genepires

Mark, I thought you were done with alpine ventures?

damn, that is one bad ass climbing day. Amazing.

I didn't mean to be scathing in my post and for that I apologize. My point that I didn't get across is that this post is a great service to us, especially for the west side people. Keeping us informed of the pass conditions so we don't waste our time driving over to find it closed. NOt just this time of year, but we got reports from road closures in the summer time. Sure this info is available in other places, but it is offerd freely to us as a act of goodwill. And these guys bust his chops over things he has no control over. If they have issues, they should take it up with someone who can change it and not risk this resource. Of all the waste of data on this website, this info is valuable. Lets not lose it is all I am asking. I would imagine the Methow is usually empty this time if year. I would also think that their economic model would allow for this cyclical environment. They may very well be hurting economically but people are hurting everywhere. Maybe the methow should have gotten some lobbyists to scoop up some of the stimulus money to pay for year round pass clearing. Yes, the methow is a very amazing place. Maybe it stays so nice because the pass closes. This keeps development down and from becoming a fast food and outlet mall economy. Ya gotta be careful what you wish for. Man, I wish I could get a job over there.

you guys who think crack climbing is better than hot, half naked baristas are gay. I don't even drink coffe and I want a drink now.

now I know where to go to get some lewd "Adult" coffee.

If you don't like that the pass closes, move. The methow will prolly be better for it. Would be an interesting study to see how much money in tourism taxes is generated by Mazama, winthrop and other nearby locations and see if it is enough to justify clearing the pass as all this time of year. Don't get me wrong. I love the washington pass area and would like it to be open year round. But if we keep passing these tax limiting and reducing measures, how can we expect to pay for these things? Ohh Tim Eyman or however you spell it.

mark twite?

what are the notches on top of the pick for? Is that a drytool pick arrangement?

it is november, unfortunately..

there is not going to be too many opportunities to go out anywhere soon as it is november now. Last weekend was cold but still nice. I hope your trip next weekend works out but I would keep the erie option open if it is not at least partly sunny over there. AN extra hour drive one way is too far for a day trip? Use the windshield time to have good conversation or talk about stuff to learn for your beginner. Leavenworth has much better options for beginers than index or erie. BTW...bravo for teaching him or her how to climb. Very selfless act that we all should do more of.

dry tooling

from monroe it is 1.5 hours to leavenworth. from monroe it is 1.5 hours to erie. Are you sure that leavenworth is too far of a drive for a day trip?

the real trick would be to find a sitting service so you can go climb.

the riverside is a nice place that has rooms. About as kid friendly as a motel goes. very climber friendly. Will need a car to get to the ice park as it is some 5 miles or so away, hence the cheapest lodging factor. They offer a discount for the hot springs, but i think everyone does in that town.

or keep driving to leavenworth. MOstly sunny with a high of 42F which is actually better than last weekend which was very good also. probably a better place for beginners anyway. try roto wall or mad meadows or (heaven forbid it is empty) mountaineers dome among other fine places too.

surely he stashed his ice tools at the base and another pair midway up. The long axe is for bar fight and ruffians on the road.

"Jason Martin" book?

the best pack is the pack that fits you best. So you gotta try on lots of packs before finding the right one. You are right though that a med pack won't cut it on aconcagua due to the need to haul everything in one load on the way down. The advice on limiting the gear you haul up is good, just fit everything in a big pack and resist the temptation to bring everything like a camp chair and such. I used a old terraplane way back when on acon-choss-ua. It was a good sized pack. I like the MEC packs as they are cheap and built pretty good. I would think 5000 cubic inches is a good volume. 4000+ is also good. You probably won't need to haul boots in your pack as you should have them on from where the mules drop you off and pick up for way out. enjoy teh mtn!

hmmm. plastic nuts!

wear it till dry. (layers near body) don't get wet. (outer layers) carry home wet clothes and carry extra dry clothes. (gloves and socks) DO overnight things with a hut nearby. Do things in dry environments like the canadian rockies where things dry out easy. Casacade areas are day trips. I know this doesn't help at all but us all I got.

http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Mountain+Hardwear/idesc/WindStopper+Tech+Pant+-+Men%27s/Store/MG/item/340015/N/0 a windstopper fleece pant which look good. where have all the fleece pant manufacturer gone to? I bought one from feathered friends years ago but it looks like they don't do that anymore.

your list looks pretty good. Does the rei fleece pants have full side zips? Makes getting into and out easier. If it is difficult to put on, you won't ever use it so it is dead weight. I don't know about the Talus coldavenger expedition balaclava, but coming back from denali, I wanted to get the OR gorilla one real bad. It has lots of coverage and a normal opening for the mouth. I can't breathe through those ski masks (lots of small holes) ones. FOr your thermal tops, I have been liking the hooded types. MEC makes a good one for around $60. Nice to be able to throw the hood up real quick. http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302699173&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442627307&bmUID=1255574107504 You should drop your gear list by your guides way and get their opinion.

why not buy the new walmart brand of camming devices? I heard you can buy some rope in the hardware section too.

It probably gets climbed every year but the evidence falls out every winter when she sheds another layer of rock.

not that I am much of a BC ski expert but I have a couple ideas for you. (maybe if you posted this in the ski section, you would get expert ideas) Just outside of the mount baker ski area, there is really good BC skiing and you could head out as far as you liked, camp and do some laps. Maybe being within striking distance of the parking lot is not a great camping place, but it is a good starting place. In the mt rainier park, I would think you could find some good places in teh tattosh range. Fairly level ski approach in on a closed road and then you could camp and ski around the tattosh peaks. As far as avi goes, go when the conditions are good. Avis happen everywhere there is snow so any "low avi" locations will kill you in wrong conditions. I thought that the trail to source lake was low avi location till someone I knew died snowshoeing that way, in the trees no less. Not meaning to get all down and serious. Just stay safe. Enjoy and let us know how your trip goes.