carolyn

I know a few people who use cobras, quarks, and top machines. those arent quite straight shaft, but probly the closest I would use for drytoolin. Im sure anything is possible and you could get away with it for a while. Tho It kind of sounds like bringing your ski;s to snowboarding school or using your golf clubs to play baseball. If you are interested in drytooling for the sake of drytooling, I would look into one of the tools I listed above (more for all around ice/mixed/dt). And if you REALLY want to get into it....buck up and get some ergo's or fusions. Ergos do well on ice. Fusions, not so hot. DONT GET THE TRANGO CAPTAIN HOOKS!!!!!! They are cheap, but weigh a ton and the pick is so limited for wedging into cracks. Part of the fun of drytooling for me is using the tools in a creative manner to get myself up the rock. I think using a straight shaft would take a big part of the creativity and movement away from the activity. Just my .02cents.

I just let go of the tool and duck if I start falling. So far so good with NOT needing that mask alpinfox posted. Tho it might make a good investement. Too much weight added by putting a tennis ball on the hammer specialed!!!!! C'mon, whatcha thinkin?!?!?! Ergos and fusions dont really have much of a hammer to protect. Its more the sharp end I worry about. Hey, Im not complaining. I was just thinking what a freakin' crazy activity. And to think it can be so much fun at the same time. I must be sick!

little drytoolin if it aint too wet out. ppppparty Judge the halloween contest at the club. Funny(or not)...the theme this year is "Halloween Hoe-Down" Misprint on the flyer and website(www.first-avenue.com)...suppose to say, "come in your favorite wife-beater". Instead it says, "come as your favorite wife beater" Long story-but after 25yrs, halloween might be the last night we are open. SAD SAD SAD. Been working there 10yrs! (for those of you who ever saw purple rain, its the nightclub a good portion of the movie was filmed)

Thanks for the ideas. I will be having an election party at my house. I figured if I get drunk enough it wont matter who wins (for the moment) and the next day I will feel too much like shit to care. Just delaying the inevitable feeling of doom one more day. ANyway you get to drink at our house whenever they say: Florida Electoral Vote Majority Vote lawyer battle state We may all be passed out by mid-day!

SNARGS

Yesterday I got my first day of drytooling in for the season. Around here there really is a season for it...when its too cold/wet for rock, but no ice. Anyway, I was humbly reminded how fuckin HARD and scary it is. Mmmmmmm....how I love pulling up on a tool planted on a paper thin ledge of sandstone. Even better when your face has no where to go but in front of the sharp object! The physics of pulling your body up, while pulling down on one tool and sideways on another. Or the ability to stack tools in a crack barely wide enough to fit the first few teeth of your one tool, so you can stand up high enough to reach a sloping ledge. which you thought was going to be bomber. The sound and smell of your tools grinding into the sandstone as your hold crumbles away. The pump! I dont know why I enjoy such pure fear and physical torture. Maybe because I know one day it will be much easier for me . Who knows. I love the movement, the stillness required, and the creativity of using the tools to move you up the rock. So, drytoolin.... Discuss!

I couldn't cause couldn't get over my fear of heights. Took two years, but I did it. I had a hard time even getting my ass up a 6 when I first started. My first 8, on the N.shore out here took me probly 1 1/2hrs to claw up 80 some feet. I hated rock climbing after that. Vowed to never do it again. Didnt touch it for a little over a year. Ice was best anyway! My grades increased as I began climbing with people who I had fun with, helped me challenge myself, but never let me get in over my head. Btw, Ken, THAT ROCKS! You know its not the fear of heights, its the fear of falling. My 73yr old neighbor kept insisting he was afraid of heights until one day I saw him literally hanging out his 3rd story window to clean it. The only thing keeping him from hitting the ground were his arms holding onto the side of the house. "Didnt that scare you?", I asked. "No...because I felt safe that I wouldnt lose my grip or strength". So it WASNT about the heights. it was all about falling. As soon as you were ready to trust the gear, your partners, and yourself the fear went away. Wow, that felt deep!

I used to do that a lot, but found it was actually somewhat of a bad habit because I would forget and wipe them on my leg when I was wearing shorts. I know, I know...anal kind of thing, but if your leg is sweaty, there goes the purpose of cleaning the bottom of your shoes. Now I just wipe one shoe on top of the other which seems to work well...love the mat I bootied off a friend for craggin'.

Im curious after being at both ropeups what your thoughts are now? I took some advice from a well respected climber when I was looking at ropes (and I think I have said this here before). He asked why I wanted a rope. Well, because I want to have a rope, I guess. His response was, "You climb with people who have ropes, right? So what do YOU need one for?" Ba-da-bing! Smart fellow. I bought the rope anyway. WHy? Because it represented a form of independance within climbing (to me). Starting a rack, sloooooooowly, also represented that independance. I figured if I had the gear I would be more likely to use it than if I had to wait around to climb with someone else who had it. So, following "my" logic I understand where you are coming from with the excitement and eagerness to start your own rack. On the other hand, I fully see the benefits in using your partner's gear, especially if you have numerous partners with a wide range of toys. I did this for a few years. As I began to understand (note: I still have a long way to go) what was best for certain situations and what worked best for me I started purchasing my own gear. I dont regret any of my purchases thus far. I think finding that happy medium between educating yourself as fully as you can and taming the eagerness can help you make solid choices. Basically, dont rush yourself...but dont hold back. You will get what you need when you are ready. Until then, enjoy the process of learning and enjoy CLIMBING. Just a general observation after reading this post... Tho I dont know snowbyrd, her experience, research she has done and so forth, I do know that as someone who has asked the same question in the past some of the answers given could be somewhat confusing (jeeezus run on sentence!). I guess in the newbies forum it might be nice to back up your reasoning when using tech talk. For example..."get lots of webbing". Well, why? "slings instead" Why? "Hexes suck" why? "metolius nuts suck" why? I understand and can back up my opinions on all of those statements now. However, when I first asked my "rack" question I remember it just added to my confusion. Just my .02sense

tape sandpaper to the holds. They will harden up right quick.

or MINE! "hot pink" is the choice of color for me.

Last year was one of my more successful seasons in regards to keeping my hands dry and warm. Drytoolin'/mixed - Cloudveil Ice Floe gloves have been great. Because my hands seem to get cold in them around 20 degrees or so I supplement with hand warmers in a wrist pouch. I have found they do get wet pretty easily. Dexterity-wise and comfort they have been great. Im pretty sure they make 'em in xsmall The other system which worked well for me last year was a thin (200wt) fleece mitten along with what I think are marmot waterproof overmitts (tho Im sure most brands would be sufficient). My hands stayed super dry and toasty all winter. A lot of the overmitts might slip around on the shaft of your tool, so make sure when you try them on you have access to swinging a tool in the air a few times. I have a pair of Patagonia WHite Smoke gloves on hold right now which I have been waiting to find for about a year. I have high hopes they will be "the" warm, dexterious GLOVE. Again, they come in womens sizes. Good luck.

Well I am back safe and sound in the frigid Midwest. Thanks to those of you who carted me around, gave me a place to sleep, shower, etc (icegirl, uncle tricky – and fergus, AlpineK, Klenke, Fern, snoboy, ratt…hope I didn’t leave anyone out). This was by far one of the best trips I have taken to the PNW over the past three years for a number of reasons. The weather, with the exception of one evening, was near perfect. Okay, so it was a LITTLE chilly. Now that I am back home I really can’t complain. The hospitality was incredible. I’m so grateful to have had the opportunity to spend more time with folks Ive climbed with in the past, as well as meet new people. One of the main reasons this trip was so impactful this year for me was to see the progress I have made over the few years I have been posting on this board. I often have a hard time seeing the day to day progress in my climbing. It usually takes a big undertaking/test for me to see how far I have come. No doubt I was faced with a number of challenges on this trip…. (Warning…May me longwinded) *Day One Icegirl so generously picked me up from the airport. Though she was unable to climb she did help me find a last minute partner for a late afternoon outing at exit 38 where klenke and I both led a handful of pitches. Hmmmm…what a great place that could be for drytoolin’!!!!! *Day Two Chilled at AlpineK’s house before heading to Mattp’s to watch the debate and then out to lworth. *Day Three My earliest start of the trip (7am) . Alpinek and I climbed outer space. This was the first real test on my leg with the hiking up and down hill. Thanks to curt who carried most of the weight. Probly sped me up a bit (believe it or not ). For those of you who don’t know me, approaches often take twice the amount of time because I soooooo suck! We saw GOATS!!!!!! I was soooo psyched. I know you all find them quite the nuisance. I have never seen them before (other than the zoo), so I found them to be quite fascinating and cute. I led the 4th and final pitch on OS. These were my first leads on a multipitch. Not much opportunity to lead trad out here, so this was also one of my first dozen or so trad leads as well. The final pitch RULED!!!!! If I could only have that headspace everytime I climb. The goats met us at the top where I proceeded down the wonderful walk off, knocking off rocks left and right. Thank you curt for being patient and understanding of my clumsiness . Thank you Jesus for no one being below me. *Day Four Lworth – Followed Patrick on Brass Balls. Geejuz mother! I got an AWESOME ass kickin! What a fun bottom pitch. I led Saber after BB. That climb sucked . I kept yelling, “Is this over yet?”. Tho I liked the traverses, I found the climb to be fairly insecure and sketchy for the grade. I was glad to have the experience of being on a route I hated. Even more glad to be off it. We ended with damnation crack, which I can say was one of my favorite pitches in all the days ahead. What a beautiful climb, jam-packed with variety and pumpiness. *Day Five Semi Rest day. Thanks to Alpinfox who set up some topropes somewhere in lworth. Enjoyed some moderate slabby face climbs, along with some roped bouldering on fairly challenging faces. *Day Six SW Rib of S. Early Winter Spires with .9 finger crack variation and 10b double roofs (did I get it right Patrick?) with Uncle Tricky. I led the 2nd and 6th pitch. Wigged out a bit on the first lead . Just a tad more exposure than Ive experienced so far. Dinged around with gear forever, placing 3 pieces in less than 5ft. Two were good, one solid. Of course somehow I managed to NOT clip into the solid piece. DOH! Double roofs were way kewl. I think the only thing that got me over them was pure adrenaline and fear of having to ascend a rope in mid air. I thoroughly enjoyed this route and would HIGHLY recommend it. Thank you Uncle Tricky for knowing that Liberty Bell would not have been quite as fulfilling for me. *Day Seven Goat Wall (AKA GOTE wall ). Led a few of the easier pitches and climbed one of my first .11’s. We didn’t finish the 11 pitches because it looked like some weather was coming in. I think we got thru the 7th pitch? I really enjoyed the unique opportunity to climb a multipitch sport route. *Day Eight Ahhhh! Full rest day!!!!!! Shower, laundry, beer, and video games!!!!! *Day Nine Fun Rock, Mazama. Mmmmmmmmmmmm….face climbing at its best ! Packed in a fair amount of routes in a short period of time. Tho the routes aren’t long, I found the climbing to be some of the most enjoyable on my trip. Can you believe I was with Uncle tricky and we did ANOTHER route with double roofs! Pffffttttt!! *Day Ten Rest and Travel day to Smith. *Day Eleven Gorge! Need I say more?!?!?! *Day Twelve Short lead day with AlpineK…Captain Xenolith, Helium Woman, Hop on Pop(?), and my 2nd trad 8 – Lion’s Jaw. I followed Lions Jaw last year. It was fun to come back and lead it, despite the fact that I forgot there was a small roof and I ran out of gear about 5 ft below it, in addition to missing the anchors and having to downclimb about 10 feet to get back to them . Great experience and pretty decent headspace!!!! Thanks for the encouragement Alpinek. *Day Thirteen Where Ever I may Roam with fern. I followed the first two pitches last year and wanted to lead ALL of them this year. So, I was fern’s ropegun for the day. What an awesome climb . Didn’t flinch or feel a bit of fear the entire way up. In the moment as much as humanly possible. ROARRRRRRRRRR….one climb I would do again and again. Amazingly enough, Asterisk(?) pass was quite the hurdle for me last year. In fact, I think I had to rope up to get my scared ass over it . I was a bit nervous thinking of going over it again this year. Ha! To my surprise, not a problem at all!!!! *Day Fourteen Full on Rest day! Fern took me to breakfast at the Ikea store. Eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, and croissant all for one Canadian dollar!! I figured since it was already crazy to eat such a cheap breakfast in a furniture store I might as well wear my pajamas and slippers. Made it more comfortable to test out all their beds . Fern and I also made a helmet and chalkbag for my travelling partner, Grover (some of you have seen him on the summit of rainier!). Met dru for a movie. Save your dollars and RENT "Shaun of the Dead". Not bad, but not really worth the full ticket price either. *Day Fifteen Shut down in Squamish!!!! Actually, it wasn’t that bad. For sure the only frustrating day of my trip. For the life of me I couldn’t keep my feet on the rock. I later learned that I could blame it on my shoes (supposedly la sportiva rubber doesn’t do so well out there). My day ended on a slab climb (not my forte) which I thought was an .8. It takes a lot to get me frustrated. When I do, It usually means time to stop. So we did….THEN fern told me it was a 10c slab, NOT an 8. Well Shit! I DON’T climb 10c slabs…and I just did! No wonder I was so frustrated! I felt better. Watched the debates at the brewpub that eve in squamish. SO kind of them to put it on for me. Interesting to watch the reactions of the Canadians around me….more interesting than the debate itself to be quite honest. *Day Sixteen Belay from the car day in squamish!! Actually, due to my sketchiness I decided to honor peter croft's statement of tr'ing being the purest form of climbing. So it was all about top roping. Never done more than 6-7 pitches in a day that I can recall. Goal…10 (downclimbing included). Short climbs, but got my ten in. To my surprise I actually felt I could get a bunch more in had I wanted. I sent (on TR) a 10d/11a slab as my 10th pitch. Again, considering I do not know how to climb slabs and how well the climb went for me, I decided to end my trip on a good note . I look forward to going back to squamish. I’m curious to try more routes and see what comes of it. Good weather to do the Chief would be nice as well. Nice dinner at Snoboys house with fern and dru later that evening. +Day Seventeen Bus from Vancouver to Seattle airport. Went through customs and the fellow asked me as I walked away…”are you carrying any marijuana leaves with you today?” I thought he was gonna bring the dogs out! I told him I smoke and maybe the “stale” smell from the cigs are lingering. Damn, I didn’t even think about all the folks around me smokin pot for the last 2 ½ weeks and how the smell might have seeped into my coat. Got the full on hand bag search in the airport, even tho my coat was tucked away in a pack. Yes, this was long…but so was the trip! Again, a big thanks to those who helped me out in any way. I will try to scan some pictures in the near furture. Until Next year!

It might be my mystery chair which I was going to pass on the ownership to AlpineK. You two can duke it out.

Hey mike, I just noticed you are from MN also. Did they get ripped off at VE? Where are you going to be working and have access to proforms? I would suggest checking up at Thrifty Outfitters (midwest mountaineering) if you havent already. You never know, the person who stole them could very well bring em to the store to sell. I wont be there for the next month. Otherwise I work up in thrifty every wed day. Stop by and say hi!

so sweet of you squid! Unfortunately they are a size 42, fairly new so probly not too stretched out and ready to fit your feet, mike. I will still bring 'em out with me. I will be in lworth for the rope up, smith for love fest, and later up in squamish. I just cleaned them today! Squid, you still interested?

im planning on being there thurs sometime. just look for uncle tricky hanging out on his hammock.

Im up late and no one is in chat?!?!?! Hurry! Hurry! I might not last long.

well, it aint no mountain AND I have no idea what we were going to climb,but dont you think that day in Jtree was quite a dud Mike? ok, well it ended nicely. Quite the goose chase to get to the fun, tho.

I believe so JayB. Thats when I plan on being in town for it! aaahhhh! Vacation!

Frozen barfies are worse fer sure!!!!!! *insert puking gremlin*

climbing partner backed out on Friday night. Grrrrr! Im watching my neighbors bed and breakfast, so I worked in the mornings. Watched some movies. Crocheted. Cleaned Started the book, The Notebook Bike Ride Bouldering traverse...kicked my ass to failure...tested out some endurox. Nasty shit, but it seemed to do the trick. Suprise call from a good friend at 7:30 Monday morning..."Lets go climbing" . It was a picture perfect day. Usually when I climb with this particular person I get my ass kicked and work REALLY hard to push myself. For the first time, in a LOOOONG time I felt I wasnt climbing for results. I did what I could, flailed some, had some great successes, etc. but it didnt matter. I was just thrilled to be out on such a great day. Cheap chinese dinner and a late movie ("before sunset") before getting my ass home and to bed. Oh ya...and I fell down my stairs. What a klutz! I swear I shouldnt leave my house before I head out there or I might injure myself again.