willstrickland

So what the hell is the deal with PRG these days? I go in a couple days ago to get a new membership, only since I'm leaving PDX soon I just wanted a three month winter deal. Most gyms I've been to offer something like yearly, monthly, and something either quarterly or 6mos. Not the PRG, daily, annual, or monthly only. My encounter was something like this: Me:"Ok then, I need a month".PRG: "alright, that comes to $56". Me:"EXCUSE ME? Surely you meant $36 or maybe $46, but f#@$ing $56? Are you givin away a sack of nugs with that?"PRG: "Oh and you need to fill out a new waiver, read and inital the new rules, and if you're leading or belaying you need to take our test and wear this belay cert card on your harness at all times"Me: "What are you guys, the fuckin corporate state now?"PRG:" Make sure you read these (referrring to the rules, one of which states THERE WILL BE NO TEACHING OF BELAYING BY ANYONE OTHER THAN STAFF)"Me: "yeah, whatever dude I don't tie in in here anyway, place is too damn crowded. Your rates are a rip-off, tell Gary (the owner) that I hope he makes alot of money...you guys are joinin the realm of the corporate bullshit. So what if I teach someone how to belay, they still have to take your test so why do you care...I know the answer...you want them to PAY you to teach them. Yeah also tell Gary that if I lived anywhere other than Southeast I'd train somewhere else, the only reason I'm here is the proximity to my house, and that for $56 a month with as many people as I see in here he should be making hand over fist money or needs to go to business school" So I'll still train there until after I get back from Vegas, after that fuck 'em. I don't care about the belay cards and that crap, but the rates are too high, the place is too crowded, and there's only one crack in the place (other than all the plumber's crack). So piss off PRG, I'll be sending my bros somewhere else to train.

Only thing about that design Caveman, if I follow you right, is that you're always climbing in a diheral of sorts, i.e. the back wall is always right against one of your sides. The ideal solution might be to build what you're talking about with a splitter section in the middle of a panel as well.Maybe I'll work on a design. Atlanta sucks, and the local climbing scene is kinda lame (although the rock is GREAT) but the Atlanta Rocks northside gym has a hand crack and finger crack in their 45 degree overhanging bouldering cave. It's like thin hands and hands (it wavers enough that you could pick a perfect or thin jam at any move), and the finger crack is perfect fingers and off fingers. That freakin finger crack is HARD.

Shit dude, never even though about that...that's probably a better cash-generator than the heads. I'll have to look at a camalot when i get home and see if my swager will get in there.

quote: Originally posted by payaso: ...I am curious about some of you, what came first, the self-righteous attitude, or did it develop after years of climbing and following it up with self-aggrandising posts on message boards? Oh boy, here we go. First I learned to spell, Pie-asshole, uhh I mean payaso. Unless you be postin' from the UK, aggrandizing contains no "s".

Dammit, the Warden said that I could list those on my resume' Willstrickland123 Sesame StHometown, USA Edumacation: I gradyeated the sixth grade Expereince: Head Rock Buster - Folsom Federal Penetentiary 6/92-Present Busted rocks and sucked cocks for cigarettes. Utilized management skills to organize a "bitch mentoring program". Developed first rate busting skills operating both a 15lb sledge and iron wedge. Developed multi-tasking skills by watching my backside and picking up the soap concurrently. Tool and Die adjuster - Joliet State Prison, IL5/90-4/92Set-up die and stamping operations for license plate machines for the state of Illinois. Used people skills to organize a riot with a record 96% participation rate. Received several awards including "Brown Crown of the Year", "Mr. Tossed Salad Man", and "Most Likely to Stab Cellmate in the Eye with a rusty fork". Stock Broker - Shady and Shady Ltd, Wall Street,NY2/83-4/90BOught and sold "junk bonds" in association with Charles Keating and Michael Milken. Awarded the "Revenue Generator of the Year" award for making Shady and Shady over 47 Million in profits in FY '86.

Alright, if any of youse want heads,rivet hangers, or a funkness let me know how many/sizes. I'll shoot you a price back and custom make your order. Want "EQ" heads? No prob, Circleheads with two different sized heads on the piece...I can do that, cinch rivet hangers...no prob how thin do you want 'em? For anyone who might go "what the hell is a funkness", it's a length of heavy wire cable with loops swaged into the ends for yarding out pins or nuts, or testing pieces. Clip one end to the piece and another to the hammer and you've got a tough, static piece that is the last word in cleaning pins or testing heads.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I know of at least two Canadian membes of this board who work for the government Now Dru, we all know (and I've worked for federal and county govt) that "work" and "government" do not belong in the same sentence.

While it may be true that these board regulars only represent a very small fraction of PNW climbers, it's a dedicated bunch, and in general probably WAY more experienced than the other options. Where else can you find climbing community that is varied, dedicated, and all in one place? And what options are there for climbing community? Let's...break it down: The Mountaineers: Please, lets not even go there Climbing Gym: Lots of spraying, lots of sport monkeys, and some hard-core people who get up big and hard stuff. Overall, not enough outdoor experience in the population and not genuine enough in discussion because of the posing factor. American Alpine Club: Plenty of active and experienced people, but not alot going on as far as "community". Good publications and stuff, but not alot of interaction among members College clubs/groups: Good for teaching basics and introduction style stuff, but the young population precludes alot of expereince. CC.com: Lots of spray, but tons of experience and people who aren't afraid to share it. A place where hundreds of people can "gather" on their own schedule in their own home/office, and get info, find a partner, or discuss issues relavant to the community. Where else will you find a group of people who've: Written guide books, put up FAs all over the NW, climbed in the Himalaya, Andes, Alaska, Canadian Rockies, and other "foreign ranges" (yeah I know Alaska is US soil, but if Canada is foreign, so is Alaska). Redpointed 5.13, climbed 5.12 trad, and bouldered V10. We've probably done at least 15 El Cap routes between us, and I know at least one person who frequents the board has led one of the hardest and most dangerous aid pitches on El Cap (not me, but it's the Coral Sea pitch on Native Son and if you wanna know who it was do a search). There are guides, former guides, and aspirant guides. There are "all-arounders" who climb anything that gets them off the ground..snow,ice, rock, dirt, trees. There are bolt-choppers, free soloists, and even people in Minnesota in this "community". And, there are even...gasp..non-climbers. The history and tradition of local climbs and areas,which used to be handed down through generations, continues to be shared on this board long after the climbing population became too big for the old mentoring methods. Don't buy it? See some of the threads where Dwayner, Specialed, et-al chime in on the old Leavenworth guide service and the community and history there. Listen to the old dads spray about Index "back in the day"...something about dead animals that I don't get, or see the FFA history/story of DDD. It only be a fraction of the population of climbers, but take a look the next time you're in a gym and ask yourself "would I want to be climbing a serious route with any of these jokers?" I always asked myself "where are all those cats from the gym?" when I'd be out at Beacon this summer, never saw any of them. I made a trip to Smith in the fall and then I knew why...must have seen 25 people from the Portland Rock gym down there. Ok, too much talky-talky, I'm of the soapbox (for a little while anyway)

Yo Capt, send that on to me too if you will. I saw plans somewhere several years ago for one that Steph was training on. Why every gym in the country doesn't have about four of these is beyond me. I go to the PDX rock gym and run laps on the only crack in there looking specifically for the worst holds on the thing and it's still too easy, besides the crack I boulder a little and mostly just check out the hotties, I try to think I'm training, but I don't often run into red plastic blobs and colored tape outside.

Just traded a fleece suit and an old Dana daypack for one of these yesterday, even up. Not bad since I never used the fleece suit, and the old pack was mediocre at best. Alpine Light So, light: hell yes, well designed: mostly, rugged: remains to be seen, but looks a little prone to ripping in the main body from picks and points, bottom is burly. The cramp straps/tool sleeves are nice, well done. There's a file pocket, but don't expect to get a file with a plastic handle on the tang in there. File pocket is sized for a standard 8" mill bastard without a handle attachment. I use a smaller file with a handle (removable) so how useful this feature is depends on me buying a different file, or fishing around trying to get the smaller file out of the pocket. The waist belt is very thin (2") with a gear loop on each side which is sized to double as tool holster while placing gear. The back pad is removable closed cell foam doubled over, and there's no framesheet or suspension to speak of. Spindrift collar is BIG, enough so that at 5'8" I can climb into the pack to my waist. Haul loops on front and back as well as a top lid that opens from any side. I'm impressed overall, and although they retail at $160, Next Adventure in PDX has them for $100. That's a good deal IMO. Now, maybe I'll do some suffering with it find out how it really peforms.

A better question might be: Why did this man have to spend $30 on a Gorilla bar and the better part of an afternoon yanking out these bolts? As you may notice, there's a crack about two feet from that particular bolt. Many of us know who this person is, and I know why the trees are growing diagonal..because I was laying down on my side when I shot the picture (or maybe Caveman actually shot that one, he's a little "off center" anyway...that could explain the diagonal trees)

Basically, four: 1. Make training properly bewteen now and April the most important focus in my life. That covers alot: nutrition, sleep, mental training, weight room, climbing gym, and actually doing routes to have fun and break up the training monotony. My immediate focus is getting enough sleep (which I think is about 9-9.5hrs for me when training) and decreasing my caffeine/alcohol intake. I enjoy the actual "training" except marathon cardio work. 2. Pay more attention to nutrition, hydration, and strategy during climbs, while trying to climb long rock routes fast. (Think 36hr non-stop wall pushes with the "team food" being 2 gallons of cytomax and 80 packs of GU) 3. To prepare for specific climbs. Normally in the valley it's a "what do you feel like climbing today?" deal, but I've got a set partner for a few months with very similar goals and he's one of the best partners I've had. I think by preparing for specific climbs we'll get more done and put less overuse stresses on fingers and elbows. We both know we're already strong enough to climb the routes we aspire to this season if the cruxes pitches were at the crags, it's a matter of picking up speed, endurance, feel, and a calm mind. Once the speed4. To get out and suffer with some of you CC'ers before I bug out of the NW. Jan looks pretty packed with CC'ers, I'll have some weekends in Feb (plus the Rainbow Wall in Feb). Maybe I'll get up Rainier with one of youse before I bail...unless you got some older dude named Judd on the team

Best/Worst of CC.com: Best: Matt Anderson's Rainbow Wall TR. Worst: 20 pages and 499 posts concerning some passive aggressive pussy who can't ask someone to smoke outside the hut Biggest Losers: Cell phone posse Most entertaining newbie: Dan Larson (who, by the way, sucks) Most beta tucked into a single skull: Dru Energizer bunny award: Caveman American Climbing in general: Best (3 way tie): The crazy shit that went down in Alaska last season. 5.13 trad on the Diamond. Dave Graham's sport monkey tick list. Worst (tie): Caldwell cutting off his finger after surviving the Kryzgkstan ordeal, freeing the Muir Wall, and freeing the hardest line on the Diamond. The "Sharma stripped of World Cup win for smoking herb" thing. In my personal climbing: Best: New areas, it's all new when you move. Worst: Injuries, injuries, and more injuries

quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2001: God who could ever forget the Dan's Dreadful Direct nonsense? Had to be the worst True dat yo! I mean, what kind of a jerky retro-bolts a trad line anyway?! That is the worst. 500! BEOTCH, sprayin my way to the top. [ 01-02-2002: Message edited by: willstrickland ]

I know...

Ok, so judging from this post and Dwayner's Year of Big Who? thread, it's pretty obvious that you guys got dosed on NYE. So like, when you were talking to god, did he say anything about me? I mean I've got such a crush and everything. Those little gelatin squares are not mini-jello shots no matter what that hippie barista chick told you.

Bitch, moan, repeat. C'mon dudes, everything (well almost everything) has it's place. Anyone ever hiked the Maze section of Canyonlands? GPS has a real good place there because otherwise everything looks the same and using std map/compass procedures requires intense diligence and experience, you've got to constantly consult the map and try to keep up with the topo features which are so similar it's ridiculous. I hiked off-trail daily by map and compass relying on my abilities to get me (and 11 criminal teenagers) to a water source, so I'd say I have a good handle on map/compass. Ever run multi-day rivers trips? Hmmm, should we stop here (which is where?) or shoot for the nice cool, flat spot with a sandy beach up ahead (which is how far?) GPS is pretty nice there. And, finally, analog can have it's own set of errors. Heavy iron deposits can sway the magnetic reading on a compass, as can electrical current (it's called an induced magnetic field for those liberal arts majors out there). Combine that with the inherent error in determining the exact declination of your location, and the errors in sighting through the compass...you may be worse off with the analog...over a long distance anyway. A near-sighted yuppie dude in one of those electric heater TNF jackets, that could be trouble with analog. Personally, I wouldn't want to rely on GPS in a situation where battery failure is probable (i.e. mountaineering where the cold will sap the batts). What you take with you is based on your own comfort, to criticize others for what they take or don't take is silly unless they are your partner, or you're the one rescuing their unprepared ass.

Noticed that Sierratradingpost had some G-tex Sundowners in a few small and real big sizes for something like $40. Sizes were mens 6,6.5, 7.5,8, 15,16. Hell of a deal if they're your size.

Successful, yes because I HAVE BRAKES. Changing a brake master cylinder, typically should take about an hour and a half to swap the part and bleed the system. After two WEEKS of messing with this thing between (and often during) bouts of rain I tallied the total: 8+ hours of chiseling and grinding.2 destroyed "one man bleeder" kits2 quarts of DOT416 or 18 bowls while waiting for the Dremel to charge47 PBRs and at least 15 Black Watch Cream PortersToo many jokes with one of my housemates (female) about the bleeding procedure..."OK, now pump it and it'll get firm at the top, that's good now hold it"8 dremel cut-off discs1 driveway with alot of brake fluid on it1 Periwinkle Pussycat (my van) that stops and1 new appreciation of the value of a well stocked workshop and air tools

quote: Originally posted by ehmmic: I just bought an Olympus 80 point and shoot. It's auto, has a zoom, and several auto flash settings for different conditions. I am planning to take this camera on a trip south next week instead of my Cannon EOS, because of the weight savings. I was planning to shoot slides, but based on some of the comments here am not sure if they'd turn out. Any thoughts? Just be conservative with your speed selection and they'll come out fine. The meters in todays cameras are pretty darn good under most circumstances. As long as you shoot 200 or 400 you should be fine. Even 100 will work great on bright sunny days. Trying to shoot Velvia (ISO/ASA 50) would be likely be problematic. Be aware that the latitude with slide film is much narrower than with print film...meaning there's not as much room for error in exposure. IF the shots will be really good and your camera has an exposure override (or even better, auto-bracketing) bracket your exposures with the slides (i.e. shoot at the recommended exposure plus over and under exposures...how many and how far under or over is up to you...I typically bracket in either 1 stop increments in a three shot series, or in 1/3 ev increments and shoot recommended, 2/3 under, 1 under, 2/3 over, and 1 over.) Slide film is cheap to develop, so if you only get one "keeper" per roll big deal, it'll be worth the $8 you paid for slide film and developing when you enlarge it. BTW, I've got 8x10s from Velvia (50), Sensia (100), Kodak 100 APS print, Kodak C40 (or whatever, it's B&W that uses color chemistry to develop...develop it anywhere), and Kodak Elite Chrome 200. The Velvia is spectacular, the rest are ok/good. I've also had the same enlargement look drasticxally different using different labs.

Re: Insurance and windshield. Depends on the state. Some states mandate replacement without your deductible coming into play, others do not (i.e you want new windshield, you pay deductible...which is usually more than just getting a new windshield). Check with your agent.

In my eyes, it comes down to this: Any shitty SLR body on the market will take really good photos if you put some good glass on the front, shoot fine grained film, and bracket your exposures. In P&S, the weight difference between cameras is for practical purposes insignificant. The single most important feature on a P&S is the widest aperature opening of the lens (for a zoom this will be a range i.e. f4-f5.6). The smaller that number, the better (a small number indicates a wide opening, and hence better light gathering capabilities allowing use of slower finer grained films and/or faster shutter speeds for hand held shots). Most P&S have a best case wide open ap of f4 or so. The stock "normal" lens of old SLRs, typically in 35mm or 50mm focal length, usually has f2.0 or lower, there are plenty of 50mm f1.0 and f1.7 Pentax lenses out there. Since it's definitely more expensive to build a lens with a bigger opening (lower wide open f-stop numer) chances are if you find one with a low number, the rest of the quality of the lens will be good as well. Kind like you wouldn't be putting a Chrome 600cfm Holley carbuerator on a Pinto. I've had some decent luck shooting with a tiny APS camera, even though the negative is smaller (enlargements show more grain than the same speed of a larger neg at the same speed). It's a piece of junk Kodak, but I've taken it on climbs where it could have easily been crunched and not worried about it.

I've spent alot of time pondering this very issue and knowing what is holding you back is only one step towards improving. For me climbing better means four things: 1. Climbing more often to be de-sensitized to exposure and falling, to have good endurance, and to have a keen feel for the type of rock. 2. Climbing with a still mind. This is a short way of saying all the Zen related things. A calm mind operates in the now and allows you to rid yourself of unneccesary tension. This allows smoother movement, committing to moves without hesitation, and climbing quickly and confidently. 3. Climbing easy as well as hard routes. I get antsy and boulder alot when not climbing routes. This inevitably leads to overuse injury for me. I need to get in the mileage on easy stuff that allows me to tune into the rock, build endurance, and flush and oxygenate the muscles for recovery while climbing enough hard stuff to improve and climb the routes I dream about. 4. Climbing regularly with the same partner of near same abilities, but mixing in others to keep the partnership from getting stale. I look at my best climbing days and they all have one thing in common...one of my two best partners was tied into the other end of the rope. Numbers 1, 3, and 4 are easy enough, make climbing your priority and hash out a plan of easy and hard climbing days, adjust the plan by paying attention to your body, and you're set. Number 2 is another story. Some people require all the rest of their life to be in order before they can have a calm mind. Some people (and I aspire to this) can summon an intense level of mindfullness (the Zen state, or "zone" for lack of a better term) at will. Some folks will never be able to calm the mind. Meditation is the best way to achieve this state, virtually every culture has had some form of meditation for thousands of years. I've also been investigating the "brain hemishpere synchronization" options (they've worked for me to a limited degree, but require regular use and seem to work better in conjunction with regular meditation. I've been able to evoke deep feelings of calm mid pitch by using brain-synch methods). I honestly believe that if every climber who wants to improve just dropped the grade they typically lead by a number (i.e. the bulk of your "ticks" on a given weekend are 5.10, climb 5.9) and doubled the number of pitches gradually adding pitches until they are cranking off 20 pitch days as the norm. Then start adding harder stuff. Chances are you're strong enough now to climb the cruxes of routes that spit you off, IF that crux was a boulder problem off the ground. Adding loads of pitches will get you climbing with better endurance, a better feel for the rock, and will have you placing pro way faster. I think Jim Karn put it best (paraphrased):"People ask me how to train, what to eat to get better. I think that when your desire to improve at climbing becomes the most important thing in your life all the other things like how to train will become clear to you. That's all I have to say" Cool thread BTW.

Doods, Get real, you think I'd sell my ONLY guitar? I've got 3 others...a 6 string acoustic, 12 string acoustic, and my first, best, and primary...the 1974 Gibson Les Paul Deluxe. I sold off a shitty strat copy that I bought when I first got out here for like $50. So bring on the goofy hippie girls, I prefer them. Prefer them? What the hell is wrong with me? Well, the hippie girls have alot going for them. Most learn some craft skills like knitting, crochet, and sewing. They cook, garden, and enjoy things other than Oprah, the mall, and cell phones. They tend to be less concerned with money, can score me a bag when I'm otherwise occupied, like the same types of music, and enjoy traveling on a dirtbag budget. They also tend to be uninhibited (but also unshaven and unbathed! kinda like France). There's also just something about a barefoot girl in one of those little half-apron looking top things. Dreadie chicks? Even better, bring 'em on. Generalization, sure, but who cares. As for the van, master cylinder is off, new one is on, still have to bleed the system (after destroying two of the "one-man bleeder" systems, I'll go the standard route this weekend). My dad is poorer than me! No new vehicles coming from him, plus he hasn't had a license since the 80's. Dwayner, it seems your frustration with forced piano lessons from Mrs. Grindstone as a child has upset your appreciation of music and musicians as a whole. My recommendation: psychotherapy, definitely psychotherapy. Pope, mysterioso image ehh? Tobacco pipe, knickers, beret, novels in a rucksack? What were you, a character in The Dharma Bums? Chuggin cock with Ginsberg at one of them Leary hippy-dippy parties? Probably started hanging out with a real live Indian guru in the 60's and wearing one of them silly beaded leather headbands...and I don't know if you could really call "Your astrology guide for 1963" a "physics book for popular consumption". You cats are right though, I need to get out.

Pope, posting on Christmas?! What the hell is wrong with you? But, since you asked: I asked for 4 pairs of Smartwools 2 different styles and a stovetop stainless espresso maker Mom and gramdma came through perfectly. Dad sent $300, plus the offer to buy me a computer before the summer if I send the specs of what I need. I bought myself: Sixer of Obsidian Stout, a dank nugget, New 70m 9.8 leadline, 60m 11mm wallrope, 60m 7/16 static haulline, synthetic bag (to replace my current one with about 400 nights of use on it), russian aiders, new drill, bits,bolts (for replacing those time bomb belay bolts, not for putting up sport routes), couple of scream-aids, a few pins, Yates "Lazy" chains, and a couple of screws (ice that is). I've got a birthday not too far away too, so looks like resoles on 3 pairs, a new pair of all day shoes, new hiking boots, and a new harness. That's alot of buying for an anti-consumer culture spray monkey like me...so what gives? Well, that's not even the total, I didn't count the other gear I've bought in the last two months: ice tools, crampons, silent partner, pro-traxion, BD Double ledge, set of camalots and brass offsets, filled out my set of alien hybrids, and got some new gloves. Damn, that's alot of buying you hypocrite Will! So let's break it down: Ledge, cams, brassies, ice tools: used (barely) paid around or under 50% retail Russian aiders, synthetic bag, ropes, pins, screamers, screws,gloves: on sale, paid from 50% to 70% retail, total around 60% retail Crampons, alien hybrids, few pins,pro-traxion, drill: bought from foreign suppliers (Barrabes, sportsextreme) paid about 65% retail with the duties included. Yates lazy chains: only thing I paid retail for (well the beer too), and I don't have any pro deals anymore. I also sold: a set of cams, a camcorder, videos, a stove, a jacket, a guitar, and a few tools. Around $3000 in gear and I'm about $1000 out of pocket...not bad...maybe being a bit of a scrooge turned out to be the true Santa Claus. I also spent all day on X-mas hand chiseling two rusted nuts in an attempt to get my master cylinder off my van. After two days of delicate grinding and chiseling I have one of them removed and the second almost finished. Every time I banged my knuckles hammering I thought to myself "You fool, you're supposed to be headed to Lilloet to bash your hands on ice, not car hoods!" So I was a little pissed, job that should've taken 1.5hrs is now going on week two, all to remove two rusty fasteners. I'm getting a serious lesson in patience, although I anticpate I'll finish this thing by the weekend. The crux of the issue is the cordless "dremel" style tool I'm using only has one god battery that lasts around 15 minutes before need a charge and that takes about 5 hours. Grind, chisel, smoke herb, wait....repeat every five hours until dark, get up the next day, repeat...scream to yourself "I SHOULD BE CLIMBING ICE RIGHT NOW!"