chelle

I personally think that it's high time that we extended the parameters of this debate to include the relative merits of and technique relating to the proper use of frozen moss as protection for the leader and in anchor construction. The root structure of some species of moss is known to be more diffuse and fibrous than others, and hence more resistant to fracture under dynamic loading when frozen, while others have a more mat-like root structure which provides greater density for pick placements on lead. One cannot overstimate the importance of knowing one's moss IMO, and iit should be noted that both F.O.T.H. and the Mountaineers Advanced course stress the importance of girth hitching at least two distinct species at the belay anchor when possible for maximum safety. kmurray, I think that JayB was referring to an anchor that was used at a belay on his climb last weekend and didn't intend to say anything about the accident that started this discussion. That aside, his post is funny given his climb's circumstance and the fact that all of us are pretty much advocating the same thing... safe climbing technique. But we're so bored that we're arguing semantics.

Weekend was . New and not so new friends. A little snow, a little rain, a little beer, some good food, and a strange movie. Cold bivies made for sound, deep sleep. Was much needed. Sunshine yesterday made me smile.

Eating Raoul Diva Forgot the name of the movie...c. 1985, about a guy who spends the night wandering around the streets of NYC. Way whacked flick.

Hadn't seen the list before RuMR. Thanks for posting it.

You should be proud!

I talked with Geoff, the publisher, this weekend at the wall up here in Bellingham. He's done a limited run for the first issue, to kind of gauge peoples responses. It's pretty slick, sort of like an "Alpinist" for the indoor crowd. Not my bag, but a good looking mag for sure. Necro - what I want to know is whether the are going to be so limiting with the number of ads in the mag? The Alpinist only lets 10 ads in each issue which really limits the amount of critical beta I have on the latest gear and trends. I really hope they don't limit the advertisements.

How can you teach someone who is new to trad climbing how to build a "proper" bomber anchor if they don't have the skills to place and evaluate good vs shitty gear? I can't even figure out what you're trying to say... Assuming you are mostly teaching newer climbers who have little trad experience... How much do you really think throwing the odd extreme situation at them is going to prepare them for the average day out multiclimbing with their buddies? They need to know how to place good gear and to build a SRENE anchor. The foundation of which is GOOD GEAR! If they can't get that down, who cares about the SRENE part. Yeah, they may feel they achomplished more in your class because they got to play with cordelettes and slings and determine if the anchor fit the cool new acronym they learned...BUT if they still place their cams in with the stems sticking out parallel to the ground, and they select the wrong nut sizes they have not really LEARNED something of value. They just had a fun experience and maybe heard some scenarios about extreme situations on a climb or some of your horror stories from accidents you've been involved with. But they haven't been prepared to do it themselves safely, which is what a class is for.

I agree with Mattp that if you have 3 pieces of good gear placed in more than one crack at the belay, how you hook them together shouldn't be the focus of whether it is a solid anchor. New leaders (and any climber) can make anchor building easy for themselves if they carry a cordellete and just connect the pieces and tie a knot in it to equalize the anchor. What is important is that each piece be well placed and able to withstand a fall on it's own. Better still would be to have at least one multidirectional piece or a piece rigged for an upward pull. Not whether they are connected with clove hitches, individual slings, or a cordelette. This is what I think Matt is talking about (correct me if I am wrong). The pieces need to be placed well and the leader should be able to evaluate if the nut or cam is a good placement. Also everyleader should be careful to protect the belay by placing gear at the beginning of the pitch. When I started climbing it took a few clinics about placing gear before I understood all the factors that might cause gear to fail. I was also advised to spend some time following leaders who know what they are doing. I knew how to build a decent anchor when I started leading, and a couple hours with a friend who is a guide made me solid on how to build tricky anchors with limited gear. Today, it seems like people just hand their friend who can climb a rack of gear and say go to it. I've heard some people talk about how they started leading trad the second or third time out with a buddy. It's worked out for them, but it seems dangerous to me. But maybe I'm just more conservative.

Gotta rest it from running or it could get worse... gentle stretching, massage, ice, ibuprofen. climbing won't really bother them too much as long as you stay off the steep stuff where you have to heel hook or really pull in with your toes to stay on. That uses your hamstrings.

Never heard of Arlie before, but that doesn't mean she doesn't crank in many disciplines. Steph Davis? Nancy Fagan? Abby Watkins? Are a few more that quickly come to mind.

Just give up on the idea that you don't want to leave WA and follow the hoardes to Smith for a fun weekend of climbing that is way better than Vantage choss.

And if you wait long enough, somebody will pat your back.....so you don't have to! Isn't this spray? I have no idea how they got the photo. Maybe they ripped it off this board...

That was entertaining! I found some quote from a conversation I had with someone back in 2001 that I don't even remember having. Consultants always just spouting off and trying to sound smart. me spouting off Found out that my photo of Diestel on Chain Rxn is the Photo of the month on Ramuta's resole webpage. Way f'ing cool.

Afraid of change? Maybe it's all coming to an end. Or maybe this place has been pretty boring lately and some people are trying to make it interesting.

What the hell; a send is worth a thousand words. No not that, he isn't coming to smith this weekend!!! he bailed! He's becoming famous for bailing.

Not all buddists think this way, Muffy. The Dali Lama says we each create our own suffering and have the power to end it. It's all about attachment and a dislike of change. These things weigh you down and make you suffer. Accepting that things change and what you are attached to (people, things, ideas) is only really here for the moment, frees you from worrying about the future and suffering when it doesn't work out the way you plan. For an interesting set of tenents about life check out "The Four Agreements" by Don Miguel Ruiz. An interesting look at Toltec philosophy which like most spiritual philosophys shares a lot with other ones. But his explanations make it easier to understand than some heavy buddist stuff I've read.

Looked myself up and found nothing....Guess flying under the radar works. Seems like there is a "twin" of me with my maiden name out in NY though. Interesting...

The fact that you seem to really believe this makes me sad for you.

its funny how our brain's work. i believe the guy. he probably didn't think...

If you're looking for climbers to shag the ratio of men to women on this site may not work in your favor... As for Dwayner...that's not his real name.

Years ago (back in the early days of the www c. 1996) there was a free site called 411.com. You could find people there. Looks a little more like the yellow pages, but has a Find Anyone section. Oops. Looks like it's a pay thing now...I guess it depends on how badly you want to find them.

I hate those Dovals. The biners spin around and you can't really tell which side is up. They suck.

I get a ton of penis enlargement spam, which always cracks me up. I've also been getting a bunch of emails with sanskrit type lettering. Have no idea what those people want...

Spirits and neutrinos. Are there other carabiners out there?

Don't get me wrong here Fairweather. I would love to see more campsites and fewer hotel rooms and $60/night tent cabins. I just don't think tearing down an 100 year old building that is in the historic registry is the right way to gt them. Also, I hate the Sierra Club, but the educational programs they run out of the monument are just about Yos history, John Muir and that sort of stuff from what I know. I don't think they use it as a way to get new members. If he has a problem with the Sierra Club just yank their privaleges for building use, don't demolish it.