Jarred_Jackman

The snow bridge isn't that bad, it's thin but with a belay it's not a big deal. The only thing is the temperature, if it's really warm shit comes cruising down the couloir. The bergshrund shouldn't be the stopping factor if you're thinking of heading up there. take a picket and leave it there if you want to REALLY protect the moves.

Was Bill's partner a Mountain Madness guide? I think I might know the name but just want to make sure before I tell a mutual friend of this tragedy.

Beckey route is the worst I've done. Honestly, the rock isn't that fun, only two decent pitches and one is quite short. The belays end in gravel pits with bushes everywhere. The routefinding isn't that bad. I'd do either the Stanley or the West Ridge, the west is easier but I hear it's alot of fun.

So has anybody been down to Rainier in the past week? I heard most of the mountain above 12,000 is extraordinarily icy and often warrants running belays. Can anybody lend more information to this rumor? thanks

Millet backpack, fits torso of somebody about 5'8", size 55 L I think it's about 6 years old but it's in perfect shape. I bought it from somebody and it didn't fit me so now I'm selling it. I think it's about the equivalent of a 3500 cubic inch pack. The top detaches, it's a cool pack I just can't fit into it. Padded waste and shoulders, no holes or major abrasions. $45 OK OK OK $30 This is a good pack for short outings or going light. [ 07-22-2002, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Hey thanks for all the info. Did you all need double ropes or just a single 60m? thanks again

Boonecounty was up about four days ago and said it was perfect.

If you ascend the west ridge what is the easiest descent route, west ridge or east ridge? Have any of you gotten up the west ridge this year? How was it? [ 06-30-2002, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Steve, you're right, I read further just now, my bad.

This is so funny, does anybody else think this jobe individual sounds like a total lame-ass. I would think that just being up on Denali would be fun. It's not as though you're in LAX waiting for a connecting flight to Dallas or something. You remind me and myself when I'm in Seattle traffic, but you weren't in Seattle traffic, you were on Denali. Maybe the scene was way different than I imagine but I have to say I thought that note DGA wrote you was right on and quite hilarious.

The route is in great shape! The approach over the coleman glacier is pretty easy given the heavy snow year, although we did see one crevasse with a 20-25 meter snow bridge, it was a huge one, really beautiful. Anyhow, I would highly recommend to anyone doing this route to go down low and do the full N Ridge, you get to see a lot more of the beautiful aspects of the area that if you just ascended the shortcut gully. I don't know what Nelson's book is talking about saying the ice step is 70 degrees, we encountered an ice cliff that could be climbed several different ways but unless you wanted to traverse quite far to either side you have to climb a little vertical ice. We climbed a 45 meter section, a lot of vertical and a little 70. What a nice route, the descent down the cow path sucks, but it's easy and the crevasses are minimal, we unroped and didn't need crampons once off the Roman Wall. The glissade down the trail on the way out is most welcome. I still don't understand though, why do people insist on crapping right on the trail, the coleman deming descent had random shit laid out right on the trail, complete with toilet paper. You've gotta love those cow paths!!! [ 06-16-2002, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

I can't bypass this one. So what if you end up upside down, hasn't anyone ever fallen and ended up upside down? I can't be the only one. Just flip yourself right side up and forget the chest harness at home, it's just something else to clutter up the whole gettup anyhow, makes taking off clothes more cumbersome, layering and what not. I just stopped using it after I fell upside down and realized it isn't that hard to grab the rope and right yourself. I suppose if you're unconscious that's another story but there are bigger problems if you're unconscious after a fall. [ 06-12-2002, 09:45 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Just finished the North Face route today. What a great route, it's in nice condition, the start is a bit convoluted I thought. If the weather stays good and you are looking at this route, look no further.

Anybody want to climb Shuksan, single push, North Face, top out on tuesday morning. call me soon if you're interested 360.848.1725 take care

ANybody want to climb Shuksan, single push, North Face, top out on tuesday morning. call me soon if you're interested 360.848.1725

Hey, I can't seem to round anyone up last minute. Anybody out there feel like climbing the North Face of Shuksan, single push, top out on tuesday morning. Let me know soon 360.848.1725 take care Jarred

Call the Leavenworth Ranger Station first, the road is still closed I think, due to snow and treefall.

Have you sold any of these cams yet, if not I'll make you an offer. Let me know Jarred

I'm going to be moving to the Pendleton area this August to teach at a little school in Echo OR. I'll only be working 4 days a week and want to climb as much as I can. Are there any good climbs in the Blue Mountains, cragging, alpine stuff around Anthony Lakes, multi-pitch? Also, who out there in OR would be willing to take on a new partner, I'll be looking for someone come August. take care

Hey Skisports if you head up there I'd be really interested in a report about the conditions. I want to climb that route and would end up descending the W.Salmon, I think it might be best to summit really early and got down the glacier in the early morning hours to avoid any warming conditions from the days sun. Post your trip report if you would!

Charlie were you climbing with a guy named Aaron on sunday? I think we ran into you two on the wall then at Gustav's.

Without skis you don't have a chance on Baker unless you do the ridge traverse from the Herman Saddle by the ski resort. Shuksan is definitely your best bet if the roads aren't open, and the approach to the North Face is a lot more interesting and visually stimulating.

Hey, I'm always up for climbing routes I haven't done on Rainier. June is a bit far away still but I'd be up for it as long as I'm not working on the days you want to climb or something like that. Anyhow, I'm familiar with all the stuff you wrote in your message. My email is jarredjackman@hotmail.com so feel free to email me if you have questions, or as the dates your climbing gets closer. Just for curiosity sake, why the Kautz? take care

Thanks to all...I understand about the materials and frustrations adding up, that was the case when I made a SKY CHAIR, a type of one person hammock actually made in Boulder. Anyhow, thanks for the personal accounts! I think I might stick to trying to get stuff on sale then modifying it as needed, seems to be working well so far. take care Also, if any are interested, the Speedy Stitcher sewing awl is about the coolest thing on the market for altering large packs and heavy material.

Thanks to all...I understand about the materials and frustrations adding up, that was the case when I made a SKY CHAIR, a type of one person hammock actually made in Boulder. Anyhow, thanks for the personal accounts!