Terminal_Gravity

Ditto to the above beta. But I should add that the left gully is easy to escape left over to C. Spur if conditions turn sour and the right gully might have a bit more exposure to rock fall during warm temps or high winds. Nice TR guys, and some stunning photos. I wish I had joined you ( or at least had similar conditions) It looks like it was a really aesthetic climb...probably alot more technically sustained and overall more dificult than when I was on it. Rob, your photo passing the first step is exactly where I got the most sketched. Ivan, you fucking poser..."60 degrees average" it is truly amazing how a mountain can get 15 degrees steeper in just 3 months! ( sorry, just feeling a bit irrascable this morning) again, good job guys !

I'm scared of lows.

Cans are the best, you can pop the top prior and then hold the tab in your teeth and guzzle all the way down...HANDS FREE!!

A dead thread would hurt my head. Maybe then, you should go to bed!

leave no thread dead

It is a beautiful day in the Wallowas, Fresh snow on the sun drenched peaks. I'm heading out to do a little constructive deconstruction. (bolt removal)

All things being truly equal a lower impact force IS always better. But unfortunately other things are not equal. A lower impact force means more stretch for a given impact, which almost always means lower number of max falls and a longer body weight stretch: all three of which are bad so lower impact is a compromise.

Me too

I've experienced, weird aid, been caught in a white outs alone, loose exposed wet rock, bad sick at altitude, separating ice columns, falling in cravasses, breaking an ankle after a fall on a wall, falling on pro that shouldn't hold, got caught in a loose snow avalanche, rappling on EL cap after serious eye trauma, and I've watched loved ones get hurt...But what really really scares the shit out of me are pidgeons. I'm shaking just thinking about them.

Would you rather have a titanium Abakalov hook or a coat hanger?

I filled out the poll and was very polite. Do you think I will now be safe from roving bands of Slovene climbing thugs??

I want a rope that doesn't weigh anything, costs nothing, will hold any fall any amount of times and never tangles. DUH I would also prefer that it was designed by some one that can spell.

Maybe, but I really think there was a manufacture's flaw.

Thanks, PP. I'll inspect mine tonight. On another note: I've noticed what might be a few cracks forming at the corner of my eyes and on my forhead. Also the scars on my hands are really starting to build up. Any chance of a voluntary recall on this old bod?

So do you let your back up plan partners know they're the back up so they don't consider you a flake if your original plans don't fall through? ehmmic, That's priceless. one of the funniest/cleverest questions I've read.

A guy can't even enjoy a cold beer anymore without having to consider the political ramifications he's indirectly supporting? What is the world coming too? sheesh! How about Schmidt? Is that stuff still NW brewed? Lucky? Oly? Henry's? What's a guy with an obsession for cheap beer to drink while maintaining a firm moral stand? Your best bet is Henry's; which is now being brewed on contract by Full Sail brewing company. The mind boggles.

I had a great time, so did wife and daughter. Thanks to all for giving them such warm welcomes. Special thanks to host & hostessest, Timm & Becky and to RBW for catching my stupid leader fall. It was great to be able to attach some real people to all the avatars and to hook up with the ones I already know. I only wish I had been there longer and had brought A LOT more beer.

I can't believe you guys give THREE chances. For me one is max unless they have proven to be good partners prior. Still two would be the max last minute bail I could ever put -up with. Bronco, It would be a crime to turn down a real Rainier Beer. But face reality, Philipe Morris bought and closed down all three of the old school brewing icons of the NW. And in so doing fucked over a whole lotta people. Then they sold off the brands to a South African brewing conglomerate. Why would anybody drink a Rainier any more??? Do you really want to help line the pockets of wealthy post aparthied racist?

I MISSED SO MUCH WHEN I PASSED OUT Muffy, you were the last woman standing Sat. Night. You didn'tr miss anything.

Appreciate the offer , but I wont go near this thing ever again! Really?! That good/trying Huh?

Ont'a try it in da winter wif me, Wayne? Seriously.

RBW is your hero...He will be bringing kegs etc. Friday.

It looks like MRS. TG and our 9 year old daughter Claire are going to make it down as well. (If any body has a kids harness and does't mind bringing it that would be great.) I will be in PDX tomarrow but won't get to smiff until early Sat. If anybody would be willing to hook up with me to get the kegs on Friday that would insure that nobody goes thirsty Friday. Otherwise I'll bring them along with me. I'll be supplying taps & buckets but if anybody wants to pitch in for ice that would be cool ( no pun intended). If no body can hook with me in PDX Friday, Timm will still be bringing a 1/4 bbl of Dechutes. AlpK, should I bring some pallets???

There is lot's of sweet granite....Right here in OR. I found a new wall 1/2 a mile long and 400 feet high of solid white, high angle open books of GRANITE on a scouting hike last Sunday. It cracks me up when people ask me if I've ever made it to that little 2+ pitch slab of 5.6 near Anthony Lakes to climb Oregon's only granite. They just don't know. But the trinity alps are a cool playground. I went to HSU and they were the closest alpine area.

In many many cases a mis-matched set of tools is an appropriate compromise. I almost never choose to bring a matched set for varied alpine climbs unless I am bringing 3 tools. The above being said I strongly think that use of mis-matched tools are a not appropriate for beginers. I think that the most important thing for a beginner is to learn the proper swing and feel and use of a single tool. You need to develop solid technique before complicating things by useing different tools. I used a matched set of Hummingbirds for over a decade. If you are an expert framer or contractor you can probably shorten your learning curve.