dr._jay

it looks like the modification basically turns the grigri into a soloist. i've done alot of pitches with one from wren industries and the rope issues are the same as everyone had been talking about with the grigri. you either struggle with the weight of the hanging rope or take it all with you. i also use a slip knot for backups like wallstein said and it works well. the only major difference is you have to use a chest harness, but it really doesn't get in the way much and you forget about it when you're climbing. [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

most (>95%) of all shoulder dislocations are anterior, meaning that a lateral force is applied to the head of the humerus (the part that sits in the shoulder joint) while the arm is out away from the body. the head slips forward out of the joint space and ends up in front and below of the shoulder when looking straight on. its pretty easy to diagnose because you can usually feel the round end of the humerus sitting in front where its not supposed to be. also the now empty joint feels hollow and even concave where the bone came from. sometimes its not so straightforward if there is big shoulder muscles but if you're noct convinced the shoulder is dislocated then it probably isn't. nerve damage can be assesed by checking strength and sensation in the hand and fingers.also the deltoid should be checked because the nerve that goes to it is the most commonly injured one. if there is any loss of function the quicker the shoulder can be relocated the better. fractures are pretty uncommon and usually not significant if they happen. the key to any successful reduction is adequate muscle relaxation, so unless you've got some pretty big guns in your first aid kit this will be the limiting factor. no amount of tugging and pulling will get a shoulder back in if the muscles are too tense. using gentle movements and slow, gradual increases in force, the idea is to pull the head of the humerus over the rim of the shallow cup and back into the normal joint space. there are many methods or reduction but the general idea is all the same, it just depends on which ones you've seen or used before and how much pain the patient is in. the easiest and most gentle one especially for people with no experience uses gravity to do the work so you can't do any additional damage by pulling the wrong way. the patient has to get themselves laying face down on something high enough in the air to allow the arm to hang straght down, like a fallen tree or rock. then grab something heavy (like a pack)or better hang it from the arm with a sling, and relax. this one is harder with buff patients and also usually takes the most time, but it also requires the least amount of experience. a little medial pressure on the bottom of the shoulder blade can help align the joint space better so it doesn't take as much force to realign things. once the joint is back in place it can be prety easy to slip out again becasue the ligaments are so loose so its important to keep the arm down by the body, and it can be easily stabilized this way without hindering the ability to get around. now i'll just take a moment for a little disclaimer: all i'm trying to do here is give you all a little more information about a relatively common injury. it isn't a lesson plan so use it at your discretion. this being said i hope you never have to do it yourself but it never hurts to have as many tricks up your sleeve as you can remember. and please don't sue me if something goes wrong. Cheers, Jay [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

itemizing your deductions only pays off if they add up to more than the standard deduction, which is around $4500 bucks this year. so unless you've got other deductions it probably won't be worthwhile. i'd be happy to drop them off for you though, i just saw the accountant today and need to find some more deductions for next year

i dunno, sounds like a fine rope for clipping bolts on some steep limestone. being a non-dry though you'll have to avoid dropping it in the ocean.

why do canadians like to have sex doggy style? so they can both watch hockey

come now kids, haven't most of you graduated from high school by now? all this fuss over where to drink beer? there's plenty to go around so you can go drink wherever you please. it is unfortuante that there is no consensus this week but that is no reason to sit home and pout. drink in issaquah, drink in tacoma, hell drink in your own backyard.

right on, dwayner, i couldn't think of a more fitting alpine buddy. erik is an excellent partner to have in the mountains (i don't know about effortless though, with the way he grunts and curses while climbing) or while drinking or partying or road tripping or spraying or, well, you get the idea. here's to ya, e-dog!

hey dwayner, what's with the huff? no need to sound bitter. maybe you just need a little estes for your roople. (and by the way this isn't an offer)hope to see you wherever the tap's flowing. cheers

one of my friends in thailand had more than his share of intestinal distress while we were there, and for those of you who have been know how bad it can get. so one day he's climbing on the beach during a pretty nasty strech of the runs when nature calls. and since the shitters are sometimes are a long way off, he runs into the jungle, drops his pants and squats over a hole when "crack!", the log he's standing on breaks and he falls down on all the sharp rocks. needless to say he had some pretty interesting cuts and scrapes to show for it, and since everyone climbs shirtless down there he was quite a star because it only took about a day for every climber to hear about it.

well right on, ehmmic, sounds like the ecuadorian version of pub club is pretty nice and all, but now that our original version has moved up to the big city on capitol hill you can't hold a candle to it. i can't speak for the beginning of the evening but by the time i showed up things were in full swing. and it didn't even take chris' climbing game to get things rolling, since it was nowhere in sight. everyone was having a fine time, but i couldn't understand why people were pretending to want to leave early. there were plenty of new faces and most everyone managed to stay at least until midnight--by the way i hope none of you turned into pumpkins on the way home. icegirl was an excellent addition to the mix, and for the record is far better looking than ray for those of you who thought they were the same. i'm not sure where the spaceman alchemist came from--i initially thought he was a climber, and after hearing some of his stories i wouldn't be surprised if he's done some first ascents on mars or something--but he was interesting to talk to nonetheless. and if you're out there reading this, please let me know when all that galactic stuff you were talking about is going to happen because i'm following you to atlantis, it sounds like you know the way. and to all of you who didn't make it for whatever reason, don't worry because there will be plenty more. cheers

but erik's truck also has a nice roomy cab, its great place for a party.

if anyone is looking for some fine pre-pub club action tonight in ballard, there is a good show at the tractor tavern tonight. black dog, a bunch of kick-ass stoner musicians from the mountains of colorado are in town for a night. check it out!

1999 tua megas with rainey superloop bindings 175 cm excellent condition minimal usage for 2 seasons $250 OBO

ahh yes, always the climbers dilemma, a good adventure or a good warm body to be with at the end of the day. the grass is always greener somewhere else, isn't it? more power to those of you who have found both, consider yourself lucky. and for the rest, all you can do is play the game, and hope you're getting enough of whatever you need to get you through the night. and so what if its bowling? its keeping my grandpa going and he's over 90 now.

no matter how nice your outfit is it won't do any good if its sitting in the car. i've got a great canon t70 that spent a lot of time on the ground and many trips went undocumented. i got a olympus wide angle point and shoot and the photos are pretty decent quality especially with good film or slides and i find that the camera comes along much more often. i guess you really have to decide what's more important, having the highest quality pictures or having them at all.

so i drag my ass out of bed before 5:30 a.m.-- which is no fun i assure you especially when there is no climbing to be had--to drive to the airport and find a place to park my car. what a scam that is--the cheapest place was $7/day at some run-down motel. i get to the airport to find way too many people in some very long lines. and they all seem to be happy about it! too many morning people in this world, i guess. so i pay the curbside guy a couple bucks to avoid some of the mayhem and then find a line streching across the airport just to go through the metal detector. i wait for almost an hour for the pleasure of getting a rubdown with the wand looking for everybit of metal on my person. i guess us guys don't have it so bad though, some chick in the line next to me had some metal in her bra so they kept scanning her boobs and asking her what she had in there--it was pretty funny but i wasn't in such a laughing mood by this point. just remember to leave the steel-support briefs at home. so i finally get to my gate and the plane has already left, the one guy behind the counter gives me the "sucks to be you" look and tells me i have to come back in 8 hours for the only other flight available. i got to drive all the way home in some fun seattle traffic to sleep for a few hours and do it all again, lucky me. just another example of why air travel should be avoided at all costs.so if any of you are flying for the holidays then be prepared, i feel for you, and if you're driving then more power to ya. and if you're climbing then you suck because i am jealous!have a fine holiday whatever you do and now i gotta run so i don't miss the plane again.Cheers. [ 12-21-2001: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

hey michelle, does that mean vodka shots instead of whiskey?

ahh yes, nothing like jonesing to get high to bring out the true creativity in a person. either that or an injury, but that's no fun to talk about. guess there's just something about earth bong hits out in the wilderness when nothing else will work.

hey sean, what's with the new signature? you lost track after too many smokes? other than the fact that you ARE a dork, i mean. [ 12-17-2001: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

anyone know much about these? i saw an olympus for $190 on amazon.com and it looks like a good deal, but i'm a bit clueless about them.

back to the swiss?

oh come now erik, you big stud. you expect us to believe that PG version? tell us what really happened...or at least make up some shit.

you too sean. and have fun driving back. i thought going to tacoma was bad. ouch.

nice idea, though, but far too complex for my non-computer brain to figure out. oh well...

hey sean and other seattleites, what time is the posse heading south? i can get started whenever since i aint workin today. sorry to those of you who are, just more cause to drink tonight. woo hoo.