Jarred_Jackman

Where's the best ice climbing on Hood in the fall?

This is kind of funny, one guy says, yeah go, the other says, stay the fuck off or else, and a couple others simply state that access is tight and to beware of overcrowding. In a day of overdevelopment in almost every nook and cranny of human existence, expecially within the state of washington, people actually think that a climbing area that had potentially good rock and many routes could ever stay pristine without being bought and fenced? I think it's funny that those who want to enjoy the land and the climbing tell others to fuck off, or to be wary, while those same folks were once in the exact same position of wanting to climb at that new place where there aren't many people and the rock isn't all chalked up like a home gym. Seems as though there's some hypocrytical bug out there biting people, maybe it carries West Nile virus too, better look out, you may be the next victim. Climb where you want, don't trespass if you're afraid of the consequences, and don't blab to everyone you know if you truly want something to stay private and pristine. We're all just working toward a mass destruction and regeneration of the Earth anyhow, or so it seems.

Does anybody have the web address for this story, I heard about it but am unable to locate the story, I guess it was in the wentchee world, I'm interested in reading it. thanks

Anybody been to an area called the Dihedrals? Also, I know there has to be some climbing in the Blues, Spring mtn and such, what else is there between washington, smith, and idaho, besides farm land? thanks

Where do you live in Idaho? I'm hoping to find some cool shit in the Sawtooths, something for the near future, are you in southern ID? I might be interested in Stuart on the last days of August. Why do you want the entire north ridge? I don't think I want to do the complete. let me know

Is this the Stuart Range traverse you're talking about? I am curious as to which peaks are included in this, and how long it usually takes people. I looked at what I thought was the whole traverse and it doesn't seem as though it should take more than two days if you do Stuart by the west ridge and not the north. Info appreciated!

I almost never actually wear the goggles unless the wind is beatin' like a muthafucka, but yes, I think I have Smith's or Spy, something like that, they work great! They're also kind of flexible so they don't break in my backpack!

Am I missing something or is that the same price as GU after the shipping paid? I think GU is $1 per 1oz isn't it? Is this Hammer shit a lot better or something, the ingredients seemed quite similar.

For those interested in going in the cave, I was there a couple months ago and I had never been in a cave before, it's really quite mellow considering some of the shit cavers are doing these days. I had an ice axe and no crampons, a helmet and moonlight LED headlamp, wished I had a halogen though, but everything else was great, didn't need any spiffy gear. We exited after 40 minutes of tooling around, basically going straight, I think one could have kept going though, not alot, but a bit. The entrance is on the east as is the exit, it runs north and south. You could sleep in here but it's quite humid and I don't think you'd be very happy at the end of your slumber, pretty dark and boring in there. The ice was rock fucking solid though for those interested in prepping themselves for the X-Games over vertical competitions, HA. Have fun and be safe, I don't think you could really get lost in the main cave.

I know it doesn't fit your timeline but if you're up for doing this climb either the night of the 19th or 20th I'd be up for it. Let me know if you're interested. take care

Between me and my friend we've tried and used three different pairs of bugs, we got them all for free thank god 'cause they pretty much suck. They don't vent for shit so climbing would be a nightmare with them, sweatfest!

Anybody interested in these boots? Size 11. They're in great shape, I have plastics that are more comfortable for me now. Let me know if you're interested. Probably sell for around $110, they went for $375 new. take care

Careful about the fit though, I bought a pair of super mountain 9 boots by soloman and I don't really like the fit now, I have a pretty narrow foot and the toebox always mashes my feet just enough to cause discomfort, on multi-day trips I really notice this.

Do you know how the west ridge of sherpa compares to the west ridge of stuart as far as ability to solo. I know what the grade is but do you think the route finding and moves are pretty similar or is the sherpa route harder? Would you solo sherpa if you had soloed stuart, have you done stuart?

Shit, I did go a long way out of the way, I went about 2 miles or so on the Beverly Turnpike trail when that same 2 would have probably put me at the top of Long's Pass, oh well, I saw some beautiful meadows and had a decent tromp through the woods. I would have had my topo but I'm moving and it's packed, bummer. thanks for the info Jarred

BW--I would say, as for the finish, there's a ton of ways to do it, I've summitted via that route 3 times and finished a different way each time, each one a different difficulty too. The finish on the south side goes up a near vertical double cracks with flakes and was the most fun. Russ, I think I crossed that log jam. From the sign at the bottom of the cascadian, the one that says beverly one way and ingalls the other, which way did you go, I went the beverly way and must have missed something. I could see the pass but didn't see a trail, at least nothing as good as most of the trails back in there. thanks

No.

For those interested I did this route yesterday. It took 13 hours. The snow isn't an issue, don't take an axe, you'll find a little snow on the descent but not enough to warrant the extra weight. If you summit around 9:30 or so you'll be in shade the entire climb which was a big bonus as far as not sweating and not needing much water on the ascent. I missed the Long's Pass trail, instead heading for Beverly Turnpike, then changed course and hiked cross-country and down hills 'til I was quite close to the parking lot, only finding the original trail at the sign about 300 yards from the lot. For Long's Pass, do you turn right at the bottom of Cascadian then left somewhere along the way? I went straight, never turning right, and obviously that was wrong! take care

I don't know if you're into making your own stuff or not but if you are, I heard of a guy who gets scraps from a futon maker and uses the harder of the scraps, layers it together and wraps it all in a heavy duty material that sheds dirt fairly well and you have your pad for less than half the price. Those things are WAY over priced.

I was on the West Ridge today, summitted at 9:30. the snow below the false summit was soft enough I could turn around, chest facing the snow, rock in hand for brake, and slide down the snow looking through my legs, this works great for those who haven't tried it. I got quite a few looks at the North Ridge approach and i think instep crampons and a ski pole would be the ticket, if you like to walk with a ski pole. Also, try it car to car if you can, sleeping up there just means so much more weight! The nights are so warm though, the snow isn't nearly as hard as the stuff at Dragon's Tail, I was on that stuff a couple weeks ago and it was damn hard!

Hey this is for the three that went in to do the North Ridge car to car on friday, I passed you on the approach and was heading for the West Ridge. Just wondering how the trip went and how long it took you. take care

Hey I'm moving to Hermiston, OR next week and plan to be at Smith now and again, if you still want to climb monkey face and other stuff at Smith give me a call or email me. Jarred 360.848.1725 (for one more week)

If you do serpentine you should start uphill of where the route description says to start. There are some fun pitches, maybe three, I think the hardest move may have been 5.8, anyhow, it adds some fun pitches to a route that otherwise goes mostly with simul-climbing. have fun, the views are nice

Pants for Sale---$63 Black Diamond BDV size small, color khaki, made of Shoeller (the best stuff on earth I think) Used twice, they're just the wrong size They're great for summer glacier climbs or mixed routes in moderate temps. check them out at Black Diamond Pants Retail $128 SALE PRICE $63 email me: jarredjackman@hotmail.com [ 07-27-2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Thanks for the info. We ended up just climbing the DC which I didn't really think was a bad route. I never thought I'd do it but if you get ahead of all the mule trains it's just an easy and sometimes exposed route to the summit. We slept on the summit, what a great place to spend a night. Found the big cave tunnel that goes under the crater, sometimes the ceiling is about 30' high in there. The conditions are perfect right now. I don't know about any other routes though, routes like the Wilson headwall looked pretty melted out.