telemarker

Post deleted by telemarker

Have you ever noticed your rope smells differently after a day on granite as opposed to a day on basalt?

Well, apparently those who credit Hans Florine with the speed record on The Nose think it's acceptable, or the Hubers for their speed ascent of Zodiac think it's okay. I just think it's odd that if Ray Allen could average 60 ppg by choosing not to dribble the basketball, he wouldn't be credited with breaking any single season scoring records. He simply wouldn't be allowed to play the game until he adhered to the ethics of basketball. I think if french free is okay in some situations (i.e., bigwall speed ascents) then it's okay in any situation. Yard away, man! Hangdogging and futzing are what's unacceptable.

Three of us were out cragging in the Icicle the other week. We were gunning for a 20 pitch day (ended up with 13)and our rules were we would french free through cruxes for time's sake. My buddy Randy and I were talking as I was belaying my friend (to remain anonymous)up Off Duty as he was yarding his way through. We were wondering what the French Free equivalent was in other sports. In hoops, if I couldn't drive by you, I would simply pick up the rock and start running to the hoop, or in Soccer, everyone can use their hands at any time. Why is French Free an acceptable form of "bending the rules" in climbing, yet in other sports it's strictly forbidden to french free your way to a monster dunk?

Hey Col., I saw SCW recently, here's what I saw. Check it out... scw spring conditions

Being the passenger as your climbing partner is scoping lines at 65 mph, sometimes in his own lane, sometimes not quite.

Can someone explain to me the easiest way to pendulum, using the King Swing as an example? As I understand it, the belay at the top of boot flake is almost level with the belay for the following pitch. So, when the second lowers out on the swing, does he/she lower out on a third, lower-out line? Or is there enough in the haul line for the second to lower? Does the second have one (left) ascender attached to the lead line (assuming the leader has backcleaned the pitch) and tag line through the rap device to lower? I'd bone up on Freedom of the Hills, but thought i'd try here first. Also, where's a good crag to practice pendulums and aiding and cleaning traversing pitches? Muchos Denk-us!

Was it the second pitch of this corner? I'd have to agree.

I think camera tilt is Dru's personal crusade, although it's nice to know people view climbing photos with a critical eye. Constructive criticism.... I don't have shots of the other routes because it was just two of us and I have all the ass shots I want at this point. My impressions tho: Air Guitar is, well, Air Guitar; Corner Pockets is a sweet, 100 foot, pillar topout climb with great stemming and clean jams high up; Crackmaster is fun, with tiny wires your pro for the top; Mr. Clean, eases off considerably 3/4 of the way up (kind of like Mr. Clean on Lower Castle, hmmm...)

This is a good point. However, I count myself successful when I can push beyond my comfort zone, even if I do lob off. This is what's nice about vertical basalt, it's much safer to fall, thus making hard on-sights or redpoints for me more feasible. Obviously, I won't be so quick to push my limits on ledgy, off vertical terrain.

Intrestin'. Thanks

Yeah, cute! Reading it now, yikes! The thought came to me leading Crackmaster Lambada at Frenchman's. Towards the top of that climb, I was slotting stoppers that have a minimum breaking force of 4kn to 6kn, and I was wishing I could quickly calculate (roughly) how high I would be able to climb above the last stopper, fall, and have it hold (they were bomber placements). I was using a Beal rope, which has something like 8 to 10% elongation, and low impact force, and towards the end of the pitch, with more than 60 feet of rope out. AF, the site you alerted me to is good in answering this question, but is there a "quick and dirty" way to figure out how high one can climb above a small wire, or any piece for that matter, fall and have it hold?

Thanks for the info... My other related question I'll put in the form of a scenario: I weigh 175 lbs. I fall 10 feet total. NOT taking rope stretch, rope slipage through the belay device, or friction through the biner, how much will I theoretically weigh as I come to a stop?

I'm sure this has been explained ad nauseum somewhere here, but please someone indulge me the math in a free-falling mass. Tell me if this is calculated wrong or right. If I fall ten feet, and weigh 175 pounds, then is the amount of force loaded on the anchor calculated as such: 175 x 10/s/s? In other words, a fall of 10 feet takes me 2.5 seconds to decelerate, x 175, divided by 2.5 seconds squared? Someone clarify this for me please...

Climb: Choss Coulee-Corner Pocket, Air Guitar, Crackmaster, Mr. Clean Date of Climb: 12/27/2004 Trip Report: Wow! That's about all that can be said for today's outing. My friend Kyle Flick both had the day off to crag at Frenchman's. Bluebird, warm and vacant save for us. We guessed it to be around 60 to 65 F. We checked his thermometer and the temp indicated it was 77 degrees today. Good God! Helluva day. Due to the dry and warm "winter" thus far, we've been able to climg there every weekend for the past two months. Some shots of a previous day of Kyle on Tangled Up In Blue.

Merry Christmas (Or Happy Holidays), and an outstanding and safe 2005!

There's a new sign posted at this plowed out mess of a road: "Private property. Climbers and hikers cross at your own risk!" As in, you cross, I shoot? Or, danger, falling rocks? Or, make sure your pro is good? Interesting...

upper castle rock is dry, I just drove by there today...Careno Crag, for the most part is dry, snow creek parking lot was as far as I went...

If ya found a brown and black metoleous, backpack-style rope bag in the King Pins area Sunday 12-19, and you're feeling philanthropic considering the season, it's mine. Of course, if you're feeling REALLY philanthropic, put a new rope in it and give it to a boy/girl in a mentoring program, and take him/her out for a day of climbing.

As of 12-17, forecast from NWAC: The 6-10 day outlook is grim for snow lovers with a dry pattern indicated through Christmas. What more need be said?

So, will this dumbass restore the swath he plowed out?

This is so cool! As of 12-15... extended forecast models indicate that strengthening offshore ridging and an associated north- northwesterly flow should result in a return to further generally dry weather at slowly rising freezing levels later Monday through Wednesday of next week.

Thankg God for Middle East Wall!

Outstanding!! SNOW LEVELS 4-6000 ft N, 5-7000 ft S Wed 5-7000 ft N, 7-9000 ft S Thu 6-8000 ft N, 8-10000 ft S Fri

Best booty score...leaving $1,500 CASH in a travel wallet in the bathroom stall at the North Bend Texaco, then driving to Marmot before a flight to Thailand, reach for my wallet and...panicked call to Texaco and someone had turned it back in to the clerk, who thankfully had good morals.