willstrickland

Thanks dudes! I know it goes free...but at hard 5.12, not quite up to it I'll do everything in my power to make it go clean, sketchy runout cam hooking, #0 brass offsets, whatever...but I've been on sandstone routes that went clean a few times then some dumbass nailed it and it took a few pins to make it happen until those placements changed a little. Looks like we'll throw a couple of LAs, a baby angle, a blade, and a cheater stick on the rack. I got a few of those Lucky "right angle" pins from a Metoloius rep when they first started importing them, they're pretty cool for LA sized cracks, WAY lighter, and kinda springy like an angle, obviously not "hand down to your kids" stuff like LAs, but cheaper, lighter, and a decent shimming pin in tip stacked situations. Since all the info I've heard about the approach indicates certain hell, every ounce will count on this one. Then again, we may just stay back there and do both routes while we're there.

Caveman, those translators suck...what I wrote above as run through a German to English translator: I rise large walls, by I tutor the herb smoke I try, clean to climb if at quite possible. I piss on the Frenchmen of a considerable height. I wake up, smoke above and climb strongly. I try, do not mean hammer not to swing, but swing my Penis instead of What I actually wrote: I get up big walls by smoking lots of herb. I try to climb clean whenever possible. I piss on the french from a considerable height. I wake up, smoke up, and climb hard. I try not to swing my hammer, but swing my penis instead

Dude, I am not into nazi porn, midget porn maybe...may I recommend "Mighty midget" featuring Bridget the midget

Try this: Ich stehe grosse Wände auf, indem ich Lots des Krauts rauche Ich versuche, sauberes zu klettern wenn an ganz möglichem. Ich piss auf den Franzosen von einer beträchtlichen Höhe. Ich wache auf, rauche oben und klettere stark. Ich versuche, meinen Hammer nicht zu schwingen, aber schwinge meinen Penis anstatt.

Going to do the Rainbow in Feb. Wondering what I need on the pin rack for insurance. Anybody been up it recently. Reg route and/or Desert Solitaire

quote: Originally posted by W: I think RURP with only a dozen posts is the funniest person here. It's either RURP or Shlongenshmecker. This is Will. Maybe, but they're both avatars. You know what a rurp is these days? virtually useless unless you like scaring the crap out of yourself...Pika Auk cam beaks baby, that's all I'm sayin. Will has spoken. So let it be written, so let it be done.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: yeah j tree! if you dont place a #4 camalot on route you will place it for the anchor! If you do anything on the Blue Nubian formation that's exactly the case...no anchors on top, the only crack will take a 3.5 and 4 and you still need some creative use of slings to make it happen. That said, the climb "Blue Nubian" on that formation is cool, fingers and thin fingers through the crux to steep hands. Looked like it hadn't been climbed in years when I did it.

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: The only real musicians play accoustic Hahahahhahhaa! What a crock of shit. I love bluegrass and other acoustic based music, but you wanna tell me that Hendrix, Garcia, Clapton, Page, Charlie Hunter, Wes Montgomery, Pat Metheny, Joe Pass, Jim Hall, Gilmour, Keith Richards, Fogerty, Springsteen, Navarro, Van Halen, Allman, Anastasio...and on and on and on aren't "real" musicians? Go buy a clue, you don't seem to have one

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Um, there was that one famous soloist who went to do the Steck-Salathe on the Sentinal and never came back...but I can't remember his name. He is the guy in the one picture soloing 5.13 or something and drinking a beer...you know that one!? --was it Derek Hersey???? Yeah, that was Derek, dude was in the league of Croft/Potter/Bachar soloing, put up "To Rp or not to Be" in Eldo, which is still unrepeated to the best of my knowledge...5.12X. Derek was a Brit expat, and everyone knows the Brits push trad climbing standards...even so, he tried to get quite a few visiting countrymen to give it a shot but they all declined...that might give you an indication of the seriousness of that climb...that and the fact that it's right outside Boudler, home of tons of hardmen and women and it's unrepeated, only American hope I can see repeating it is the Tim Kemple/Peter Vintoniv partnership. But it's Verm in that pic as far as I know, route called Ring of the Lords or something, I haven't seen that picture in long time.

quote: Originally posted by monkeyboy: Probably end up with socks too though. Oh well, better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick. Man, I actually ASKED for socks. Better to have the 'rents kicking down $16 a pair for smartwools than me doing it.

Erik, You see, since we (you and I) are poor, creativity is key. Creative dates require a woman who's not afraid of a little uncertainty and isn't reserved or shy...if she's a wallflower you might be better off going with the standard fare crap... First dates are awkward as hell unless you've known each other a long time anyway, so your looking for something that will allow you both to let your guard down a little, laugh, and focus on something other than how nervous you both feel about the date. If she puffs, your job just became REAL easy. While these may be standard fare, they aren't the dinner and a movie crap and fairly cheap: Bowling: Plenty of laughs to be had, you've got a focus, cheap beer readily available, you can bond by busting on the "real" bowlers A play, comedy, or other live performance: Women somehow love even bad plays, gets you out of the standard fare boat, provides a focus, can be pricey though and maybe a problem to find something this late. Soemthing with a holiday theme will get you bonus points. Caroling, buying toys for needy kids, making/drinking eggnog, making ornanments: Again, the holiday theme shit wins you bonus. One of the coolest dates I had was going to a huge toy store to buy a couple of gifts, one for my niece and one for the "toys for tots" needy kids thing and then geeting loaded on eggnog. This will win you HUGE points...if you're at all interested in kids she might as well drop trou right there. Plus, roaming around the toy store is fun, reminiscing about the toys you had as a kid, etc. Caroling is a risky deal though, she's gotta be inclined toward that stuff and you need to have a good voice and be able to harmonize in key. Or, you could do what I do. Go see some live music, rip bong loads before hand, get jiggy wid it, go puff some bowls, hang out...if she's not down with that wer're not going to work out anyway so might as well find out early, I'm getting too old to be wasting time on a mismatch

Rei-outlet.com has several pieces as well, Marmot for $100, hooded Moonstone $150, and others [ 12-12-2001: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

Raven blems at northernmountain.com for $65 with grip, $57 without the grip

Give northernmountain.com a shot as well, didn't look at jackets, but they've had a good selection in the past...I did notice them having Marmot driclime windshirts for around $65 when I was looking for pins this morning

She said she'd tried them (Alphas) in her initial post and, since she's in Minnesota, a virtual meat locker, plastics seem to be the ticket for warm feet. It sounds like we have similar shaped feet...narrow heel, wide forefoot, low volume. I eventually started using a different companies inner boot(Lowa) in the inverno shells, but a friend's mutt decided to have those for dinner. Now I've actually got brand new invernos because the damn sole came completely off of one boot, not started peeling away, but dropped completely off! Must have been too humid during gluing or something. Anyway, the Lowa plastics are worth looking at, they seem to have a smaller shell size for the same size boots (smaller than Koflach and Scarpa) which would be nice...the only dislike I have with my invernos (besides being way heavy compared to leather) is that the shells are pretty clunky. For great fit get something that fits in the forefoot, and take a look at orthotics or similar devices...expensive, but the beating it takes off your knees and back, as well as the increase in performance from proper fit is probably worth the money..especially if you're pro-dealing the boots anyway. You'd be amazed at what the orthotic/custom shoe folks can do for you, even if it's just relieving knee/back/ankle pain. Just my thoughts, good luck!

quote: Originally posted by freak: kid rock does suck balls, I seen him on TV cashin in on 9-11 like the rest of the pigs. his producer probably said, "I think it would be a good Idea to drape your self in American Flags it might sell more records" and his rymes are weak. nic The guy has had American flags all over shit way before any planes started hitting buildings. I know for a fact he's got an American flag Dean guitar with phatty sparkle paint. And since he basically produces his own stuff, and has produced for stuff as varied as David Alan Coe, I doubt it was a jump on the money wagon, dude ain't hurtin with multiple platinum records. His rhymes are weak? Hmmm, Snoop don't think so, Sheryl Crow don't think so, Trey Anastasio don't think so, David Alan Coe and Howard Stern don't think so...may not be the best lyricist (not many people stand up to Beasties or Tribe) but combine the production, rhymes, and fuck you attitude and you got yourself a winner. How many rap artists do you see turning freakin Fleetwood Mac tunes into backing tracks for top Billboard hiphop tunes? No? Try "Wastin' Time" charted as a single and backing stuff came from Fleetwood Mac's "Second Hand News". ..."Start an escort service for all the right reasons and set up shop at the top of Four Seasons, buy a yacht wid a flag dat sez chillin tha most, and rock dat bitch up and down tha coast" So fuck off Nic

I just got an order in from Barrabes yesterday, took four business days to arrive...ended up paying about 35% less than I would have here. Placed and order with sportextreme.com yesterday for some cramps and a few pins, Rambo comps for like $115, that's about $60-$70 less than Climbmax's price. Anyone know of any other similar shops? I need some pins and Barrabes doesn't carry much in the way of Camp pins (which are identical to BD in the LA sizes...forged in the same factory in Italy, the "Lost Arrow" name is even forged into the pin so they might paint "camp" on there or BD but otherwise same pin). Barrabes only had one size in stock. You can also get Camp LAs in the US for less than the same BD, but instead of the $13.50 for a BD LA they're about $10. From Barrabes they're more like $6, hell I'd stock up on those just to have them and if money runs short you can sling those things in the valley for $10 each after using them for years and still make a profit. I've got friends with LAs on their rack that are like 15 years old passed down from old codgers who beat on them for a decade.

No, I'd say Pam sucks Kid Rocks balls, and it looks like you be suckin Erik's balls kissass

I want Rachel Babkirk and Maxim Extreme Surfer Chick Malia Jones at the same time and some ice to climb on the 26th would be nice too

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Who thinks I am Pope, Figger Eight, RURP etc? You ain't Pope, I don't know what your avatars are though

"now what does it mean?" "It means I ain't stickin my pee pee in his booty no more" "Good Johny, Jerry Falwell is gonna be so proud"

What you dumbasses need is some freakin KID ROCK! Get your butt rock, hip hop, country, and classic rock all in one sitting...not to mention that he straight represents for white trash America and bends Pam Anderson over. When he says he's in the VIP section, he means he's IN the VIP

Or take a 5 minute step outside break anyway!

Try the Front, and IME (a climbing shop right in the same strip mall as the REI, around 3300 east, 3000 south if I remember right). There's also another gym in SLC, and you might try the employee bulletin boards at Alta/Snowbird or Solitude/Brighton...usually some young guns working at the resorts looking to ice climb on off days.

Easy there Mtngorilla, I was the one with the piss-in-the-tent anecdote, Bone was pissing on the wall. Don't slam the dude for my remarks, in fact until you get fucked on a wall climb by some "furners" because they don't understand the game, don't be harshin on him at all. I seroiusly doubt he's a biggot or xenophobe, but the reality is in the Valley there are ALOT of foreign teams who don't belong on the climbs they are on. I don't have any desire for regulation...if you've got the balls have at it...but I've seen too many belay invasions, and general bungling directly attributable to the "new to the valley" factor. It doesn't even apply strictly to foreign people, I bungled my first season, but add the language barrier and it's more of an issue. Europeans are notorious for invading your belay, and no I don't own the route or the rock, but I also don't want you and your two buddies trying to share a 2ft x 2ft platform with me and clippping an extra 700lb to the anchor while I'm trying to belay and encourage my partner. Sorry for the hostile tone, but until you've experienced it, it's easy to criticize. I determine what makes me feel safe, having an extra half-ton on the anchors doesn't inspire confidence (ridiculous? three 200lb climbers, a 50 lb rack, 30lb more in ropes and another 30 in packs...that's over 700lb). Just my opinion, I could be wrong