willstrickland

So after looking at the big-ass hole I punched through one of my leashes (placed the tool, got out of it to place a screw, moved it after getting out of the leash only to impale the leash) I started thinking: What is the dumbest thing you've done on a route?I'll start it off with a couple. Once, climbing in TN, I spotted a wasp nest just below the crux of the route I was climbing. I climbed up to it and seeing only a few wasps perched on it, decided to just climb over it and try not to disturb them. Beginning the crux sequence my waist was level with the nest. You can guess where I got stung. I proceeded to jump off screaming for a 10footer, seriously freaking out my belayer. Once, in band camp...

quote: Originally posted by panther: I can vouch for that. These people fall into 2 categories down here. Redneck and Yuppie. Learn to swim. Don't forget the all too common "redneck yuppie" and the elusive "damn yankee", which btw Panther you will be tagged, regardless of where you're from unless it's MS/AL/KY/WV/VA/TN/GA/SC/NC/LA/TX/AR. Fla even counts as "yankee".

Water resistant shells are great if you're snow cave sleeping, or have bad condensation in the tent, BUT they don't do much if you're bag might really get wet. Why? Because the shell doesn't stop water from entering through the inside of the bag. Your pack goes in the drink and that down bag isn't in a dry-bag stuffsack and you're screwed. I think you can just count on a synthetic bag losing a substantial amount of loft after 100-200 nights in it, especially if you're carrying it compressed. That's just part of it. Synthetics are cheap anyway, look around and you can easily get a 3D bag in the zero degree range for under $150. The manufacturer is not even an issue, because hell, polarguard 3D and taffeta nylon are the same regardless of who's sewing it together. By now, most compaines use differential baffling, ground level side seams, draft tubes, and articulated hoods. There are nice features on some for sure (I really like the hoods on SD bags) but it'll be a preference thing more than anything. That said my bags are these: 15 deg 3D Sierra Designs with about 300 nights 20 deg 775-down/dryloft Feathered Friends w/200 nights15 deg 3D Marmot - new-20 deg 550-down REI w/50 nights Winter snow camping: -20REISpring/fall: synthetic 15degfast/light or mountain route bivy insuarance: FFwall climbs: synthetic 15deg I think we climbers, as a group, tend to have so much money invested in gear that we expect it to last forever. Reality is, shit wears out. I've gotten at least 300-400 nights out of a bag I paid $100 for, and I abused the thing. Slept in the dirt, carried it compressed, and still use it. Sure, it's more like a 35deg instead of 15deg now, but I'm aware of that and act accordingly. It just went from being an all around bag to being a summer bag. It was easily worth the money.

Guess I'm going to jail then because I sure don't have $75k and I spray all the time. Funny thing to me is I grew up about 5 miles from where this is going on, and my grandma and uncle lives in that town (it's suburban hell btw)

Yeah, people are still down there climbing. Terminal Gravity flew down there yesterday to climb the Polish.

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: My best friend just got engaged... We would go on long, ass kicking bike rides almost every weekend, I had her almost convinced to try climbing with me this winter... Then her prince charming goes and proposes to her... Take note guys! This might well be the first time a woman has ever complained about a guy willing to make a long term committment. I've got an ex-girlfriend who I'm still hung up on, but the simple fact is she lives in Miami...flat as shit, hot as hades. Only good thing is the ocean and the hotties in bikinis, but with a girlfriend, ahh well you know.

quote: Originally posted by G-spotter: Why does everyone in America climb with the leash, in Europe we now call the leash as aid, and to do a "free ascent" you must climb leashless. So those steel sharp objects on your feet are your toenails? Those picks grow right out of your elbow? It's all aid, hang on a screw, hang on your tool...what's the difference? You can dangle off a leash all day, but with the new "leashless" systems they're just adding more "aid" implements by putting big hooks or knobs or things on the end of the shaft. Might as well make a shaft that flares with a big hole in the middle, that way I can plop a hand jam in the middle of the shaft, is that aid? There's no leash that way. Do you think the boys (and girls) putting up hard shit in the mtns are saying "Hey man, you should lower and re-climb that pitch 'cause you rested on a spectre and stepped on that pin, that's not a free ascent"

A few clarifications: The BC legendary quality is just that...legend. Don't get me wrong, they're growing the dank up there, but the same genetics are all over the world. All those "brand name" strains are being grown all over the country. In fact, there's a seed merchant in BC who specializes in hybrids of former Cannabis cup winning strains and other famous strains...like Jack Herer, White Rhino, Bubblegum, Blueberry, NL5, Superskunk, Dhurban Poison, Kush, Shiva...many of these were developed at Sensi seed bank in the netherlands. Re: convictions. Totally depends on quantity. Below 100 plants and Feds won't usually be involved. The "emerald triangle" of Northern Cali (Del Norte, Humboldt, and Mendocino) passed referendums to allow possesion of up to 25 plants for personal consumption last year. Given these are at the county level, but enforcement is typically carried out by the Counties...Sheriff's Patrolmen are usually the ones, that's why the county jails are so full of pot offenders when the fed pens are not. That said, I got irie-IGHT before training at the gym last night as I often do, makes it easier to deal with the crowds and attitudes. I've seen a crew of 6 Yankees in parties of 2 all stop halfway up Kor Ingalls and whip a mini-bong and jug of water out and toke down before the crux offwidth (first party left it in the pack hanging from thre belay for the rest). Needless to say I got my ass to the summit in a hurry via the north chimneys to make sure I got to participate in the summit smogging. Once on top of the Grand I turned around to a pair just topping out who walked over, requested a lighter, and puffed me down with a Bob special. And one time, in band camp, I shoved a hog-leg....

C'mon PDX, represent! Anne? Dave? PDXclimber? Imorris? Whaz up, I can drink alone at home!?

That's an interesting take on it. The Trango Ice would have the same issues since it's basically a replacement/update to the extreme. I gotta wonder though, how often do you find yourself jumping huge gaps and would you rather have ankle flex in that case, or a stiff ankle that would transfer the stress to your knee...think of landing after a big gap jump in a pair of regular stiff leathers, your weight carries your body forward over your feet, and the ankle stays stiff...this to me means a big chance of tweaking your knees or hamstrings. Then again, I'm fortunate to have pretty flexible ankles, I typically hike in trail runners. I'd also think that downclimbing ice facing out you'd really want that ankle flex so you could turn a bit to one side and french down it or at least lean back a little and get more than your rearmost points in contact. As far as climbing rock in them, any of those boots will climb rock better than a std pair of leathers or plastics. It actually looks like the Extremes are a little lighter than the Ice. I've never seen the Salomons

Ahh, the Lutz! I'm down with the Lutz, any place slingin $1 PBRs is ok in my book. Are you a Reedie by chance? OK who can make the Lutz? We need a crew to make this a real pub-club, otherwise it's just a couple of us out drinking and that's a more or less nightly occurence.

Three options here I think: 1. Build your own LED matrix, I looked at this and it's a little pricey, not for the LEDs but for the matrix/wiring thing to hold them. You could convert any headlamp to LED. If you've got good soldering/electrical skills this might be reasonable. A google search will find you plenty of suppliers 2. Use a Petzl Duo with a halogen in one side and an LED matrix in the other side. They'll start marketing these soon, it's too good of an idea not to. In the mean time I'd be you can modify one to accept an LED matrix, possibly the Princeton Tec retro-fit modules (I have one of these in my P-tec solo and they're about the same brightness as a Tikka). 3. BD makes a few lamps with LED, I think one of them has like 6 LEDs (I've never really looked at them, just glanced at a few).

Spectres, about as confidence inspiring as a new argentinian president. TG placed one in ice last Sat as a second piece with a tied-off screw...I cleaned the spectre with a half-assed tug on the sling. I think Wes mentioned (that day) that they work well in the top of a small bulge or shelf where you can drive the tip almost straight down.

Alright then, sounds like enough people, anyone have an idea for which pub?

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Spray on. Anarchy rules!!! Trash the place. All religions suck. Now you're talkin my friend. As for your suggestions, alot of us do use the chatroom. Two three word phrases for ya: Tongue in CheekGrain of Salt Like I've said before, this board is just like a drunken circle around the campfire, and IMO that's a good thing. If all the spraying ceased, the daily posts would be 1/10th of the current volume and people would stop hangin around because everytime they check in there was nothing new.

It's kinda funny because everything I would recommend doing to learn to lead trad is exactly the opposite of how I learned. I needed to get to the top of a cliffband to set up some TRs and with no other way to access the top I jumped on some line that was about 1 number grade below what I could consistently TR clean and sketched my way up it. I was pumped silly and gripped when I topped out, but I was also hooked and started leading (had been strictly TRing for a good year and a half or two years) regularly (at a much lower grade than that line!). Everything said so far is great advice. I personally teach folks the peculiarites of specific gear (cams/nuts/tricams/etc) and rigging (EQing, cordelette, etc) and have them build a shit-load of multi-piece anchors as if they were going to TR off them. Then they get critiqued. After a few rounds of this (usually spend at least one full day doing this) I'll have them follow some routes to get the idea of what it feels like to hang out and mess with gear (usually getting them pumped silly) . Then move on to either some clean aid with a TR belay or "mock" leading with a TR belay. Next have them leading a load of super easy routes, don't discount the 4th class stuff it works just as well for this purpose as 5.3. By the time they've led 15 or 20 pitches of 5.easy they'll have it down and quickly figure out the rest on the sharp end. As for texts, I think the two Long books (Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors) are the best thing going. Concerning the Robot Cams, they'll work fine, and will be safe, but you'll be better off grabbing a couple of buddies' racks with different brands or going to the local mtn shop and trying different cams out. Alot of the decision will be personal preference. They'll all hold your fall if placed properly in good rock, but you may grow to hate them (a specific brand) and wish you'd spent the extra dough. Robot cams are based on the same general design as Metolius, Trango, Wired bliss, DMM, HB, etc. I had a set of one brand of cams that I grew to hate and finally sold to replace with the brand I prefer. Some people swear by HB cams with the trigger ring...these people aren't climbing with gloves on! Some love TCUs, and these people probably aren't clean aiding on horizontal cracks much (or have perma-bends in their cables). The action is different on them all...some snappy, some silky, etc. The size of your hands will influence your choice, as will the type of climbing in your area. I've still got some original style rigid friends circa '83. They work fine and end up on the rack for the mtns...leave one behind, who cares?

Alrighty, my week was full with night meetings, but one just got canceleled. Anyone up for some pub clubbin on Wed? Just puttin out a feeler, if there's not alot of interest I'll be trainin instead (now that's FU, training instead of drinking?!)

Mad props to G-spotter for the best new user-name.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Hey Will, one time I was down at Red Rocks and we went into Vegas to buy beers. Your story is discredited because no dirtbag in his right mind BUYS alcohol in Vegas, too much free booze in the casinos. Here's a tip. Take two nalgenes into the casino purportedly for "water". Start playing slots, tip the waitress and start pouring those cocktails into the nalgenes...wha-la booze to go.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP: (I would share my portaledge with Sally Raphael. She is not unattractive for an older woman.)RURP has spoken. Seek help immediately, consult the yellow pages for the nearest mental health facility. You could have at least said Jenny Jones, or someone that didn't make me nauseous.

quote: Originally posted by cmonster: I've met Mountaineer members who can climb gnarly 5.12 offwidths Graduates of Mounties courses are required to have had MOFA training. How many others out in the Mountains have had some kind of formal first aid? My guess is that those bitching don't really know much about the club. First, I call bullshit on the offwidth. Who, when, and what climb? There aren't a whole lot of OWs at that grade in the US, and since I have a strange love/hate with OW, I wanna know which one. I've had WFR cert for a long time, and most of my long-time climbing partners have at least WFR if not Wilderness EMT. And, it sounds like alot of the stories and bitching in this thread are from people who were PARTICIPATING with the mounties, not just running into them.

Here's a big "Good luck and have fun!" to Terminal G, who's headin' down to Aconcagua this week. All the best, and enjoy that devalued Argentinian peso!

I think there are enough common problems that we (those who use that gym) should all fill out comment forms on you next visit. Or, alternatively, go when Gary is there and relate the issues. I'll be filling out a form tonight.

Way spendy, the "intial membership" fee is like $100 or something, then monthly, I checked it out. Nice facility, but filled with westside yupsters

quote: Originally posted by chucK: The mounties have as much right as any of you on any route out there. If they get there first, I say tough shit for you. The Mounties post their itineraries on the netAnd Will, a spelling flame??? How originel.Chuck Whatever Chuck. I, for one, value intelligence, and someone using big vocabularly in an attempt to sound knowing and righteous should at least spell the word right. Maybe the intelligence, or lack thereof, alluded to in other posts rings true. As far as the mounties mobbing shit: Yes, they DO have as much right to the hill as me. That said, it's alot more about the attitude than the mob scene. I can certainly check the net, but the comment about "We reserved the glacier" makes my point. How the f* do you "reserve" the glacier?! More like "uh we made plans to dominate this section of the mountain with our newbies and now you are here taking up a very small place but now we can't cram all fourteen of us in here, you only left room for 12". That and the spouting off in front of their "class" about tying knots in rap ropes, etc. If someone is obviously a newbie and honestly doesn't know better, offering a little constructive advice might be helpful: "Hey there, not trying to step on your toes here, but I thought you might have forgotten to knot your rap ropes, just wanted to give you a heads up". If they want your help at that point, they'll ask. Shooting off at the mouth in a lame attempt to impress your class with your command of skills is ridiculous when the climbers in question are probably more experienced than the entire mountie group combined and the ropes are obviously both on the ground. It's the entitlement attitude and the know-it-all attitude that are the problem, well probably some unsafe practices too. There are certainly areas which are very conducive to teaching and usually mobbed by groups. That's great, let the groups jockey with each other for space and time. I've guided and taught for organizations (Outdoor Rec trips programs for different colleges) and I'd never take a horde of people onto something I though your "average" climber might want to climb that day. That said, I also wouldn't be harshing out someone who was rapping through my group unless they were doing some stupid shit like kicking off tons of rocks, dropping gear, or the like. I guess I'm lucky in that I've never encountered the mounties outside, although I did solo through a group from the Challenge Rock Climbing school one day on some 4th/easy 5th and the instructor with the group just alerted everyone and said something to the effect of "Hey guys, looks like there's a soloist coming up on us,he'll be through us in a few seconds, he's not roped so just stay still when he comes through and don't try what he's doing at home!". I heard him from about 30m below and while passing through said hello, thanked him and mentioned to the class that climbing ropeless is generally a bad idea. Now how f-ing hard is that to do?