Terminal_Gravity

I think also that the self weight of the rope would cause quite a bit of stretch prior to any load being applied. Most of that stretch would occur on the top half of the rope. This of course assumes that the friction of the rope on the slope is not greater than its own weight. I agree that the belayer would never know that there was a fall. Rope weight, colossal friction, fallen or not fallen climber...all those would pale in comparison to the wind loading of a nice stiff breeze.

My bad, sorry.

See Will's post above.

Bull, have you been on Everest? The worst winds on Mt Washington are not even comparable to those on an 8000 meter peak. No body climbs, or can climb, a big mountain off season with bad weather. Hell nobody knows how high the winds can get at their worst, at the worst time of year. But we are certainly talking well over a thousand miles per hour. Can you say jet stream? Just because a bump like Mt Washington is easily accessable anytime of year and has a weather station on top; it doesn't mean shit when you get reading above 200 mph. Don't stroke your ego in public by implying that Mt. washington is an accomplishment; especially on a thread talking about experienced climbers dieing. I agree with RBW above. I think though that the crux of the subject here is this... I can't site references; but I am sure that the standard (dog) routes on almost all mountains, not only have a higher fatality rate but a higher PERCENTAGE fatality rate. That is simply because those routes attract the climbers with the least experience. I expect a corrolary statistic could be found with wildly popular simi-technical routes like Lib Ridge. I think that any climb outside of ones own area has the potential to affect one's judgment. There is often more goal orientation, and therfore more potential to push harder than might be prudent. IMO

Does anyone know where I can find bulk Ramen style noodles that aren't all curly and full of air and lost pack space. By "Ramen style" I mean any kind of noodle that will become edible quickly by adding boiling water, olive oil and bullion.

Have fun... wish I could join you. The beer I am giving to NOLSe is my "Breakfast Porter". Someone will have to round up a tap; it is the standard sankey style. Please make sure I get the empty keg back.

You are the best. I appreciate the pack so much. Medical bills have put me in a position where I can't justify getting any gear for a couple of years. The one thing I was stressing about, besides getting in shape for an up coming trip, was a pack. My expedition pack is too big and heavy and my next size down is just too small. The shadow 55 is perfect! To be honest, I've been struggling with some emotional crap and the act of you guys getting me the pack is as valuable to me as the pack itself. Thanks again. Pub club 5/6?

I'd have to say... yes, no and pink

You got it right, Mister E. You prolly should have added the word "stupid" at the start of your post. There's really not much to tell except that when I hit, Sonny Bono's life flashed before my eyes and that gapper timmy and his wife were a big help. I skied off the mountain with them and they were kind enough to visit the hospital. Thanks for all the well wishes. I am healing...bodies do that. I'll be sticking to climbing; it's safer!

Go skiing, I hear the trees are the best thing at Bachlor!

....desparately trying to get back into some sort of shape after badly breaking two ribs, puncturing and partially collapesing one lung and tearing my liver, 5 1/2 weeks ago. I'm also spending alot of time reflecting on the mental and emotional process of putting myself in the position where I got injured. WHY???! did it happen is question I am trying to answer. Clearly, I made a mistake; I can't blame it on "shit happens". So far, I am mostly failing at both endevours.

Nice TR, man.... I'm very glad your okay. Was it way windy at the top of cathedral do you supose? and was that the source of the barage?

Yes, it is really a strange phenomana. But after all...Bullfighting, Mountain Climbing and auto racing are the only true sports; everthing else is just a game. Auto racing surely has more marketable value... and IMAX has already done thr travesty of everest!

Okay, Muffster....what are the first two???? ' since you have the rated. - TG

Indeed...One of my all time favorite TR's Thanks - s

Time to I. Saddle is so variable that this whole question is ridiculous. With a heavy pack in shitty conditions I gave up after 4 hours of effort. One morning in August I made it there and back to the lodge in less than 2 hours. BFD

Have Fun Dudes...wish I was with you.

Yeah, good for you....I really wasn't planning to make sure my wife would be okay and my daughter could go to college when I was TWELVE! There are quotes around it for a reason... Sorry...I'm a bit slow today.

Believe it or not, Orizaba has a much smaller summit than just about all of the cascades. The colandria (sp?) is very dramatic and steep. You can't tell until you are very close to the summit rim. You probably would lose your frisbee. I highly recommend the SW side. Crazy as it sounds I have acctually punched into a cravasse on Orizaba...clear up to my crotch. It was about 18" wide and about 20 feet deep.

Yeah, good for you....I really wasn't planning to make sure my wife would be okay and my daughter could go to college when I was TWELVE!

Does anybody have any sage advice on filling out the extra risk form for avid climbers. Some of the questions are super gray. They want to know what I've climbed in the last 5 years...Yeah right, like I remember (and they only give 7 lines to fill in ). What should I expect to pay extra, 10%, double, 10 times that of a cheeto eatin model railroad buff that has to rest going up from his basement.

The best lubricant I've found is Food Grade Dry silicone in a spray can. In will take a pretty good industrial supply house to find it. The best material to make your own is UHMW plastic...interestingly enough; the forrest park pass signs are made out of it.

Excuse me! You are clueless, man. I'm not sure about your adjective but I'm damn sure god doesn't protect anybody...rightous or not. If you believe otherwise you have on serious blinders.

Yesterday morning they were good & getting better now they suck the hind tit. Raining hard.

Solid base, 4 inches last week and 3 new inches last night and more coming as I write this. I suspect that avy will be moderate at worst (and better most areas) in most places.