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willstrickland

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Everything posted by willstrickland

  1. Damn, a little young for a heart attack eh? Maybe too much nose candy. He was a funny dude. A Mitch joke that comes to mind: "I got me an ant farm once. Them little fellers didn't grow shit."
  2. I have this pack and like it. I think Ken4rd also has one. If you need a big capacity pack, but also want to use that pack on-route, take a look at the Wild Things Andinista (spectra models are back too). You could carry a week's worth of crap to basecamp, strip it down and carry it on route, etc.
  3. Reputation and rating mostly, combined with how I am feeling that day/month/year and what my partner wants to climb. I have climbed in alot of areas, but only extensively in a few, so plenty of great choices/super classics are available most places I go. And it seems like most places have a sort of heirarchy of must-dos. "Why" is another story. Some days I just want an easy, low stress day outside on something easy. Sometimes when feeling strong I want to test myself on a route that's at my physical limit. Sometimes I want a "full value" adventure experience that involves suffering: 'schwacking, gnarly wide cracks, and/or runout crumbly climbing. And sometimes I just want to stay home and drink beer. Reputation is a funny thing though. Sandbags have a way of being highly recommended. These days (for another 18 months anyway) I put alot of thought into those choices because I travel 3000 miles and use up my vacation days to get some decent climbing done. And, while I can stay reasonably strong up here pulling plastic, it's still more or less climbing "off the couch" especially on cracks.
  4. Interesting. But why a putty knife and brush? Sounds like cleaning tools to me.
  5. Why would they not take the meat? Seal is supposed to be good eatin' and a apparently a native staple food at one time. Cheap whiskey, new snowmachine, and a new rifle...sounds like a good start (also sounds like the common things Alaskans buy when the permanent fund dividend checks come in October).
  6. Looks like any slaughter operation, only colder. Do you eat beef, chicken, or pork? Ever seen a slaughterhouse in operation? Not really any different. How do you think they kill the cattle? Pretty much by knocking it in the skull. At least the seals don't have to live their lives in a stock pen or feedlot.
  7. You eat them, Mr. BiPolar.
  8. Here's a very good link to testing of the EDK: http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html Also, note the links in the "Further Reading and Test Data on flat-knots" section, good test links there. Edelrid tested multiple flat knots but the interesting one in their link is the "flat" double fish. Hard to explain, but makes sense when you see it. FWIW, I use an EDK 95% of the time (had some Korean partners in the valley who insisted on flemish bend and refused to rap on the edk I'd tied).
  9. I thought the one on the right was the nasaly whiny "The nanny" chick from TV.
  10. I have Alphas and wear the same size in them as my Adidas or FiveTen street shoe. I have a low volume foot, narrow heel. With superfeet insoles and a very thin liner+smartwool mtneer socks, they are a perfect fit. With the stock insoles, they are a little more roomy (if you have a high volume foot, you would probably find them snug if using thick aftermarket insoles). One thing though, mine are from before they switched the inner boot to thermofits. I don't know how that altered the fit, if at all. Good boots, I like em.
  11. Ask your wife if she has one of those batt operated sweater shaver gizmos. They are made to do exactly what you're asking.
  12. Durability = weight. That is simplistic, but at the core of things, that's the tradeoff. Nevertheless, I've not had a durability problem with even superlight shells. Back in about '96 I bought a Marmot 3 layer G-tex (this was way before Paclite and XCR) shell that was their ultralight option at the time. It weighs around 20oz. I wore it everyday for 5months on the AT, worked in it for a year in a hoods in the woods program, and still use it as my hardshell. Point being, even the light stuff is reasonably tough. Difference in brands is going to be mainly cut and features. These days the fabrics are the same, hell they are probably stitched in the same factory in China. That said, Arc'teryx, IMO has the nicest features and cut. I've been very happy with my Marmot. You will pay handsomely for their 9(rc-terx) attention to detail. One thing to consider: Will you be using this shell with a harness often? If so, you might look specfically for a model with a shorter length. I'd say bottom line: Brand is insignificant. Find one in the weight/features range/price you want.
  13. Forget brand and yuppie factor, the real question is why so many people buy NEW cars. Drive it off the lot and it's depreciated 10%. In 3 years, it's depreciated 40%. So buy a 3-5 year old car, and you pay half price for a ride with 75% of the lifespan remaining. Current ride: 91 Suby wagon, bought in 2002 for $3000. I've put maybe $1500 in maintenance into the rig in 3 years. Hatchback door was smashed in a hit and run in a parking lot, insurance totaled the car and gave me $2500 (nothing wrong with the car, I put a hatch from the junkyard on it for $200 and still drive it). There's only 160k on the clock, she's good for another 40k, which should last me at least until I leave Alaska. So I've got $2000 in a car that's given me 50k miles so far and gets over 25mpg loaded down on the hwy. My rule: No new(used) cars until 1. Student loans are paid off and 2. Alaska is a distant memory. The good ol Lesbaru has been from PDX to Atlanta in a virtually non-stop 54 hour solo push (Three 2 hour naps). From Atl to Miami and back, up to DC, back to ATL, then to Yos and onward to Alaska. I hope she will take me and my junk to wherever I land next.
  14. You folks should all go read Don's series of posts about MEC in the Serratus thread here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...e=0&fpart=3 After all his experience, he knows the score. It's a similar case.
  15. Yes, the Supremes rules 7-2 in favor of Cheney around this time last year. You might remember the hubbub around that about Scalia not recusing himself from the case. The two lower courts that heard the case had ruled against the administration. I can understand redacting some sensitive info about the nations energy vulnerabilities, etc. But not releasing any of it stinks of backroom cronyism IMO, and is not democratic in the slightest. No idea about Hillary Care memos. I do find it humorous that the GOP talking point re: SS has been "The Dems are just obstructionist, they aren't offering any plan or working for a bipartisan solution". Yet, when the whole Hillary Care debate was going down the GOP blasted it, played obstructionist, didn't offer an alternative, and continued to bash it well after it was a dead issue.
  16. I have an older pair of Moonstone pants that were only made for a year or two. They were the early version of schoeller extreme (I think). It's a medium thick softshell with a very thin fleece laminanted to it. I'd buy several more pair if I could. These fit me better than anything, have big side zips, but not full length (no zips under your waistbelt, ankles). Great for colder weather, or skinny people who get cold easily. Last year I picked up some Gamma LTs (tweave fabric), the ones AlpineDave cites above. These are unlined, lightweight, and ideal for year round use if paired with long underwear. Very nicely constructed, and the tweave fabric seems to be very good stuff so far. But, Arcy'teryx cuts them pretty slim and I'm almost exactly mid-way between sizes. Maybe I'll pick up another pair the next size up. Mine are a very light almost white color, much better than black (how much sun do you get in the winter anyway?). Next pair might be from Beyond Fleece. The custom fit/features/fabric choices for the same price as "off the rack" stuff from other manufacturers is appealing.
  17. Since you first wrote that, I've seen (well, read about) several actions on both sides that suggest you're right on. Chavez talkin' a bunch of smack, cozying up to Castro and Iran, etc. That Post-Gazette article has a good summary. I too would be suprised if Chavez is still alive at the end of GWBs term. The fact that these little Napoleans feel like the biggest way to threaten us is through our energy supply, points to an immediate need to ramp up alternative energy infrastructure. We could spend another $200 billion killin' folks, or build $200B worth of solar, wind, nookular, and hydro sources (enviros need to spend less time bitching about the dams, and more time developing fish passage measures that work) and mandate a minimum 5mpg fleet wide improvements. A concentrated, fast track program over 5 years could achieve great things. Our country has tackled huge projects in short time frames before. Hell, the AlCan Highway was put in place in only 8 months back in 1942!! Of course when it was initially completed there were occasional 90 degree turns and 25% grades, but hey...they got the road in and tweaked the problems over the following years. It looks like it's going to take another serious energy crisis ala 1970s for US leaders to develop a vision for the future energy policy of this nation. Cheney's energy task force was a joke, and the fact that they won't release the details from that, even breaking the law to keep from revealing it, is telling (the court has ordered that Cheney's office release the info and they refuse to comply). This is democracy? As capitalists, we should all know that investement in capital equipment/expenditures (e.g. alt. energy infrastructure in this case), will pay us back many times over. Seems pretty simple, would we rather invest in our own country or keep giving away a significant % of our GDP to OPEC and fighting wars to protect continuity of the oil supply? But what did we expect when we elected oil men? (No, I didn't vote for these clowns if there was any confusion).
  18. willstrickland

    SUCK

  19. willstrickland

    SUCK

    Tea bagging? Guess that explains the schwanky vest and scarves.
  20. willstrickland

    SUCK

    But he won't say where or what. Ergo, he must be tackling one of the multitude of super secret alpine hardman routes that Utah is so renowned for. After all, anything else would only be training.
  21. willstrickland

    SUCK

    The moose don't look too bad after 6 mos of freezing darkness.
  22. willstrickland

    SUCK

    How long were you unemployed dood? How long you been back in the rat race? I'm still scraping ice of my windshield in the mornings, so you ain't got it so bad! No rock climbing here for at least another 2 months. Speaking of working and climbing and weather and stuff... I'm working an angle on a job in the Florida Keys right now. Now Florida isn't exactly a destination climbing area, but it's not like I'm getting any climbing done up here. Boat drinks, bikini clad chicas,60 degree winters, fly fishing for bonefish, tarpon, and permit, and self-directed work...or -50 winters, a shortage of women, alcoholics and moose everywhere, and working for Uncle Sam. Hard choice.
  23. It's either the start to IHC or Supercrack. First impression is IHC. But the real question is: Why would you haul a #3.5 camalot up either of those routes? Only place I can think of to use it would be on the last 15-20ft of Supercrack, not sure if it would even work there.
  24. I'll pony up some loot, and I'm not even likely to ever put boot to stone on that crag. You locals better feel ashamed if some yahoo 3000 miles away is donating and you haven't yet. (Shame them into action ) Edited to say: Check is in the mail!
  25. Man eating grizzly bears, non-stop daylight, swarms of mosquitos, and tourons. That is what you should expect.
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