dr._jay

well dwayner, it seems to me that an empty campsite without anyone to bother sounds pretty good. of course where we go is entirely subject to change, but the original date got enough support that we should keep it the same. unless anyone else had other ideas. discuss...

hey jk, how blasphemous of you to take the new order in vain. i expect to find them laughing.

so i called to reserve the group site at bridge creek and they told me that the place is no longer staffed after the middle of october so we can't get access to the site. we can use the regular bridge creek site but there's no water or toilet facilities and no one to clean up after us. we can also get to the 8-mile site but there's not much parking. it sounds like we can have the place to ourselves without anyone to watch out for--not a bad deal if i do say so myself.

well the first hard part is picking a date and scoring the site. leavenworth definitely has the majority opinion and last year's site was sweet. if there's a consensus then i'll make the call. then we can move on to all of beck's big ideas.

but more commonly as a complication of sickle cell disease, or even a malfunctioning penis pump.

the route has been getting lots of attention lately, and along with it plenty of traffic. we spent as much time waiting around as we did climbing. the route is a long meandering mostly bolted line with a few gear placements, short pitches and some scattered fun moves, but far from the instant classic i was led to believe from the hype. any day spent on the chief is a good one in my opinion, but if you've already got a hit list i wouldn't put this one at the top instead of something else. like angel's crest, for example, which has pretty short cruxes and great position. [ 09-03-2002, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

there's a good garment repair shop on fremont avenue at the corner of fremont and motor. just look for all the ballet clothes in the window but don't be fooled, they do a fine job.

anyone out there have a day to blow off tomorrow and get on some granite? anyone? drop me a line. Jay

they work well enough but as already said are hard to use with a 4 aider setup. it works allright but is just more friggin around and when aiding the less steps the better. however when jugging recently with aiders that kept coming off i found it to be a pain in the ass. if i hadn't already sold them i'd consider keeping them for just that purpose.

hey michael, check your pm's

30 bucks for the pair, they retail at close to that each. whatta deal, 2 for the price of 1!

used one climb only, they're pretty slick but just don't work for me.

i hear he was rapelling and something went wrong with his rappel device, whether it was equpment failure or operator error i don't know, but the fall was pretty far. he was slowed down by the rope and had some very serious rope burns but it wasn't a free fall and he landed on his pack which cushioned the blow. it was a 20-something guy and i guess he'll be allright. also he was climbing with a doctor, don't know if that made any difference but its always handy to have one along just in case...

the trail across snow lakes is no problem. went up yesterday and did the hike and climb then bivvied at lake vivene. i'm in sorry shape from too much work and not enough play recently and the hike kicked my ass, but we still made it up. the lower pitches of the route go fast but i can't vouch for the upper ones since we managed to lose our way by not paying attention and ended up doing some sketchy route finding but somehow it worked. i can't recommend it but we left a sling for the pedulum move if anyone is interested. we only had a day pass and had no problems, but we did have a park pass for snow creek that came in handy. and believe it or not, there actually was a friendly ranger at the lot but he didn't hang around long and could have easily been avoided. and one more thing--the mosquitoes are so fucking bad right now so definitely plan accordingly. thumbs up to the lemon eucalyptus stuff from rei. [ 07-11-2002, 09:37 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

hey v, what time are you gathering?

hey juan, i've got a sweet car rack i'll trade you.

golden gardens is in ballard north of the locks. head west down 85th or along the water on seaview past stone gardens.

we did the NBC yesterday and the route is in great shape. the snow was firm on the approach for fast travel and minimal postholing and the couloir was way solid steep snow and a little ice for good measure. crampons are definitley needed but the ice tool sticks were bomber. we brought a rope but carried it the whole way, and my partner had never even swung an ice tool before. there's a little meandering at the top to get to the summit but we never needed to rope up. we travelled at a pretty relaxed pace with plenty of breaks and it was about a 12 hour car to car day. there was plenty of weather all around but it never got too bad, and we never saw another person above the lake all day--gotta love climbing during the week!

ahh erik, poor man, i feel your pain, or should i say itch. been there many times myself. i hope things stay localized where they are but if not then gimme a ring.

i've got the integral designs south col and its served me very well. its not too claustrophobic and has room for some gear as well. the fabric is pretty bomber but i've been lucky enough to avoid any major storms for some time now. definitely worth it especially at canadian prices.

so what are you giving tim a hard time for, mr. juan "bluebird skies all day" sharp?

friday--sunny and dry at the smoke bluffs and malamute saturday--sunny and dry on the chief sunday--gray and dry (and unfortunately very crowded) on the apron until 3 or 4 when the rain finally came endless canadian hospitality endless entertainment by ray a guest appearance by fred a toast with alpineK after his ski tour many beers at howe sound pub--too many for some, eh crack? a bird's eye view of a crazy rollover car crash in front of the parking lot (hey dru, do you know what happened? i'm sure you were down and out by then...) all you can eat sushi in vancouver for $19 cdn what do the weathermen know? especially here in the northwest. squamish rocks!

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the court finally caught up with me months later after i already missed my date but i talked with an intern a the u.s. attorney's office and bitched about the whole thing some more. the guy was really cool though and agreed that the whole thing was bullshit anyway. he cut my fine in half so it cost me 50 bucks and nothing goes on my record.

its a good thing for officer tool that nick space wasn't around this weekend, otherwise there really would have been trouble. i don't think its over yet for our hero...