dr._jay

the roof moves are bomber, but the route is too short. bob dylan at vantage is a pretty spicy little number, too, but my vote still goes to fat city crack at lumpy ridge.

thanks fellas.

E. Normus? that guy owes me money!

i've got some friends headed to vancouver this weekend and they're looking for some good things to do and a good place to stay. anyone have any good tips? and they also want to know where the cannabis cafe is. thanks.

also don't miss out on hemingway wall--many classic lines and a breeze of an approach. the trip out to wonderland is definately worth it too. the first pitch of solid gold is great, especially since its pretty damn intimidating when you're at the bottom looking up. its right next to figures and the crux looks pretty funky, but after watching a party of three take turns doing huge whippers and have an epic struggle i never got a chance myself because it got dark. and i agree with all the talk about illusion dweller--what a great crack, just make sure you have enough daylight to finish. its a pretty exciting crux in the dark and cleaning in the dark is no fun at all, especially when you get near the ground. you really can't have a bad time at josh unless you try rreally hard.

also don't miss out on hemingway wall--many classic lines and a breeze of an approach. the trip out to wonderland is definately worth it too. the first pitch of solid gold is great, especially since its pretty damn intimidating when you're at the bottom looking up. its right next to figures and the crux looks pretty funky, but after watching a party of three take turns doing huge whippers and have an epic struggle i never got a chance myself because it got dark. and i agree with all the talk about illusion dweller--what a great crack, just make sure you have enough daylight to finish. its a pretty exciting crux in the dark and cleaning in the dark is no fun at all, especially when you get near the ground. have a great time.

the halos and difficulty with night vision are usually temporary but that is a relative term that varies from person to person. i had halos for several months but it was never too annoying for me. some people unfortunately aren't so lucky and some never have any difficulites at all so making general statements really doesn't mean much if you're someone who's badly affected, but in general things should get better with time.

they'll be demolishing both bridges on july 15th so any cars in the parking lot will be towed. after that the only access to the trailhead will involve a couple river crossings and a couple mile walk, so get your routes done early.

my vision came out as good as it was with contacts, and so far i'm still a few years away from reading glasses. according to the eyes docs they say you will probably need reading glasses a few years earlier than before the surgery, but the distance vision will be unchanged. i hear the fix is permanent but it is new enough that long term effects and studies are not well known at this point. but the years i'm having right now not worrying about galsses or contacts are pretty damn nice, and i haven't been above 14,000 feet so i can't say much about altitude effects. and by the way, as i was driving through conifer last week i could see very clearly--i love it out there. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

the actual procedure took no time at all, in fact they were finished by the time the pills they gave me to calm me down and kill the pain really kicked in, but it made for a pretty fun ride home. i spent the rest of the day with a pretty wierd buzz on but couldn't really see anything and it felt like someone poured sand in my eyes. but by the next day i drove myself to my 24 hour follow-up appt. and was back at work the following day. my eyes felt pretty dry for awhile like i slept in my contacts without any eye drops, but it got better quickly and now i don't have any issues.

i had it done a couple years ago and its been great--no complaints whatsoever. the key really is the shape of your eyes and why your vision is bad. i was pretty near sighted but without astigmatism, so when they mapped my eye i was told it was a good shape and had a very high predictability of success. astigmatism or other irregularities make it a little less predictable with more chance of complications, but everyone is different. you will always hear about the horror stories out there but just be sure you get a good doctor that has done alot of procedures with a high rate of success. if you want a name or have any other questions just let me know. good luck, Jay

there really is no withdrawl from pot like with alcohol or pills, but i have known plenty of folks who tend to get grumpy when the levels start to fall...

at a recent border crossing they wiped down my car with these little handi-wipe cloths and then were able to look for traces of pot, coke, and probably several other drugs. this then led to some lengthy questioning and was a real pain in the ass. its easy enough to explain away traces of THC when you're clean, but the serious shakedown certainly isn't worth it, especially when you're going to somelace where it seems like the locals are so generous and friendly.

yonder mountain tomorrow night at the showbox. it'll be a great show!

there are many sweet routes with very easy access right off the transcanada highway within 10 miles east of golden. was just there last week and the conditions were very warm, but the bluebird days and awesome position more than made up for the tricky pro. lady killer, riverview, essendale and pretty nuts all looked classic and fat, we did essendale right and it was the shit. stop by gibralter wall outside of canal flats on the way, its 4 pitches tall with as many lines as you want, with a great bivi site and easy approach. golden's a good time, be sure to give yourself enough days to enjoy it all. cheers.

it looks like the modification basically turns the grigri into a soloist. i've done alot of pitches with one from wren industries and the rope issues are the same as everyone had been talking about with the grigri. you either struggle with the weight of the hanging rope or take it all with you. i also use a slip knot for backups like wallstein said and it works well. the only major difference is you have to use a chest harness, but it really doesn't get in the way much and you forget about it when you're climbing. [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

most (>95%) of all shoulder dislocations are anterior, meaning that a lateral force is applied to the head of the humerus (the part that sits in the shoulder joint) while the arm is out away from the body. the head slips forward out of the joint space and ends up in front and below of the shoulder when looking straight on. its pretty easy to diagnose because you can usually feel the round end of the humerus sitting in front where its not supposed to be. also the now empty joint feels hollow and even concave where the bone came from. sometimes its not so straightforward if there is big shoulder muscles but if you're noct convinced the shoulder is dislocated then it probably isn't. nerve damage can be assesed by checking strength and sensation in the hand and fingers.also the deltoid should be checked because the nerve that goes to it is the most commonly injured one. if there is any loss of function the quicker the shoulder can be relocated the better. fractures are pretty uncommon and usually not significant if they happen. the key to any successful reduction is adequate muscle relaxation, so unless you've got some pretty big guns in your first aid kit this will be the limiting factor. no amount of tugging and pulling will get a shoulder back in if the muscles are too tense. using gentle movements and slow, gradual increases in force, the idea is to pull the head of the humerus over the rim of the shallow cup and back into the normal joint space. there are many methods or reduction but the general idea is all the same, it just depends on which ones you've seen or used before and how much pain the patient is in. the easiest and most gentle one especially for people with no experience uses gravity to do the work so you can't do any additional damage by pulling the wrong way. the patient has to get themselves laying face down on something high enough in the air to allow the arm to hang straght down, like a fallen tree or rock. then grab something heavy (like a pack)or better hang it from the arm with a sling, and relax. this one is harder with buff patients and also usually takes the most time, but it also requires the least amount of experience. a little medial pressure on the bottom of the shoulder blade can help align the joint space better so it doesn't take as much force to realign things. once the joint is back in place it can be prety easy to slip out again becasue the ligaments are so loose so its important to keep the arm down by the body, and it can be easily stabilized this way without hindering the ability to get around. now i'll just take a moment for a little disclaimer: all i'm trying to do here is give you all a little more information about a relatively common injury. it isn't a lesson plan so use it at your discretion. this being said i hope you never have to do it yourself but it never hurts to have as many tricks up your sleeve as you can remember. and please don't sue me if something goes wrong. Cheers, Jay [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

why do canadians like to have sex doggy style? so they can both watch hockey

come now kids, haven't most of you graduated from high school by now? all this fuss over where to drink beer? there's plenty to go around so you can go drink wherever you please. it is unfortuante that there is no consensus this week but that is no reason to sit home and pout. drink in issaquah, drink in tacoma, hell drink in your own backyard.

right on, dwayner, i couldn't think of a more fitting alpine buddy. erik is an excellent partner to have in the mountains (i don't know about effortless though, with the way he grunts and curses while climbing) or while drinking or partying or road tripping or spraying or, well, you get the idea. here's to ya, e-dog!

hey dwayner, what's with the huff? no need to sound bitter. maybe you just need a little estes for your roople. (and by the way this isn't an offer)hope to see you wherever the tap's flowing. cheers

one of my friends in thailand had more than his share of intestinal distress while we were there, and for those of you who have been know how bad it can get. so one day he's climbing on the beach during a pretty nasty strech of the runs when nature calls. and since the shitters are sometimes are a long way off, he runs into the jungle, drops his pants and squats over a hole when "crack!", the log he's standing on breaks and he falls down on all the sharp rocks. needless to say he had some pretty interesting cuts and scrapes to show for it, and since everyone climbs shirtless down there he was quite a star because it only took about a day for every climber to hear about it.

well right on, ehmmic, sounds like the ecuadorian version of pub club is pretty nice and all, but now that our original version has moved up to the big city on capitol hill you can't hold a candle to it. i can't speak for the beginning of the evening but by the time i showed up things were in full swing. and it didn't even take chris' climbing game to get things rolling, since it was nowhere in sight. everyone was having a fine time, but i couldn't understand why people were pretending to want to leave early. there were plenty of new faces and most everyone managed to stay at least until midnight--by the way i hope none of you turned into pumpkins on the way home. icegirl was an excellent addition to the mix, and for the record is far better looking than ray for those of you who thought they were the same. i'm not sure where the spaceman alchemist came from--i initially thought he was a climber, and after hearing some of his stories i wouldn't be surprised if he's done some first ascents on mars or something--but he was interesting to talk to nonetheless. and if you're out there reading this, please let me know when all that galactic stuff you were talking about is going to happen because i'm following you to atlantis, it sounds like you know the way. and to all of you who didn't make it for whatever reason, don't worry because there will be plenty more. cheers

but erik's truck also has a nice roomy cab, its great place for a party.

if anyone is looking for some fine pre-pub club action tonight in ballard, there is a good show at the tractor tavern tonight. black dog, a bunch of kick-ass stoner musicians from the mountains of colorado are in town for a night. check it out!