Terminal_Gravity

By far Laurelwood's Brew pub in PDX, I forget the name. My favorite name is AK-47 by The Elisian Brewery in Seattle...They sold way more shirts then the beer which kinda sucked.

I have had tips go stiff & numb before without any blistering. The worst lasted about three weeks total but was getting better during that time. I also have gotten surface nip on my cheeks. It turned black and peeled off a couple of days later with virtually no damage to the tissue below the first layer of skin. Obviously real damage but only on a very small area without any depth. I think the difference on those less than true frost bite examples is the amount of overall warm circulation beneath the surface. Your fingers were cold throughout and probably got a touch of nerve damage without significant damage to the surface. I think that after full recovery you won't be any more susseptable to frost damage because nothing froze hard enough to start exploding cells. Blood circulation is the key and aggresive finger movement or swinging your arms to keep the slugish blood flowing might have helped your fingers.

Chelle, You might try John's Market on Multnomah Blvd about 6 miles south of downtown. It is less than 2 minutes from the freeway...2nd light on the NW corner. Getting back on the freeway south bound is a bit more challenging; ask for directions at the store. IMHO John's has close to the best selection of beer in Oregon. Sorry I have been so out of touch lately. Work has been insane ( not much fun these days ), I've barely been able to get out. Also, I had a keyboard failure, followed by a catastrophic hard drive failure...but I'm back on line and have Broadband for the first time FWIW I think it will be a good year for Wallowa county ice. If anybody PM's be for Ice info please leave a phone # and be patient for a reply. Cheers - steve

Thanks, catbird

I've taken a couple of 40-50 footers on steep slabs that are not note worthy, a stupid off-route 20 footer on Washington Column that broke an ankle, a small aid fall when the 400 pound flake that I had lowered off to try a tension traverse detached. It passed through the meat of my shoulder...I had lost maybe a pint of blood ( maybe 2...it seemed like a lot) by the time I got down; at which point I passed out cold and pucked while unconcious...my partner totally freaked. But the best was on my second failed attepmt of a big wall, 1978ish. I ran into this scketchy guy in the Camp Curry parking lot, selling these really really strange looking pro. He called them "friends", ranted and raved about them being the hot new thing and just about refused to take no for an answer. Finally, just to make him shut up and go away I bought a number 2 for the wildly outragious price of 13 bucks ( this crazy man actually wanted 15 ) The next day about 5 pitches up Half Dome I came to this severely flaring rounded layback section. Maybe I could have jammed it but my technique was pretty sub-par. I had a good rest stance at the base of the crack and fumbled around for about 10 minutes trying to fit a stopper or a hex. I even tried stacking and opposing, and hand placing a pin in a scar ( we were going hammerless ). It was obvious that nothing would hold. I knew that there was no way that I could place pro once I started up the palmy layback. 20 feet up was a fixed pin as the thing went overhung. I was about 25 feet above my last pro and was about ready to call down for the aid rack when I remembered this stupid "friend " thing. Amazingly, I got 3 out of the 4 swivily things to kind of stick. It was just enough of psycho pro to go for it. 2 minutes later, sweating shaking and panting, my palm popped just as I was clipping the FP. On the flight down I remember assuming I was about to go 100 feet, but the damn thing held. Who would've thunk. My 100 footer turned into a 40 . I was unhurt but my partner & I realized that we were over our heads and rapped off. Later that night I was drinking beer in the Mountain Room, I was well under 21, it didn't seem to matter, and some guy came up to me and handed me my first scotch. Apparently, he had been watching me though a telescope from Glacier point when I fell. I was one of the first climbers to buy a full rack of friends when they became availible in the Curry store.

Anybody use one of these yet?

As said above, but also I suggest toproping for awhile so you can get the feel of the sticks and balance. I great place to play and get a feel for ice climbing is on stable glaciers and seracs in the summer.

Five twelve...It does have a nice sound to it, doesn't it. I started climbing in southern CA and Yosimite before there was such a thing as "Trad". 5.12 was just about the hardest thing out there. The difference between 5.11a and 5.12a is way more than the difference between 5.8 & 5.9. In fact I think that every letter grade increase is about 110% harder than the last increase. I have never had the opprotunity in life to climb every weekend for two years...but I have climbed every day for a month at times. I don't have the Tex body type. It took me four years to be a solid onsight 10c/d slab & face climber, another four years to bump that up one number grade and another four years to have a chance at an on sight of a 12a trad (slab or face). I was motivated and climbed and worked out regularly but not full time but even then I could not have even considered a 5.11 trad lay back or off width. I could "project" a 13 at my best but that's not really climbing; is it? My point, from experience, is this... you have a long way to go and it will take a lot of days on the rock and a high level of commitment in all aspects of your life if you really want to be a 12 on sight leader. If all you want to do is say you have pulled a twelve move that is a whole different story. I had that attitude about a 13/a after I had put up a 12/a route from the ground up. Frankly, I find the fact that I have pulled some 13 moves 18 years ago much less satisfying than the fact that I have cleanly and smoothly climbed long elevens in the valley...and had a lot of fun doing it! Isn't that what its about having fun climbing and fun in life not bragging about the hardest thing you have ever done?

Sorry I have not responded to this thread earlier. The last thing I want to do is use this board for any self promotion. Even though I like brewing I'd still rather be climbing. But since you have all asked... I don't have any distribution at all outside of Oregon. Expanding the production capability of a brewery is very capital intensive. I have been satisfied with a slow and steady, internally financed growth and have not succumbed to the pressures of fast growth which would require me to over finance or sell off portions of the business. Selling out, IMO. We are still a tiny brewery compared to the large micros that distribute regionally and we simply don't have enough beer to even supply all of Oregon well. Soooo...even though I truly appreciate all the compliments and interest I can't give any timeline as to when I might start shipping to Washington. Maybe a year??? As far as bottling: the rumors are true. We will start bottling next month and a couple of speciality stores in Portland may have six-packs of IPA as early as November eleventh but it will definately not be on the shelf of every Safeway. Thanks so much again and if my beer makes it's way to Seattle I'll let you know. Cheers - steve

It gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside to hear that everyone enjoyed my beer so much.(kinda like the feeling in my mouth Sunday morning)I'm glad you all liked it ...it's really no big thang. I had a great time climbing, seeing old friends and meeting new ones. Special thanks to RBW for letting me jumar up every pitch on WF of the monkey , Sketch et.al. for the lovely tequila (which I un-graciously hoarded) , Jlag for going way above the call of duty in giving beta , Muffy for the best hug , and for timmy for starting this whole thang. Also, Shread, I have to say Willstrickland is right; that is a spectacular photo. Not only is the backdrop beautiful but the angle really accentuates my gut. The secret of how I keep my center of gravity close to the rock is out. 'Good climbing to you all - steve

I'll be there between 10pm & 1am tonight...thanks

I am bringing 3 kegs... but, unfortunatly, I have to sell them to a 21+ year old person to stay free of liability. The price is one penny. If the tool shows up and issues any alcohol related citations I have way to much to lose. I wish this was not an issue, but I am in a very vulnerable position. Unless there is absolute disregard for drinking and driving, wanton minor consumption, or the buyer of the kegs is charging for the beer there is never an issue with the law for the buyer. But that is not true for a OLCC licensee, like me. Anybody willing to help?

Nooo...A hual bag race is when you put an adult climber in a bag and somebody at an anchor hauls the bag and climber up the rock. The bag body can use hands on the face but must keep legs in the bag. It's more fun if you can race side by side but a stop watched time is okay. To be completely fair you need to do 2 laps switching the hauler with the bag body. I'll bring taps for the beer and a garbage can if I can fit it, but any donations of ice and an extra can would be cool (pun intended)...and just maybe a bottle of Maker's?

I'm going to try to get there late (very) on Thursday...with 3? kegs. see you all there - steve

I think Triple is perfect for gulping; eminantly guzzelable...but then again, I' a professional.

That depends on what the definition of what "two" is. I'll bring 15.5 gallons of stout and 31 gallons of other ( IPA, ESG, Pale Ale, maybe Triple) any requests? One big CAUTION! the Triple tends to be totally ruinious...just ask Winter; but it is my personal favorite. Part of my mantra is that the lack of beer should not be an issue, sort of like freedom, I'm sorry that we ran out last time. Biz is good and I'm happy to share. I would, however, love to try the Dopple Bock. One thought, maybe we should organize a breakfast...Horse cock, spuds, coffee and advil? Last year it was a little sad; every one wandering around, kicking the dirt, squinting in the stale sunlight, not quite knowing what to do next. Skating away on the thin ice of a new day.

Want sum beer? Judging from last fest, I think 3 kegs are appropriate. My treat. I'm happy to bring them. The only thing I request, is that if I start blubbering about personal crap after I drink my share, someone should cuff me up side da head.

3 days in a row it has snowed on the ridges...winter is on it's way!

Really!? I'm surprised...A long time ago I saw an old over stressed biner that had the gate catch tongue bent down. I don't know if it had failed and opened.

Bull

Also, I think that Liberty made one of the first light weight small narrowing D's ... the same shape as most of the small biners today. At the time they were amazingly light for there strength. I bought a dozen around 1978 and still use them on alpine routes.

Nice photo. You're lucky; all the liberty biners I have are ovals...the D is choice. The noseless REI is circa early to mid 70's and I think was made by SMC for the evil empire. Those biners were replacing the older style that had a simi-key shaped kind of like an arrowhead. There was a period after the noseless that there was a little notch put into the slot to grab the gate pin and help keep deformation of the catch on the body so that the biner wouldn't open on a heavy load. There was a brief period at Taquitz/suicide where it was popular to file that notch yourself. Go figure, SMC snacked up the idea. The nose was put in to counter act the inherent weak point. The fact that they are far less likely to open against the rock was an un-intended benifit. This as I foggily remember it

the fastest way is to hire a private jet and parachute out over Cloud Cap.

shit rob, i find your persona intensly terrifying...