dr._jay

it pretty much puts a big buzzkill on the end of a great climb, and for what purpose? it definitely makes my non-climbing family much more nervous about my future trips when all they see are the epics. and i too want to know the answer to matt's question: why did no one mention that they really liked it?

hey dale, what about the good part of the story when you're hanging around with the beautiful blonde waiting for the tow truck? tell us about that too, please--or at least make up some stuff.

it's nice to see that the safety meeting was so well attended. those pub clubbers are so concientous that way.

sounds like a very nice first trip together indeed. you guys must really have some good juju together. i can just imagine what's next on the list. its still sending weather out there, but don't feel bad juan, you can do some pretty cool shit with legos and play-doh. cheers.

so which ballard/fremont wanker is driving?

hey dber, what route did you climb?

never mind, i lied. there's no ice. who wants to go to vantage?

any of you midweek warriors out there want to get up to lilooet this week? the reports haven't been great but there's ice to be had. drop me a line if interested. Jay

damn, mike, thanks for sharing that. i've always been impressed by the guy, now even more so since i've been reading about him since the accident. rest in peace jose.

c'mon mike, you know what a hardman he is.

got me some stylin cobras, so sharp i could use them to perform minor procedures while on belay. and sharp lookin, too.

its about half-covered right now. we had a sweet view of it--if i get around to a scanner i'll post a couple photos. anyone have one i could use?

celebrated the first day of winter with an attempt on chair peak yesterday. it was pretty slow going as there was much deep snow above source lake and snowshoes were pretty nice to have along, but once we ditched them below the east face breaking trail from the crest of the ridge to the north face was no fun at all. there was definitely ice to be had on the route but it was thin and steep and intimidating at the start. the ice was pretty nice in places and it looked like there were screw placements to be had, but i can't say for sure since i never got more than 10 feet off the ground, but at least i got a chance to play with my new tools. i'm sure there are plenty of cascade hardpeople who could scratch their way up and feel good about it but it was not to be for us so late in the day. we were rewarded once the skies cleared and it was freakin' beautiful out there, and we never saw another person other that some dudes heading to the tooth. all in all it was a great day in the mountains but with weather this good right now, i'm goin to index.

well its always something now, isn't it. i'll just throw another couple names into the mix, how about the ballard alehouse or goldie's on 45th?

someone left at pub club.

well after some very recent personal experience i can certainly attest to the utility of the clove hitch method, but damn are they hard to untie when the rope is wet. and by the way, timL if you're out there, i got some shirley beta for you.

[ 11-15-2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

cheers to a fine pub club last night, made even better by the very successful post-al's inaugaration of my new hot tub. a fine finish for the late nighters--maybe next time the turnout will be a bit better. beck you the man, we missed you last night. also i ended up with somebody's jacket, drop me a line and i'll get it back to you.

ahh yes, nothing like a good healthy buzz to grease the wheels of democracy. isn't that what the founding fathers had in mind?

hey beck, save your bribes because there won't be any camp hosts. as erik said the campgrounds offically close but they are still accessable, just without any amenities, and most importantly, no babysitters, i mean camp hosts. we'll just have to bring our own water and there won't be a shitter, and hope for few crowds.

jeez erik, sounds bad. i think you should go see a doctor right away!!!

maybe the real nick space may show up. i told him he had to be on his best behavior. we don't need no trouble from the man next weekend.

[ 10-10-2002, 07:53 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

hey sketch--not much alpine in eldo canyon but you're not far from indian peaks and rocky mountain park where there's all the alpine you want. just bring an extra set of lungs for the thin air. i've got a few guides to the area and used to live out there, drop me a line if you want any beta. enjoy.

ramuta's on 6th and stewart