willstrickland

'Bone: Solar Slab Gully (5.3, 4p) to Solar Slab (5.6, 6-9 pitches) can rap off of the new rap anchors on the route Johnny Vegas) Cat in the Hat (5.6+, 6p) Black Dagger (5.7+, 8 pitches including the 300' scramble) Olive Oil (5.7, 5-7p) Black Magic (5.8, 4p) Frogland (5.8-,I think we did it in 5p?)Physical Graffiti (5.7, awesome night climb with Vegas views) Tunnel Vision (5.7, Did this one in 6p?)

Hey fred, why not check out these sites, you sohuld be able to come up with a Maxim 10.5 60m for around $100 bones. The first site has 60m bi-color dry treated Maxims for $115,that's a pretty decent deal. Second site I know has 60m 10.5mm std Maxims for $93. I prefer Maxim personally.1stgearexpress.com2nd Northernmountain.com

Resolution Arete V 5.11+ Red Rocks, NV Anybody done it? Beta (free not aid) for the roof? Suggested rack? Any "wish I knew that before I did it" beta?

FRom a Zappa tune of the same title...

It's just liability concerns, and considering the litigous(sp?) society we live in, can't say I blame them. I think the Club Sport, here in PDX actually has a cafe inside that serves beer, I could be mistaken. That doesn't stop us from getting straight faded before the training session though....

D. Cramer: I won't argue with you that I may be an asshole, in fact I probably am worse than that. As for the other "assholes" that's between you and them. I don't honestly see how you can call the argument behind our actions to be "bs". You may not have liked the posturing, as many people did not, but what do you expect from people of action? Nobody is perfect, ya know? What part of "retro-bolting doesn't meet the challenge, but lowers it" is confusing? What part of "established methods at particular crags should be respected" is confusing? Those were my arguments. Hell, you want to climb that grade and aren't up to the runout, go get on ROTC or go to Smith or Exit 38 or wherever. I'm not trying to engage you in a shit-slinging contest, just kind of wondering why I should give a flying f$%*^ about what someone who bolts cracks thinks(not implying you DC). So the guy climbs hard trad routes, bully for him, but to me, that only makes it that much more confusing why he would want to eliminate an area testpiece. I don't feel in my heart that bolts "destroying" the rock is much of a concern. Grid bolting destroying aesthetics is another thing altogether. If I said putting a bolt in is destroying the environment, I'd be a big damn hypocrite because I've placed belay bolts, driven pins on aid climbs, etc. My view is to respect the traditions of the area and the climb, period. If the FA says add a bolt, or bolt the whole thing, great maybe they couldn't stop to, or ran out of bolts, or placed a now questionable fixed piece. Calling us assholes because you disagree with us is not exactly conducive to a productive discourse. I thought my views were pretty clear, if they weren't they should be now. [ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

Nice Jon! LMFAO!

In the Oregonian today: Man sentenced for calling police officer a "pig". A man was sentenced to spend two hours in a pen-enclosure with a 350lb pig for calling a law enforcement officer a pig. What happened to freedom of speech?

Captiol Reef: Winter 1999. My bro Mike from grad school, who had also worked in the area at one time, was flying in to visit and enjoy some winter desert climbing. After picking him up in Salt Lake and catching up, I start telling him about some climbs in the park including this new trad line that we could do the next day. After a winter of rotting on the east coast, Mike was keen. My rack and shoes were in my trunk where I had thrown them a few days earlier while leaving Indian Creek, so the next day we just jump in the car and drive to the crag. We hike in, I rack up, boot up, and start looking around for the end of the rope. THE ROPE, Crap! I left the damn rope, I SUCK! So hike out, drive out, grab a rope, drive back, hike in... an hour later Mike is chillin, just happy to be there and enjoying the complete silence. Possibly the worst climbing related brain fart I've had (well except the time I "z" clipped myself three times on one climb at Josh, twice on the same piece, beat that ehh).

Well, there is a newbie section to this board, that might be a place to start. There's another site with a national focus, and alot more users called (i think) rockclimbing.com. That might get you some contacts. I'd be suprised if you don't get some personal messages from users of this board offering to take you out as well. Some areas are more conducive to finding willing experienced people than others. Yos is pretty easy usually. Posting a note on the Camp 4 bulletin board might find you someone willing to lead you up an easier classic. Just hanging out and meeting people seems to be the easiest way to find a contact like that, I found partners for Lurking Fear right in my own campsite. Found partners for the Lost Arrow (who didn't speak more than about 10 words of english) in the site directly across from us. There are usually some dirtbags climbing bums desperate for a belay at any area who will take you up something in exchange for belays. They're easy to spot too. Only caution I have is to be completely honest when talking with a potential partner/leader in regard to your abilities, misrepresenting that could get you both into a bad situation.

Ahh shit, you had to play the "sexist" card. I was just about to tell you that quite a few of us will be in-res in the valley from mid May-Aug, and would probably be happy to take you out on something for a day if you're in the area. The meat of the issue, IMO, is this: You are inexperienced. You want to go on a long trip and climb. Most climbers I know are usually happy enough to take newbies climbing occasionally, after all we had to rely on more experienced people to some degree at one time. But, to essentially guide someone for several months, is not an attractive proposition to my circle of climbing friends. When I was in your situation, I found someone of similar abilities and went to do what we could safely...primarily a few weeks on the road consisting of TR-ing and bouldering, and occasionally following a pitch someone else led or leading some way easy stuff (I'm talking 4th class and 5.2). That way, we both got strong, got experience, saw alot of cool areas, and there was no "charity" involved. Nobody here (ok, almost nobody) will give you shit about wanting to learn or about simply being a female climber. It's the prospect of a 3 month charity case that people wonder about.

quote: Originally posted by alicia: New to this site, new to climbing. Looking for other climbers who are: A)better than me, B) have gear, gas $. I have a harness, shoes, bag, and kick-ass RELIABLE Trooper. Hmm, their ropes, their gear, their experience. Sounds like you're looking for a guide Alicia andmost guides I know definitely ain't paying for your gas if they're guiding you for free. As for the Tetons, mid August through about Sept 10 or so is your best bet for rock routes. All the snow that is going to melt off has done so, the crowds have thinned, and the summer afternoon thunderstorms have abated for the most part (you'll still probably want to be down by 2pm or earlier).

Jim and Herb are confirmed attendees and word on the street is that Jack has a handle on the situation as well. Rumour also has it that Dan Knugget might make an appearance.

No dude, not beer...Malt Liqour, drink six of each and you'll have no problems telling the difference. King Cobra or OE tallboys for $0.65. OE has more bang at close to 8%, but the Cobra, at around 6%, is more palatable to this bum. The best hook-up though is to cozy up to some female euro touristas, they always have a bottle of wine, campsite, etc.

Hell yeah Dave! That short track relay is sweet. me and my roomies were watching last night going "what the hell is going on here?" "is it ice derby?". That wipe-out looked nasty, smacking the wall at like 30mph, ouch! Seeing Bode just pimping through the bottom of that course was so cool, barely keeping it together, but in 5th you got nothin to lose. He just dialed those tight gates, looked incredibly light on his skis. And Dave if you used to ski jump, you're one crazy mofo. That stuff makes me cringe. Seeing that footage of the Swiss kid crashing back in Jan was sickening.

Yeah, keep believing that the left side is a death trap...leaves me a place to find solitude.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: The left side of the Apron for example. I bet you'd have the place to yourself. We did. The most solitary day I had in '00, other than the day we got shut down on Separate reality, was climbing Cold Fusion->Angel's Approach. Not a soul on the entire apron.

You know Dru, my gripes are basically the same, add the loud ass "green dragon" tour bus gapers and you got me covered. But, ten minute approach to 3000ft granite wall...can't beat that. To avoid ripoffs, take a padlock and lock shit up in a bear box. Don't want bears in the car, don't leave food/shampoo/toothpaste or anything else smelly in there. Deli prices really aren't that bad, especially when you figure in all the free crap you finagle there, or if you make a friend who works there early in the season... "hmmm, I seem to have made an extra sandwich...hey you want an extra, no charge?" Worried about mud-falcons? Climb something steep. Posers? They're everywhere, 'cept maybe back in BFE where you're climbing.

Hey f&*$ you guys! Quit encouraging people to go to the valley, there'll be enough of us down there already! Hey man, go to Josh for the summer, or Zion, yeah, that's where you really want to be, get a good tan and all.

Here ya go, read it and weep. There's a more comprehensive article in the NY times,check their website for more info. Thanks President Bush, guess that "w" stands for "worthless". Maybe "p" for puppet would be more appropriate, or "o" for "old oil money". Shithead. February 12, 2002 The Bush administration is opening the area between Canyonlands National Park and Arches National Park to oil and gas drilling, sparking a bitter disagreement over land use near Moab, Utah. The area pegged for exploration is a side canyon of Indian Creek, and the inevitable trucks, drilling equipment and newly constructed roads would come alarmingly close to some of the most popular desert climbs. According to a New York Times report, administration officials claim that visitors to the two parks will hardly notice the new activity, but national park scientists worry about the long-term effects of the industrial commotion on the fragile desert landscape. Oil derricks are not new to US federal public lands -- about 25 million acres are being leased. Though the Clinton administration had increased oil and gas leasing over previous administrations, the administration usually steered clear of areas near national parks and wilderness areas. The Bush administration, however, is reportedly pushing the boundaries to allow development within two miles of national parks. Next month, the San Rafael Swell, another climbing destination just south of Capitol Reef National Park, will also be considered for oil exploration. Those who object to the development should write to their congressional representatives. -- Pamela Emanoil

A little boy goes to his dad and asks, "What is politics?" Dad says, "Well son, let me try to explain it this way: I'm the breadwinner of the family, so let's call me capitalism. Your Mom, she's the administrator of the money, so we'll call her the Government. We're here to take care of your needs, so we'll call you the people. The nanny, we'll consider her the Working Class. And your baby brother, we'll call him the Future. Now, think about that and see if that makes sense," So the little boy goes off to bed thinking about what dad had said. Later that night, he hears his baby brother crying, so he gets up to check on him. He finds that the baby has severely soiled his diaper. So the little boy goes to his parents' room and finds his mother sound asleep. Not wanting to wake her, he goes to the nanny's room.Finding the door locked, he peeks in the keyhole and sees his father in bed with the nanny. He gives up and goes back to bed. The next morning, the little boy says to his father, "Dad, I think I understand the concept of politics now." The father says, "Good son, tell me in your own words what you think politics is all about." The little boy replies, "Well, while Capitalism is screwing the Working Class, the Government is sound asleep, the People are being ignored and the Future is in deep shit"

Why all the angst man? What did the old codger say to you? How old are we talkin here? I remember one local guide who worked in the shop at one time, he was maybe 40 and a bit of a prick, but I'm a pretty big asshole myself, so who am I to judge. That place always gave me great beta including where to seek out good FAs, had good deals for the most part, and again the equipment they were manufacturing was the best bang-for-the-buck gear I've seen. 7000ci burly haulbags with nice suspension and features for like $150. They were about to market some portledges too before they went TU. From what I've heard (hearsay no doubt) but from a reasonably knowledgeable source (business owner in the area), they had some accounting issues. Those guys were supposed to be the number one volume leader in cam sales of any individual store, so I'd say they had to be doing ok. Shame IMO, ClimbMax/Pagan has been good to me too, but I hate to see these guys bite the bullet.

Ok, I'm a little ashamed to admit this, but what the hell...you're just a bunch of climbers anyway. My best and worst pick-up line are the same: "Hey there, wanna have sex?" I tried this twice and it worked both times. Then while having a conversation with a girl I was dating at the time she says something to the effect of "Some guy I'd met through friends a few times once asked me a party, straight-up did I want to just leave the party and go have some no-attachment sex with him. If I hadn't been the driver, I'd have probably taken him up on it, it was honest, confident, and that's pretty appealing". Now a couple of months later and I'm fairly intoxicated, feeling pretty smug. I pull this line out on a liberated looking woman, and got exactly what I deserved - a slap in the face.Ahh, to be 22 again (which coincidentally was the age of the girl in grad school who used this line on me, it worked)

quote: Originally posted by allison: Hope someone will play pool! The innuendo never stops. Trask will be playing pocket pool over at Hooters.

Ah ha! You got me there Puget, didn't even look at the times. Touche' mate.