willstrickland

So after checking out tons of gloves (and picking up something very similar to the vinylove that I can trash) I went with the Lowe Gannt glove. Closed cell knuckle padding, reinforced pittard's leather palms and fingers with leather going past the end of the finger, wpb shell, removable fleece liners and additional insulation/lining in the shell itself, good gauntlets, idiot cords, retail $90, got 'em for $60.

Preuss would probably love the cable-car served, hut system, piton and bolt infested alpine climbing in the alps these days. I end up bitching in all these ethics slanted threads, but as a wall climber I could be called a hypocrite. Anyone who's been on Thanksgiving ledge on the Capt, or Camp VI for that matter (although I wouldn't know, still haven't finished the Nose) and seen the filth and garbage would argue that wall climbers' ethics need some improvement. That said, I had an interesting experience in Josh last spring. Having read in some R&I piece on Josh's bolt protected slab climbs that they "may be bolted, but aren't a sport climb" (paraphrased) we decided to do the climb in the accompanying photo. The route is Loose Lady on the Howser buttress. R&I captioned the photo with something to the effect of "Mary Jane's bolt relief will be short lived as it's a LONG way to that next bolt. I think the longest span between bolts ended up being about 12-15ft with a bolt close to each hard section. A thought provoking climb (as slab climbs can be), but runout? Hardly. Plenty of stuff on the GP Apron in the valley has much longer runouts, as do many of the dome routes in the meadows. It gave me an idea of the "standard" R&I considers when looking at climbs...they are pretty clearly coming from a sport climbing perspective (yeah, I know Eller et al climb trad too). So are we seeing a slippery slope? From free solo to hemp and pins to nylon and chocks and now 6ft bolt spacings and stick clips, bolted cracks, power drill rap grid bolting, hood ornaments as aid pieces, and piles of oxygen bottles and miles of fixed ropes in the Mtns. What next?

I generally train Mon and Thurs. I typically stretch, warm up with some traversing laps and then boulder interspersing traverse laps. This winter I'll likely be only bouldering one of those two days (Monday probably)and concentrating on vertical mileage for endurance the other day. If you want to run laps on TR on Thursdays we might be able to pair up. I'll forwarn you though, I like to run laps on the crack- climbing and downclimbing for as long as I can hang in there. I think leading in the gym is a waste of time unless you're new to leading, so I won't be...but if that's your scene I don't care what you're doing while I'm belaying.

Jon are you speculating or hooking me up?

Longshot, but what the hell. Anybody got a copy of the Warren G G-Funk Era/Regulate album that you can e-me as an mp3? My disc got some nasty scratches, I need my G-funk.

From R&I: Top American climber Tommy Caldwell, who in August freed the hardest line on the Diamond (the sheer East Face of Longs Peak in Colorado), was badly injured in a home-improvement accident at his Estes Park, Colorado house on November 29. Reportedly, Caldwell had been using a table saw to build a platform for his washer and drier when he inadvertently cut off his left index finger just above the middle knuckle. Beth Rodden was at home with Caldwell and helped find and ice the severed tip before getting him to the hospital. Caldwell’s finger has since been reattached with pins, and he is making good progress. He is expected to return home from the hospital on December 7. We wish him a full and speedy recovery

Record for two-armed Chins: Peking phone book Record for one-armed Chins: Chinese amputee directory

quote: Originally posted by dizzyme456: If it were not for companies like TNF you people wouldnt have half the gear you own. The North Face pioneered this sport. If you really wanna blame someone blame yourself, the consumer. Oh by the way, go look through your closet, I bet there is some nice North Face gear in there. Let's see here, there's two pieces of TNF gear in my closet...and that's where they generally stay because they're subpar. I got both on closeout/blowout...a windstopper fleece jacket and a down jacket, I paid a total of $55 for both. Both of them , as well as my Marmot, Patagonia, and Moonstone gear have the logos covered. I've ranted this rant before, consumerism is bad, so kindly stick it up your ass kid. Pioneered the sport? What the sport of extreme yuppie mall shopping? You fucked any credibility you might have had with that asinine remark. I think it's clear who's got the closet full of TNF.

Sorry you missed out, the beer was goin down smooth. Termial G, Texplorer, Anne, Wes, Dave, and myself rallied our collective intellect to determine the following: 1. We should all be climbing ice in China and Mexico with mitts containing picks...no more ice tools 2. Terminal's Barley Wine will put hair on your chest...and then knock you on your ass 3. Tex is a punk because he's leaving on a roadtrip and we're stuck here 4. You should only run in crampons on the Telepherique stairs if you're naked and intend to do backflips off the top of Mount Blanc 5. A hip belay really hurts when catching a 40 footer.

Red and Yellow Marmot shell with the logo covered with green fabric tape, blue baseball hat. See you around 7:00, I was there last night and the Porter was on nitro mmm mmm good!

quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: If you have a 100lb pig to go do moonlight you have alot more to worry about than the river. I crossed it the middle of december without a problem. Just bring and extra pair of socks or tevas. Yeah, he's right, but soloing Prodigal I had at least 100lbs in the bag crossing the river. 3 ropes at 8lb each, 8lb haul bag, 10lb ledge, 2 gallons of water and food, and you're already up to near 60lbs and that's without the rack, sleeping bag, bong, 1.75L Tequila.... Also there can be a big difference in the water levels between December and March. Take heed on suggestions to go light on Moonlight, a couple of the pitches suck ass to haul. Rigging the haul to extend below any lips or edges will solve some of these, and I think Pieper has some hauling beta in one of his TR's...basically you don't have to haul every pitch, like you might be able to haul from 3 to 5 etc.

Works for me, TG? Rob? Tex? Buhler?

I'm down, when and where? Lucky Lab?

Just stay WAY left for the first real pitch. This is the thing that I think he's talking about. It's easy to get suckered into this manky sort of crack system that looks better than the ramp thingy out left. Climb the ramp, otherwise you'll be pulling sandy face moves. It's not as complicated route finding as it sounds. Other stuff I'd recommend for easy aid is: Clean: Prodigal, Touchstone, Spaceshot, Lunar Ecstasy. All easy, and also all crowded. T-stone goes in an easy day, lots of fixed gear low and lots of free climbing after pitch 2. Prodigal is tons o fun (my first wall, solo) and the first two pitches link easily with a 60m. Take extra small nuts for Prodigal (shouldn't be a problem for you ehh Cavey!) Lunar X is right next to Moonlight and not usually as crowded. If it's cold, Touchstone faces south...everything else won't see much sun in March. Something you might consider is that Spaceshot, Touchstone, etc are on the east-side of the canyon and you won't have to ford the river on the approach (that fucker's cold in March), for Moonlight, Prodigal, Lunar X, etc you'll be wading that thing...not bad when the water's low, but add 100lb pig and some current and see how you feel. Take offset nuts, ballnuts, small tri-cams, and aliens (hybrids if ya got 'em) or these will feel harder than the ratings...particularly without the HB brass offsets.

Yo, I'm up for the downstroke, Thurs, Tues whatever. I've been sick though, so I'm not aorund a computer. If you guys are going, Texplorer, give me a ring I'll be home.

uuhhhh huh huh, huhhhhhhhh you said BALL! Paint my balls [ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: snoop dogg and flea dogg, niggaz 4 life. Don't be leavin out Nate Dogg or the Tha Dogg Pound, beeeeyaaaaaattchhh

Hey I found a pic of Larson back in his b-ball days, looks like he was pretty good at it, should have stuck with it instead of switching to hillwalkin [ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: flamer - Erik and Sexual Chocolate , Erik is a flamer that has rainbow coalition stickers all over his car. Now Caveman do you mean Rainbow Family, as in the crunchy-granola hippie gatherings, or Rainbow Coalition, as in Jesse Jackson's propaganda/stiring up trouble organization?I figure 'ol Jesse can give us some insight into how to advise the president on dealing with his infidelity all the while shagging a younger woman, knocking her up, and keep your wife. Not bad Jesse, I'm impressed.

Yeah, I tried and failed too...I think my problem is a firewall issue at work...damn punk bitch I.S. keeping a tight reign for job security

Dude, he didn't ask for your Christmas wish list

I hit it pretty consistently when backpacking, basically because as the trip end or resupply get closer I start grubbing all the extra food as "treats". On the AT after the first three weeks I used everything I had at least once a week (had sent home everything I didn't use consistently, and some that I did) never really got too cold (feel cold, brew-up or crawl in the bag, got nothing but time). Climbing is all over the board though, always feel like I have too much until I realize that the one thing I didn't bring I need (like the damn #4 camalot, left that one and needed it more than a few times, you'd think I'd learn).

I've got a theory. Texplorer is a biological weapon. See, I went climbing with him and after the first day spend that night puking (and I drank exactly one beer) and the next day huddled in a shivering ball of misery. Xenolith goes climbing with him and dosen't even make it past the first day...down with the sickness.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Wassupwiththat? It thought your primary source of trans. was a big ass hi-rise ford van. I bet you'd be happy with 12 mpg. Negative my man. My primary source (i.e. daily) is the bike and public trans. I get about 18 from my 300ci 6cyl. Pimp wagon has some new decorations in the side door courtesy of a State Farm agent. I guess if you're going to get hit by someone, an insurance agent is the best...sure emabarresed the hell out of her though.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Speaking of helmets why dont you sharpen some teeth on your purple helmet and when your arms get tired you can do a groin thrust and rest... oh I guess the teeth would make your other favorite activity harder to do Brings to mind an old cliche "Don't bite the hand that feeds you"