dr._jay

well the first hard part is picking a date and scoring the site. leavenworth definitely has the majority opinion and last year's site was sweet. if there's a consensus then i'll make the call. then we can move on to all of beck's big ideas.

but more commonly as a complication of sickle cell disease, or even a malfunctioning penis pump.

the route has been getting lots of attention lately, and along with it plenty of traffic. we spent as much time waiting around as we did climbing. the route is a long meandering mostly bolted line with a few gear placements, short pitches and some scattered fun moves, but far from the instant classic i was led to believe from the hype. any day spent on the chief is a good one in my opinion, but if you've already got a hit list i wouldn't put this one at the top instead of something else. like angel's crest, for example, which has pretty short cruxes and great position. [ 09-03-2002, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

there's a good garment repair shop on fremont avenue at the corner of fremont and motor. just look for all the ballet clothes in the window but don't be fooled, they do a fine job.

anyone out there have a day to blow off tomorrow and get on some granite? anyone? drop me a line. Jay

i hear he was rapelling and something went wrong with his rappel device, whether it was equpment failure or operator error i don't know, but the fall was pretty far. he was slowed down by the rope and had some very serious rope burns but it wasn't a free fall and he landed on his pack which cushioned the blow. it was a 20-something guy and i guess he'll be allright. also he was climbing with a doctor, don't know if that made any difference but its always handy to have one along just in case...

the trail across snow lakes is no problem. went up yesterday and did the hike and climb then bivvied at lake vivene. i'm in sorry shape from too much work and not enough play recently and the hike kicked my ass, but we still made it up. the lower pitches of the route go fast but i can't vouch for the upper ones since we managed to lose our way by not paying attention and ended up doing some sketchy route finding but somehow it worked. i can't recommend it but we left a sling for the pedulum move if anyone is interested. we only had a day pass and had no problems, but we did have a park pass for snow creek that came in handy. and believe it or not, there actually was a friendly ranger at the lot but he didn't hang around long and could have easily been avoided. and one more thing--the mosquitoes are so fucking bad right now so definitely plan accordingly. thumbs up to the lemon eucalyptus stuff from rei. [ 07-11-2002, 09:37 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

hey v, what time are you gathering?

golden gardens is in ballard north of the locks. head west down 85th or along the water on seaview past stone gardens.

we did the NBC yesterday and the route is in great shape. the snow was firm on the approach for fast travel and minimal postholing and the couloir was way solid steep snow and a little ice for good measure. crampons are definitley needed but the ice tool sticks were bomber. we brought a rope but carried it the whole way, and my partner had never even swung an ice tool before. there's a little meandering at the top to get to the summit but we never needed to rope up. we travelled at a pretty relaxed pace with plenty of breaks and it was about a 12 hour car to car day. there was plenty of weather all around but it never got too bad, and we never saw another person above the lake all day--gotta love climbing during the week!

ahh erik, poor man, i feel your pain, or should i say itch. been there many times myself. i hope things stay localized where they are but if not then gimme a ring.

i've got the integral designs south col and its served me very well. its not too claustrophobic and has room for some gear as well. the fabric is pretty bomber but i've been lucky enough to avoid any major storms for some time now. definitely worth it especially at canadian prices.

so what are you giving tim a hard time for, mr. juan "bluebird skies all day" sharp?

friday--sunny and dry at the smoke bluffs and malamute saturday--sunny and dry on the chief sunday--gray and dry (and unfortunately very crowded) on the apron until 3 or 4 when the rain finally came endless canadian hospitality endless entertainment by ray a guest appearance by fred a toast with alpineK after his ski tour many beers at howe sound pub--too many for some, eh crack? a bird's eye view of a crazy rollover car crash in front of the parking lot (hey dru, do you know what happened? i'm sure you were down and out by then...) all you can eat sushi in vancouver for $19 cdn what do the weathermen know? especially here in the northwest. squamish rocks!

the court finally caught up with me months later after i already missed my date but i talked with an intern a the u.s. attorney's office and bitched about the whole thing some more. the guy was really cool though and agreed that the whole thing was bullshit anyway. he cut my fine in half so it cost me 50 bucks and nothing goes on my record.

its a good thing for officer tool that nick space wasn't around this weekend, otherwise there really would have been trouble. i don't think its over yet for our hero...

but we did so good at the last trivia nite, especially if our team captain uncle tricky is there.

yes verve, i stand corrected. the glen is only the tip of the escarpment, and personally i think it gets much better up north. mt. nemo, rattlesnake, and buffalo point all kick ass and lion's head, which as you say is as good as it gets. and erik, to translate 725 km. is equal to alot of goddamn rocks to climb.

the escarpment is pretty much a large bouldering area with routes spread out over a large wooded area. its a multi-use area with hiking trails and picnic tables and it runs right along the niagara river. they closed the bigger walls to roped climbing probably at least 10 years ago due to some accidents but then it was rediscovered as a bouldering spot so i can imagine there are many areas in the woods that get trampled and rocks getting cleaned in the attempt to find new lines. here's a online guide if anyone is interested:http://vantek-corp.com/glen

yes joe, i have to agree with the above responses as well, but at least in boulder you are very close to some awesome country. get out of the city and into the mountains and you will not be sorry. head to nederland, ward, eldora, rollinsville, pinecliff, gold hill, lyons, the list goes on and on. you will find that you can escape the bullshit of boulder pretty quickly and there is a lifetime of rock within a couple hours so you really can't go wrong. as long as you don't miss the ocean...

hey ray i think you should take the bet cuz i wannna be a witness. that's full entertainment value.

one thing to make sure of is that the toe of your plastic boot (generally bigger than a leather boot) fits well into the toepiece of your crampon. i had some serious issues on a recent trip when the straps get a little wet and loosened, so the boot slipped right out from the front. and it was even more of a pain in the ass when i was spacing out and didn't even realize it right away and had to do that much more snow slogging.

sounds like it was a fine time indeed, but due to the huge dump of heavy snow and the unplanned bivi in yakima we were forced to scope out the possibilities for the eastern washington pub club, and i nominate susie's right across from the motel 6. what better place could you find for resting up during the 2 day drive home from steven's pass?

at least you made it to the city today--those of us stuck on the other side were not so fortunate, but we definitely had some good adventure. the skiing was wild, with snow so deep it was over my head at times in the trees, but it also was pretty damn heavy from the warm weather so we had to break trail going downhill. and when you factor in the 2 day drive home its a bit more than i was planning on from a trip to steven's. i think i'll stay home for awhile...

jeg vil sit di slikker hendes pedder. tak, skal du have. [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: dr. jay ]