Doom, S. Face of Jello Tower, and finally Damnation Crack. Ya gotta love Spring in the Leavenworth canyons! Enjoy the total photo onslaught! Flick on Idiot's: Me on Crack 'O Doom. 5.8? 5.9? 5.10b? 5.9 seems fair. Pumpy start to Damnation. Slick but thankfully short. Flick Fist Jamming Kyle has been known to crimp Chimney action Top of Damnation Gear Notes: Standard Rack Approach Notes: N/A

Yes sir, that is correct.

My buddy bout shat his pants on your mixed route right of the bolted one I led (shown in the post), the funky pro after the 2nd bolt cought him off guard, which was a worthless #1 camalot. Still, a cool route! Nice work up there so far!

Yep, a nice route. All of 5.9 we thought. The step around after the initial face climbing is worth the price of admission on its own.

I need to know what some of yous do to substitute junk food with healthier alternatives, and if you were able to stick to it, how did you do it. One chocolate chunk cookie for me quickly becomes like 10 or so within minutes. BTW, Back To Nature Oreo style cookies . So, what have you done to steel your will power and cut out the junk? What has been your substitute that isn't too bland?

Dry rock about 3 weeks ago at The Nut House, Clem's Holler area, though much snow remains on the floor.

Top of Peek-a-boo Tower? Cool little summit nook, with a fun bit of gritty o/w to get there.

Dean Potter free soloed it

Caption: Our party of 16 couldn't decide who got to do the King Swing, so what the hell, we all just lead it.