Jarred_Jackman

These same pants are going for $215 on rei-outlet. I'll offer you $125 for them.

How much will you pay for the cams? I couldn't get you a screamin' deal but it's better than retail.

Do you know what the metolius relate to as far as BD sizes, are the 6 and 8 something like 2 and 3 in a BD? thanks

Has anyone made their own pack? I'm thinking abbout sewing a little pack similar to the Lowe Summit Attack Pack, super light little pack. But if that works well I'll be more curious about larger packs along the lines of the Black Diamond Ice Pack. The body isn't a problem but have any of the solved the problems of the padded harness areas, shoulders, belt, etc? Also, has anyone done seam-taping at home? The sewing is the easy part but getting the waterproofing back on, I'm not too sure about. take care

Hey guys, is access to the top of Z-crack easy for setting up top rope? Can I hike up there or would I climb Meatgrinder then walk a ledge, I have a picture but haven't been up there yet. Thanks

rayborbon, is there still snow on the descent from snow creek. thanks forthe poignant beta.

Basically it's like any other ticket. I received a ticket at Vantage and 8 months later received a bill. The tickets are issued from the F&W and they are dumbfucks for the most part, they take forever to do their supposed investigations which I think just means learning enough about reading and writing to effectively write a ticket, then they send the ticket to the local district court and the ticket makes its next stop in your mailbox. If the fee isn't paid it will be sent to a collection agent and the next time you need a CC or something like that, anything that demands a credit check, this unpaid ticket will show up. They're a pain but the way I see it there are a ton of people in the backcountry these days and why not pay. Things need to be kept up, of course some of the money gets misused, it's the government we're talking about, they can't wipe their ass without wasting paper, but the trails we all use and the trailheads we all park at, the roads we drive on and the killing of the wildlife from overuse all need money to continue. The fees go towards that to some degree, if you use all that stuff why not pay it? You pay to go to a movie, doing outdoor rec is still alot cheaper. By the way, has anyone been to the Canyonlands lately. I thought it was managed so much better than the fee parks in WA, i.e. Enchantments. I saw far fewer people, less damage, and far fewer people! [ 04-18-2002, 06:59 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

I've been looking for a partner for Index for Saturday. I can climb both friday at 3:30 or so and Saturday all day. I have two dogs that will have to come, well behaved, but I don't know if you're down with that. Let me know soon if you can. take care I'm climbing probably 5.9+/5.10a as far as Index goes and will follow 5.11a or so.

SOBO, I'm not railing on you, I don't even know you. I just think it's funny how so many seem to have your negative attitude towards Vantage and it's "rock quality" but it really seems that it's the people that are the problem, I and countless others have climbed there a lot and never had rockfall injuries. By the same token, a friend of mine fell in the Tetons due to anchor failure, the rock gave way and dropped the slings, yet nobody is saying, holy shit, better not climb that Wyoming granit, it's damn brittle and liable to get you killed. It's all a matter of viewpoint I know, but it's just curious that the most used crag in the state seems to also attract the most negative comments. The pathetic joke about your name was simply stating that all the little names everyone seems to give themselves are stupid, why not just sign in with your birth name, I guess I just don't undetstand the need for a pen-name.

How are you getting in to Mt Baker this time of year, are you sledding into the base then climbing? I was up that road before the last snow storm hit and it was pretty melted out but I would figure it's totally snowed in now. Are you gaining access to the mountain without a bunch of road walking? Here here, sledders, for the most part, completely disrespect the laws on that mountain. Who is the best person to voice complaints to, the rangers?

You guys kill me, you talk about Vantage as though it were your mom or something. Why does everyone care about it so much? If it's junk, then who cares, if it's great, then, well, climb there, but I don't understand all the controversy over a medium to small size climbing venue. Sobo, sobe, whatever, was it actually Vantage and its anthropomorphic abilities that almost killed you, or a little operator error that almost mamed you for life? I don't think a climbing area has actually ever killed anyone. I was actually at Vantage today and the weather was great! I actually pulled a rock off of a climb on Lower River, WHEW, I guess Vantage almost killed me. Climb safely.

Midwestern, Rainier is a great trip, although you'll hit big crowds that time of year. If you're looking for a londer alping route you should do the West Ridge of Mt Stuart, it's a great route on great rock and the camping in the area is beautiful, Ingalls Lake etc. There are countless others but this one is a larger mountain for washington and it is a fairly serious undertaking as far as time committment on the route and routefinding goes, for a newcomer that is. Have fun. Consider Mt. Baker too, further north, a truly beautiful volcano without Rainiers crowds! If you're sticking with Rainier though and you don't want crowds hit the west side of the park, you said you had a week, plenty of time.

Gear stickers? A car at a trailhead period means you're going to be gone for awhile, it only take minutes to break into a car. I say, if it's at night, a dog is the best car alarm anyone can get. They get a good nights sleep on the front seat and if anyone is stupid enough to go in, they certainly won't get out with anything but bruises and bites.

Paul, what day were you there?Has anyone seen the influx of big wall people practicing at Vantage? I saw three portaledges on the ZigZag wall, someone hauling a PIG into the Sunshine area, and some guy saturday evening was hammering pitons into the ZigZag wall. Funny though, if you're not at the Sunshine wall you don't see the crowds.

Don't know how cold you like it, but Vantage was 26 degrees cold yesterday.

The flow isn't as good now with the warmer conditions. Many dinner size plates shearing off due to the fractured nature of the ice, takes screws pretty well still, but definitely not in desireable shape.

In regards to Pilchuck, there's no way that road could be snowed in. I drove a two wheel drive pick-up in during january when there was a lot more snow than we have now. The road should have melted since and the new snow hasn't accumulated that much, the avy danger could be minimal depeding on where you go on the mountain, if you're interested in the summit you shouldn't have problems, skiing the gullies or faces you might have avy trouble. If you've been there before you already know this. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Are these videos of the bootleg type or can they be rented? I'm in Mt Vernon and curious if you know of anywhere over here to get ahold of them. thanks

I realize the info from today won't work for the 22nd, I am just getting the question out there in case someone goes up soon, maybe they'd let me know how it was. I already have the avi site marked, thanks anyhow.

What are you talking about when you mentioned Pan Dome Falls? Are you talking about the the Shuksan area, I was at the Baker Ski area and saw ice that looked "in", short though, I'm not sure if this is what you're thinking of. later

So has anybody been above the Palmer lift in the last week? I'm thinking about heading to Hood to do the Sandy Glacier Headwall on February 22-?? and am curious as to the conditions what with the new snow. I know the avi is higher than when I was there on new year's, but some recent info of the mountain or the sandy headwall route would be great! Thanks. Jarred

Hello all, I'm planning on heading to Utah the second week in April, I'll be there for a week and am wondering if anyone has suggestions about where to do. We're definitely heading to the desert, we're going to hike and climb. Just wondering if you had a week in the UT desert and didn't want to drive around a lot where you would go for the best hiking and climbing given the time of year. We're looking for climbing in the 5.6-5.10 range, welcome multi-pitch, but don't want any aid. thanks

If you can climb 5.9 and make it through 11 pitches forget the 5.6 route on Pingora and do the Southeast I think it is, whichever of the southern routes that starts in a crescent moon shaped dihedral and goes 11 pitches. You can rap the 5.6 route and see if you like it. The summit is so nice, and the climbing is great. Also, shark's fin is a good climb if you approach via shadow lake, easy trail in, texas pass is not bad at all, great swimming at shadow. The crowds are hit and miss, we didn't have trouble, the only team on Pingora that day, but the next day we could watch the bullshit around the fourth pitch as parties were trying to pass in a very narrow area. Also, the warrior or the bonet, don't remember which, but supposedly excellent climbing. Get a good guidebook, ours was not very discriptive and left us guessing at points. Take some time for Wild Iris too, fun hard routes, short. If you haven't done the complete Exum you should give it a shot, watch out for the marmots at the saddle in camp, they'll eat through everything whether there's food involved or not. Also, this goes for the Tetons, didn't experience it in the Winds, if a storm comes in during August just find an overhang, Wall Street if you're on the Exum, and wait it out, everyone will bail off the hill and you'll be sitting in the sun an hour later with the dry perfect rock to yourselves.

Are you boarding or skiing down? I haven't been to Pilchuk before and would be interested in joining you depeding on the descent.

Great info, you confirmed my original assumptions. thanks a lot, this site is good for something after all. take care