Terminal_Gravity

Me too

I've experienced, weird aid, been caught in a white outs alone, loose exposed wet rock, bad sick at altitude, separating ice columns, falling in cravasses, breaking an ankle after a fall on a wall, falling on pro that shouldn't hold, got caught in a loose snow avalanche, rappling on EL cap after serious eye trauma, and I've watched loved ones get hurt...But what really really scares the shit out of me are pidgeons. I'm shaking just thinking about them.

Would you rather have a titanium Abakalov hook or a coat hanger?

I filled out the poll and was very polite. Do you think I will now be safe from roving bands of Slovene climbing thugs??

I want a rope that doesn't weigh anything, costs nothing, will hold any fall any amount of times and never tangles. DUH I would also prefer that it was designed by some one that can spell.

Maybe, but I really think there was a manufacture's flaw.

Thanks, PP. I'll inspect mine tonight. On another note: I've noticed what might be a few cracks forming at the corner of my eyes and on my forhead. Also the scars on my hands are really starting to build up. Any chance of a voluntary recall on this old bod?

So do you let your back up plan partners know they're the back up so they don't consider you a flake if your original plans don't fall through? ehmmic, That's priceless. one of the funniest/cleverest questions I've read.

A guy can't even enjoy a cold beer anymore without having to consider the political ramifications he's indirectly supporting? What is the world coming too? sheesh! How about Schmidt? Is that stuff still NW brewed? Lucky? Oly? Henry's? What's a guy with an obsession for cheap beer to drink while maintaining a firm moral stand? Your best bet is Henry's; which is now being brewed on contract by Full Sail brewing company. The mind boggles.

I had a great time, so did wife and daughter. Thanks to all for giving them such warm welcomes. Special thanks to host & hostessest, Timm & Becky and to RBW for catching my stupid leader fall. It was great to be able to attach some real people to all the avatars and to hook up with the ones I already know. I only wish I had been there longer and had brought A LOT more beer.

I can't believe you guys give THREE chances. For me one is max unless they have proven to be good partners prior. Still two would be the max last minute bail I could ever put -up with. Bronco, It would be a crime to turn down a real Rainier Beer. But face reality, Philipe Morris bought and closed down all three of the old school brewing icons of the NW. And in so doing fucked over a whole lotta people. Then they sold off the brands to a South African brewing conglomerate. Why would anybody drink a Rainier any more??? Do you really want to help line the pockets of wealthy post aparthied racist?

I MISSED SO MUCH WHEN I PASSED OUT Muffy, you were the last woman standing Sat. Night. You didn'tr miss anything.

Appreciate the offer , but I wont go near this thing ever again! Really?! That good/trying Huh?

Ont'a try it in da winter wif me, Wayne? Seriously.

RBW is your hero...He will be bringing kegs etc. Friday.

It looks like MRS. TG and our 9 year old daughter Claire are going to make it down as well. (If any body has a kids harness and does't mind bringing it that would be great.) I will be in PDX tomarrow but won't get to smiff until early Sat. If anybody would be willing to hook up with me to get the kegs on Friday that would insure that nobody goes thirsty Friday. Otherwise I'll bring them along with me. I'll be supplying taps & buckets but if anybody wants to pitch in for ice that would be cool ( no pun intended). If no body can hook with me in PDX Friday, Timm will still be bringing a 1/4 bbl of Dechutes. AlpK, should I bring some pallets???

There is lot's of sweet granite....Right here in OR. I found a new wall 1/2 a mile long and 400 feet high of solid white, high angle open books of GRANITE on a scouting hike last Sunday. It cracks me up when people ask me if I've ever made it to that little 2+ pitch slab of 5.6 near Anthony Lakes to climb Oregon's only granite. They just don't know. But the trinity alps are a cool playground. I went to HSU and they were the closest alpine area.

In many many cases a mis-matched set of tools is an appropriate compromise. I almost never choose to bring a matched set for varied alpine climbs unless I am bringing 3 tools. The above being said I strongly think that use of mis-matched tools are a not appropriate for beginers. I think that the most important thing for a beginner is to learn the proper swing and feel and use of a single tool. You need to develop solid technique before complicating things by useing different tools. I used a matched set of Hummingbirds for over a decade. If you are an expert framer or contractor you can probably shorten your learning curve.

Last pub club I attended ( see photo above; Thanks anna ) I brought 63 kegs. We managed to not quite kill one single keg of triple. Seriously: whats the best estimate of number of climbers???

How many people? How much should I bring???

Yes, there is fresh snow. Last Thursday it was about 4 inches on the talus in Boston basin.

Ironic, I just bought the book.

I also agree with the basic premise of the above post. But the simple fact is, lighter is faster. I suspect that the benifit is equal or even greater for people of marginal fitness. Example... Mark Twight (when in shape) could get 4000 feet of vertical on a 25 degree slope of Neve with 10 pounds on his back in an hour. It would take me 2 and a half hours. But I am sure that there are people out there that would be sucking wind and take 8 hours. Add 50 pounds. MT & I will probably go half speed. He would keep going but I'll be pretty spent and ready for a rest. Fatty, however, will take all day and have to sleep it off and start sore and grumpy in the morning just to finish the first 4000 feet. Something that is not often mentioned is that distance is increased even more than speed. If you are lighter you not only travel more distance per unit of time but you can travel longer before exaustion. So the gain is exponental. Even of greater importance is on technical ground. A truly fit person might be able to safely pull a 5.8 layback move with 60 pounds on their back...my hand would pop. But I could layback 5.8 with 10 pounds on my back any day of the week. The point is, light is just as, if not more, important for the non-extreme athlete. All of the above not withstanding, "Light and Safe" can only come with a lot of experience. You have to know what you can do without and what you need. That experience doesn't even have to be in the mountains. (example: Wear your cloths and grab your 30 degree bag and spend the night in your neighborhood meat freezer at -10 degrees. You WILL suffer, but if you start to go hyper or the suffering is too great you have learned a lesson that will keep you alive in the mountains...as you walk out to your car, crank the heater, grab the wet wipes and find an all night starbucks for that Latte) If you didn't bring enough for what hits you...you die or get rescued. I treat the knowlege of what to bring as if it is just as important as the knowledge of technique, avy assesment, gear usage, nutrition etc. etc. etc.

You heading up this way afterwards? Gunna make it to the OR rope-up at smith?

I will accompany 2 or 3 of my kegs for sure.