willstrickland

Spam in the AFTERNOON? WTF indeed!

I would take the time off now. I've had, from your description, the same injury in 3 fingers at different times. The last one occured late winter before a summer that I had lots of time off and big plans. I tried to just climb easy stuff on it in a "working" rehab/ let it heal. It finally got back to "normal" after 18months (of which the last 4 involved no climbing). I thought "well, I won't climb anything crimpy" or "nothing at my limit". Still, even slabs and easy routes involve crimpy, unavoidable holds from time to time. Look at it this way: If you don't take the rest and let it heal properly, it will get aggravated everytime you climb anything hard. You may be able to climb near your current limit on it, but it's unlikley that you will be able to climb hard enough, often enough, to progress because the "training stimulus" that gets you stronger will probably excaerbate the injury. You would end up climbing harder toward the end of the season by taking the time off now rather than nursing what will become a lingering injury. It's tough to take time off. But, you can always turn your focus for those couple of months to cardio, yoga, core muscles, opposing muscles groups, etc. These might even pay off more than the climbing you will miss if you don't typically address those aspects of training.

Walnuts, yes. Like em alot. Got them as a second set to complement my set of BDs and would definitely recommend them. Just be aware if you are mail ordering that the sizing is different from Stoppers. A #1 Walnut is about a #4 Stopper, and they roughly correspong from there with a #10 Walnut being the largest, roughly the same as a #13 Stopper. The DMMs smaller than that are the "Peanuts". Don't know about the Omegas. Sound somewhat similar to the Met. curve nuts, which IMO suck. Everyone I know who owns those Met. are not thrilled with 'em. $0.02

But wait...there's more. From CNN via the AP: "BAGHDAD, Iraq (CNN) -- A CBS stringer has been arrested as a suspected insurgent, U.S. military officials said Friday. The video cameraman was wounded during a firefight in northeastern Mosul between U.S. troops and insurgents Tuesday. U.S. military officials said the man's camera held footage of a number of roadside bomb attacks against American troops, and they believe he was tipped off to those attacks. A U.S. military statement said troops believe the man "poses an imperative threat to coalition forces" and that he "will be processed as any other security detainee." There was no immediate comment from CBS. One official said at least four videos in the man's camera show roadside bomb attacks on U.S. troops. All had been shot in a manner that suggested the cameraman had prior knowledge of the attacks and had scouted a shooting location in sight of the target. "The individual in question was carrying press credentials from CBS News. Military officials detained this individual and are conducting an investigation into his previous activities as well as his alleged support of anti-Iraqi insurgency activities," a U.S. military statement said Friday. The U.S. military has said that the cameraman was shot by soldiers from the 1st Battalion, 24th Infantry Regiment after it appeared to them he had a weapon. The U.S. military said the shooting occurred amid the chaos of a suicide bombing and that the cameraman was standing next to an armed insurgent at the time. U.S. troops have been fighting insurgents in Mosul almost daily. Execution-style shootings Meanwhile, the bodies of 10 civilians shot to death execution-style have been found near Baquba in northern Iraq, a hospital official said Friday. They were found Thursday inside black body bags in Balad Rooz, about 60 kilometers (37 miles) east of Baquba in Diyala province. Iraqi soldiers took the bodies to a hospital morgue late Thursday. Iraqi security forces are investigating the shootings, the doctor said. In other violence, an Iraqi police officer was killed in Baghdad and a U.S. Marine died in Falluja. That death brings to 1,544 the number of U.S. troops who have died in the Iraq war."

Had a coworker in Utah who picked up some kind of fly worm parasite in Belize. You could literally see it squirm under the skin in his calf. Doc told him to duct tape a piece of raw steak over the entry and the thing would burrow out into the steak. It worked, but was pretty damn creepy to see. Apparently it's a pretty common ailment, but I can't remember the name of the parasite.

I guess I just don't buy the "outrage" over this. Sounds like another right wing mis-direct, paint the mainstream media as the "liberal media", evade the harder questions. Where is the outrage over the Pentagon's Office of Special Plans and their selective use of (faulty) intelligence to sell the war? Where is the outrage that the same OSP had made little if any plans for the occupation? Gee, does it show? Ya think? Where is the outrage that the CPA cannot account for BILLIONS of dollars allocated for reconstruction? WTF? I work for DOD and we get questioned over $10. Where is the outrage that in spite of legislation designed to protect servicemen and their familes, financial institutions are illegally foreclosing on their mortgages while they are on the battlefield? Where is the outrage the returning Guardsmen and reservists are not having their "regular" employers uphold their employment rights? Where is the outrage over Chalabi and his shenanigans? Where is the outrage over turning the Shaivo case into politcal theatre on a pre-meditated basis (yes Sen. Martinez, everyone knows you let a staffer take the fall you lying sack of anal refuse) Where is the outrage that Dems Biden and Lieberman voted for cloture on the Bankruptcy bill, then had the fucking gall to vote against the actual bill, telling their constituents "see, we look out for you, we voted against the bill". Do they think we are that stupid? Fuck you Joe "MBNA" Biden, Sen from Delaware home of a plethora of credit card companies. Where is the outrage that the only govt official with balls enough to put an accurate number on the cost of the Iraq clusterfuck, was fired for his candor. And guess what...he was DEAD ON THE MARK with his $200B estimate. Where is the outrage that a President decries the future solvency problems with SS, but centers the debate on an issue that does nothing to address the solvency problem, refuses to put forth any concrete plan, then chastises the opposition for not putting up a counter plan (kinda hard when there is no plan to counter!) Where is the outrage when the SS road-show is spending taxpayer money to push a political agenda, excluding the general public or anyone who opposes the President's "kinda plan" from these so-called "town hall" meetings? Where is the outrage when the House Majority Leader has half his cronies under indictment, repeated ethics violations, and attempts to CHANGE THE RULES so he won't get reprimanded? Where is the outrage when Bush makes commitments and takes positions on issues during the campaigns, yet fails to live up to them? EPA CO2 regulation being the latest example. Where is the outrage when our AG supprted indefinitely detaining US CITIZENS without access to the courts or due process? Where is the outrage when the Dems complain about the repercussions of the Iraq clustefuck, yet they voted almost wholly in favor of the resolution authorizing it? The AP pays their stringers you say? Egads, what a concept. The local photog got tipped to a murder and "cooperated" by being there to record it? Sure he did. Is it a national crisis? Hardly. Eye on the ball people.

Col. Von Spanker, G-Spotter, and Rev D. Wayne Love are better avy names. (And none of those belong to me, btw).

Umm....yeah

We got that taken care of in summer

It gets a little better res than I can get off the free stuff on TerraServer, but still leaves alot to be desired for coverage up here. I had high hopes for this because I use aerial/sat photography on the job all the time.

I ain't wading into this one too far, but I did read some analysis by working photo journalists who ventured the opinion that the pics were taken with a 300mm lens (due to compression of perspective) from about a city block's distance.

T. Humar or A. Huber (who, btw has won a Piolet D'Or). Under-recognized Yank? Brian McCray who's freed 5.14, FAs on hard Alaskan walls, speed record repeats of hard El Cap and Zion routes. Bridwell was a stud in his day.

Didn't know there was film of that execution. But, I see that I am not the only one who immediately thought of that photo wrt this thread. What was signifcant or revealing about the film?

Get Harpell to translate it.

I have a frameless pack (same as BillS above) the Granite Gear Alpine Lite, and like it alot. But put more than about 30lbs in it, or a fat rack of cams w/lobes poking you in the back through the foam pad, and you will wish for a framesheet. But I also have a Lowe Alpine Mtn Attack 50, about the same size, with a removable thin plastic sheet that acts as a sort of frame. This is a good compromise, you can use it frameless or framed. Only drawback on that pack is the lack of a crampon patch and attachment system. Otherwise it's a very well thought out and simple, lightweight design. Looks like they replaced it this year with the Mtn Attack 45 Hyperlight, very similar but don't know if the framesheet is removable. They still have have the 30 and 40L versions of the reg Mtn Attack though.

Some really easy boulder problem in Joe's Valley absolutely bouted me for months. I was out there 2-3 times a week for a few months. Probably close to 50 attempts before I did it. Especially frustrating when there were harder rated problems on my warmup circuit and I'd come back to this thing after a good session of climbing things rated 3x harder and could not do it. Finally went out there one day with a friend who was climbing just under his limit on this prob. He cruised it second or third try. I did it right afterwards.

Damn, a little young for a heart attack eh? Maybe too much nose candy. He was a funny dude. A Mitch joke that comes to mind: "I got me an ant farm once. Them little fellers didn't grow shit."

I have this pack and like it. I think Ken4rd also has one. If you need a big capacity pack, but also want to use that pack on-route, take a look at the Wild Things Andinista (spectra models are back too). You could carry a week's worth of crap to basecamp, strip it down and carry it on route, etc.

Reputation and rating mostly, combined with how I am feeling that day/month/year and what my partner wants to climb. I have climbed in alot of areas, but only extensively in a few, so plenty of great choices/super classics are available most places I go. And it seems like most places have a sort of heirarchy of must-dos. "Why" is another story. Some days I just want an easy, low stress day outside on something easy. Sometimes when feeling strong I want to test myself on a route that's at my physical limit. Sometimes I want a "full value" adventure experience that involves suffering: 'schwacking, gnarly wide cracks, and/or runout crumbly climbing. And sometimes I just want to stay home and drink beer. Reputation is a funny thing though. Sandbags have a way of being highly recommended. These days (for another 18 months anyway) I put alot of thought into those choices because I travel 3000 miles and use up my vacation days to get some decent climbing done. And, while I can stay reasonably strong up here pulling plastic, it's still more or less climbing "off the couch" especially on cracks.

Interesting. But why a putty knife and brush? Sounds like cleaning tools to me.

Why would they not take the meat? Seal is supposed to be good eatin' and a apparently a native staple food at one time. Cheap whiskey, new snowmachine, and a new rifle...sounds like a good start (also sounds like the common things Alaskans buy when the permanent fund dividend checks come in October).

Looks like any slaughter operation, only colder. Do you eat beef, chicken, or pork? Ever seen a slaughterhouse in operation? Not really any different. How do you think they kill the cattle? Pretty much by knocking it in the skull. At least the seals don't have to live their lives in a stock pen or feedlot.

You eat them, Mr. BiPolar.

Check your PMs.

Here's a very good link to testing of the EDK: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html Also, note the links in the "Further Reading and Test Data on flat-knots" section, good test links there. Edelrid tested multiple flat knots but the interesting one in their link is the "flat" double fish. Hard to explain, but makes sense when you see it. FWIW, I use an EDK 95% of the time (had some Korean partners in the valley who insisted on flemish bend and refused to rap on the edk I'd tied).