Jarred_Jackman

Shit, I did go a long way out of the way, I went about 2 miles or so on the Beverly Turnpike trail when that same 2 would have probably put me at the top of Long's Pass, oh well, I saw some beautiful meadows and had a decent tromp through the woods. I would have had my topo but I'm moving and it's packed, bummer. thanks for the info Jarred

BW--I would say, as for the finish, there's a ton of ways to do it, I've summitted via that route 3 times and finished a different way each time, each one a different difficulty too. The finish on the south side goes up a near vertical double cracks with flakes and was the most fun. Russ, I think I crossed that log jam. From the sign at the bottom of the cascadian, the one that says beverly one way and ingalls the other, which way did you go, I went the beverly way and must have missed something. I could see the pass but didn't see a trail, at least nothing as good as most of the trails back in there. thanks

No.

For those interested I did this route yesterday. It took 13 hours. The snow isn't an issue, don't take an axe, you'll find a little snow on the descent but not enough to warrant the extra weight. If you summit around 9:30 or so you'll be in shade the entire climb which was a big bonus as far as not sweating and not needing much water on the ascent. I missed the Long's Pass trail, instead heading for Beverly Turnpike, then changed course and hiked cross-country and down hills 'til I was quite close to the parking lot, only finding the original trail at the sign about 300 yards from the lot. For Long's Pass, do you turn right at the bottom of Cascadian then left somewhere along the way? I went straight, never turning right, and obviously that was wrong! take care

I don't know if you're into making your own stuff or not but if you are, I heard of a guy who gets scraps from a futon maker and uses the harder of the scraps, layers it together and wraps it all in a heavy duty material that sheds dirt fairly well and you have your pad for less than half the price. Those things are WAY over priced.

I was on the West Ridge today, summitted at 9:30. the snow below the false summit was soft enough I could turn around, chest facing the snow, rock in hand for brake, and slide down the snow looking through my legs, this works great for those who haven't tried it. I got quite a few looks at the North Ridge approach and i think instep crampons and a ski pole would be the ticket, if you like to walk with a ski pole. Also, try it car to car if you can, sleeping up there just means so much more weight! The nights are so warm though, the snow isn't nearly as hard as the stuff at Dragon's Tail, I was on that stuff a couple weeks ago and it was damn hard!

Hey this is for the three that went in to do the North Ridge car to car on friday, I passed you on the approach and was heading for the West Ridge. Just wondering how the trip went and how long it took you. take care

Hey I'm moving to Hermiston, OR next week and plan to be at Smith now and again, if you still want to climb monkey face and other stuff at Smith give me a call or email me. Jarred 360.848.1725 (for one more week)

If you do serpentine you should start uphill of where the route description says to start. There are some fun pitches, maybe three, I think the hardest move may have been 5.8, anyhow, it adds some fun pitches to a route that otherwise goes mostly with simul-climbing. have fun, the views are nice

Thanks for the info. We ended up just climbing the DC which I didn't really think was a bad route. I never thought I'd do it but if you get ahead of all the mule trains it's just an easy and sometimes exposed route to the summit. We slept on the summit, what a great place to spend a night. Found the big cave tunnel that goes under the crater, sometimes the ceiling is about 30' high in there. The conditions are perfect right now. I don't know about any other routes though, routes like the Wilson headwall looked pretty melted out.

The snow bridge isn't that bad, it's thin but with a belay it's not a big deal. The only thing is the temperature, if it's really warm shit comes cruising down the couloir. The bergshrund shouldn't be the stopping factor if you're thinking of heading up there. take a picket and leave it there if you want to REALLY protect the moves.

Was Bill's partner a Mountain Madness guide? I think I might know the name but just want to make sure before I tell a mutual friend of this tragedy.

Beckey route is the worst I've done. Honestly, the rock isn't that fun, only two decent pitches and one is quite short. The belays end in gravel pits with bushes everywhere. The routefinding isn't that bad. I'd do either the Stanley or the West Ridge, the west is easier but I hear it's alot of fun.

So has anybody been down to Rainier in the past week? I heard most of the mountain above 12,000 is extraordinarily icy and often warrants running belays. Can anybody lend more information to this rumor? thanks

Hey thanks for all the info. Did you all need double ropes or just a single 60m? thanks again

Boonecounty was up about four days ago and said it was perfect.

If you ascend the west ridge what is the easiest descent route, west ridge or east ridge? Have any of you gotten up the west ridge this year? How was it? [ 06-30-2002, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Steve, you're right, I read further just now, my bad.

This is so funny, does anybody else think this jobe individual sounds like a total lame-ass. I would think that just being up on Denali would be fun. It's not as though you're in LAX waiting for a connecting flight to Dallas or something. You remind me and myself when I'm in Seattle traffic, but you weren't in Seattle traffic, you were on Denali. Maybe the scene was way different than I imagine but I have to say I thought that note DGA wrote you was right on and quite hilarious.

The route is in great shape! The approach over the coleman glacier is pretty easy given the heavy snow year, although we did see one crevasse with a 20-25 meter snow bridge, it was a huge one, really beautiful. Anyhow, I would highly recommend to anyone doing this route to go down low and do the full N Ridge, you get to see a lot more of the beautiful aspects of the area that if you just ascended the shortcut gully. I don't know what Nelson's book is talking about saying the ice step is 70 degrees, we encountered an ice cliff that could be climbed several different ways but unless you wanted to traverse quite far to either side you have to climb a little vertical ice. We climbed a 45 meter section, a lot of vertical and a little 70. What a nice route, the descent down the cow path sucks, but it's easy and the crevasses are minimal, we unroped and didn't need crampons once off the Roman Wall. The glissade down the trail on the way out is most welcome. I still don't understand though, why do people insist on crapping right on the trail, the coleman deming descent had random shit laid out right on the trail, complete with toilet paper. You've gotta love those cow paths!!! [ 06-16-2002, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

I can't bypass this one. So what if you end up upside down, hasn't anyone ever fallen and ended up upside down? I can't be the only one. Just flip yourself right side up and forget the chest harness at home, it's just something else to clutter up the whole gettup anyhow, makes taking off clothes more cumbersome, layering and what not. I just stopped using it after I fell upside down and realized it isn't that hard to grab the rope and right yourself. I suppose if you're unconscious that's another story but there are bigger problems if you're unconscious after a fall. [ 06-12-2002, 09:45 PM: Message edited by: Jarred Jackman ]

Just finished the North Face route today. What a great route, it's in nice condition, the start is a bit convoluted I thought. If the weather stays good and you are looking at this route, look no further.

Anybody want to climb Shuksan, single push, North Face, top out on tuesday morning. call me soon if you're interested 360.848.1725 take care

ANybody want to climb Shuksan, single push, North Face, top out on tuesday morning. call me soon if you're interested 360.848.1725

Hey, I can't seem to round anyone up last minute. Anybody out there feel like climbing the North Face of Shuksan, single push, top out on tuesday morning. Let me know soon 360.848.1725 take care Jarred