willstrickland

Well, you guys know that Jon or Tim could punk both your asses by posting a reply and then closing the thread so that neither of you win

Caveman, If you're ever down this way, check out the Delta Cafe @ 52nd and Woodstock. They've got some tolerable southern style cookin(everyone raves, but I grew up eating grandma's cookin and grandma is about as country southern redneck as you can get) and get this: You can get 40oz PBRs bottles served up in a mini wine-cooling bucket packed with ice to keep your 40 cold. Now that's quality..."I'll have the country fried steak, fried green tomatoes, fried okra, collard greens, and a 40 of Pabst please!"

That opening scene was all of it that I saw (walked in after seeing another movie for a few). I was sitting there going "Now goddammit, I've got to know where this was filmed...I live in the land of Wingate, surely I'll see something that I'll recognize to tip off the locale". Then later I found out it was mocked-up on a fake wall on a soundstage or something. I sure hope my #3 Metolius never starts creaking and twisting and disentgrating and shit while I'm on it. I wonder what they paid Metolius to be able to use that? Usually it's the other way around, products pay the movie for placement, but after the BD lawsuit over the buckle in that Stallone film surely the table is turned in this case?

Interesting theory, but I doubt they'd want to alienate themselves. Remember, these guys are the single largest climbing shop in europe (or so I've heard anyway). I don't think an american company like BD or Metolius would want to hand over market share just because some crafty dirtbags like us are figuring out ways to get the stuff cheap. You gotta figure there are alot of folks with prodeals anyway. I'd bet that camalot sales alone in europe put new BMWs in the driveways of BD execs.

Well I found several sources, but for something with the amount of lumens and a color temp approaching natural light (or at least not nearly as blue as the typical "white" LED) the cost is prohibitive. In another few years it'll be viable, as we've seen from the new headlamps on the market, LED is just now gaining widespread attention. The LEDs themselves are not really pricey, but unless you've got a good bench and the time to build and wire your own arrays, it's more than I want to spend.

Hey Jonny, congrats on a fine day with the young-un. Sounds like parenting can be alot of fun after the crying, shitting, and terrible twos are over. I took one of my housemates to the gym for his first climbing expereince last night. It's pretty nice to be able to take a beginner and not have to teach belaying, knots, etc. Usually it feels like work when teaching newbies, but not this time. I was looking to maximize his climb time,so I told him I could teach him belaying at home any old time and being an eagle scout he had the fig-8 down in about 2 seconds. A two minute lesson on commands, doubling back buckles, etc and he's romping up a climb. After a quick run up the vertical wall he started eyeing the crack. I told him to look around and find something he wanted to climb...bingo, the crack it was. YESS!! A trad climber in the making (although he did flail trying to jam). Now if I can convince him that standing around in the cold for hours and pissing in a bottle is fun I might make a alpine climber of him too.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Only Dean Potter and Lou Whittaker do I have to look up to, and Lou outweighs Dean by fifty pounds (it's a no-brainer to pick who'd win in a barfight between 'em). Yeah, easy indeed. While Big Who? I mean while Big Lou was putting his dentures in to "teach sonny thar a lesson" Dean would have already wandered out of the bar, and hopped in the van to packed the bong...who wants to fight? Leaving Pooh, uhh I mean Lou wondering "what went with that young whippersnapper anyway?

Last season I used a pair of $12 neoprene camo numbers from Wal-Mart's hunting section. They weren't quite warm enough for my taste, but the dexterity was amazing. The entire palm and palm-side of the fingers were rubberized, the stretch allowed me to fit them with zero dead space in the fingers. The biggest drawback is that they get clammy. I use size XL expedition style mitts for belays and such, slide them over my regular gloves, but for long easy routes where you don't belay much I want something warmer than the neoprene.

www.zip-it.com .org .net Zippity doo dah When a problem comes along you must zip-it Zippazippazippiiiitttt

Oh, I bet Jon will give you dibs, dibs on an ass-kicking. Uh, hey Jon, you stupid bastard, your mom's a whore and your sister licks my sphincter...can I borrow a couple of #2's I'm going to Indian Creek, thanks man your the best. Did I miss something?

Big Wall Climbers Arrested in Yosemite for 'Illegal Air Delivery' November 12, 2001 Two big wall climbers were arrested last week for tossing a haul bag off of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. According to the Park Service, on the afternoon of November 3rd, rangers received a report of a BASE jumper hitting the wall near the East Buttress of El Capitan. The reporting persons said that they had seen a white parachute and a person clad in a red jumpsuit hit the wall four times before disappearing from sight. Rangers investigated and just before nightfall were able to spot a white parachute attached to a red climbing haul bag stuck on a ledge on the cliff about 500 feet above the base of the wall. Park Rangers contacted two climbers at the base of the route who had just retreated off the wall. The climbers initially denied any knowledge of the incident, but one of them eventually admitted to throwing the haul bag with a parachute made from a porta-ledge rainfly before they rappelled off. One of the climbers was arrested for making a false report, illegal air delivery, and creating a hazardous condition. The other was cited for creating a hazardous condition and released to appear in court at a later date.

Big Wall Climbers Arrested in Yosemite for 'Illegal Air Delivery' November 12, 2001 Two big wall climbers were arrested last week for tossing a haul bag off of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. According to the Park Service, on the afternoon of November 3rd, rangers received a report of a BASE jumper hitting the wall near the East Buttress of El Capitan. The reporting persons said that they had seen a white parachute and a person clad in a red jumpsuit hit the wall four times before disappearing from sight. Rangers investigated and just before nightfall were able to spot a white parachute attached to a red climbing haul bag stuck on a ledge on the cliff about 500 feet above the base of the wall. Park Rangers contacted two climbers at the base of the route who had just retreated off the wall. The climbers initially denied any knowledge of the incident, but one of them eventually admitted to throwing the haul bag with a parachute made from a porta-ledge rainfly before they rappelled off. One of the climbers was arrested for making a false report, illegal air delivery, and creating a hazardous condition. The other was cited for creating a hazardous condition and released to appear in court at a later date.

Looking to replace my old worn-out OR gloves with something new. I'm soliciting opinions, what do you like and why, what do you hate and why. I've looked at Granite gear's Ice Sparring gloves, and some other cheap stuff. They don't need to be G-tex, but inserts would be nice. On a related topic, I checked out Granite Gear's new alpine pack the "Alpine Light". It looks fairly well designed, about 2 1/2 lbs, tool sleeves and crampon patch/straps, frameless with removable bivy pad, top lid opens from either side, and it was pretty damn cheap. Anybody have experience with this thing?

quote: Originally posted by erik: matter of fact ti think that i will just go to (spray) yosemite today and be done with the lot. does anyone have anything down there i need to climb for them???? Yeah, go ahead and tick Stoner's Highway for me. I tried to get on that damn thing last year but I was always too high and drove right past it, Middle Cathedral's pretty easy to miss you know, especially with a "contact high", the bowl contacted my lips, the fungus contacted my stomach...and I was high. While your down there ticking STONERS do the WINDOWPANE flake pitch on Lurking Fear, get on PERUVIAN FLAKE, TANGERINE TRIP, MESCALITO...

Damn, I didn't know Snoop was on the scene. He's a bad-ass, a sport climber, but all that stuff in the Compton Cave down at Charleston is sick. Now he might be from Long Beach, but he down wid da CPT. Those routes Straight Outta Compton (FFA Dr Dre, Ice Cube, Snoop Dogg), and Cop Killa (@ American Fork FFA Ice T, second ascent Snoop Dogg) are hard. Mad props yo, keep cranking Snoop.

Maybe you guys should walk in with your harness on and third-tool holstered or your pack with both tools attached. You know those rednecks love tools, they'll probably strike up a conversation. If they get surly, just smash 'em with the hammer, or if there's a bunch of 'em just plug the first one with the pick...the spurting blood should keep the rest at bay.

In the words of Walt "There are only two kinds of women: Those who aren't worth the trouble and those who are nothing but trouble" Erik, it's easy to figure out why they compliment each other. She takes your mind off climbing for a while, provides a modicum of stability in your life, probably pampers you a little, and keeps you happier than you'd be flying solo. That in turn leads to mental health and the psycho-state is huge in determining how your body heals, recovers from training, etc. Of the few times in my life that I've had a good woman, plenty of climbing, and good partners all at the same time, great things came from it. Conversely, when I've been dirt poor, just ended a relationship, and am about to go over the brink psychologically, I accomplish some great things. The biggest difference is that I can maintain it indefinitely with the woman and all that in place, on the depressive-trip I can only maintain it for a very short time...flash and crash. Glad life is smiling on you, relish it!

quote: Originally posted by johnny: ...all this talk about partaking in the great outdoors and not a peep from our willing to compromise his ultralight hiking kit with a titanium pipe guy; Stone Cold Willy. Will, are you actually out climbing instead of bitching about other peoples habits?? GOOD FOR YOU!!!!! Actually, it was glass (that thar metal stuff is bad for ya). Yeah, I was trying to climb (aid soloing) since it was 65 and sunny, then tried my hand at surfing (that thar Pacific ocean's a cold one, and I'm a gumby on a surfstick). So all this cryin and moanin about puffing in the shack? I'd say a good 99% of the pot smokers I know, myself included, would have gladly moved outside if asked, finished the bowl (and probably another) and come back inside. No worries, it's a bitch to torch a bowl in the wind, but nothing any of us haven't done before...just like blazing on the chair lifts. Whoo wee, that Larson fellar sure is an excitable one ain't he? To paraphrase Dwayner "aloha and shalom ya'll" Can't we all just pack a bong?

I have no clue about the Rambos, but the Pulsars hold an appeal because the "evolution model" has interchangable shafts. Want a regular ice tool-no prob, bent shaft-no prob, walking axe-again no prob. I took one of these at the local shop, inserted the shaft into a step on the deck and hung off the thing bouncing on it trying to make the shaft become loose. Solid. You'd really only need one of the tools to be interchangable anyway. Using two tools, you could have a non-changeable bent-shaft hammer and configure the adze however you want (the adze because you'd be plunging it and therefore want to be able to switch it to a straight shaft. Only thing I don't like about them is the head is not very comfortable if you're going to be plunging alot. Hell, I shouldn't even be talking about them, I just bought Lammy's Shrikes so maybe that says something about my preference.

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: The real question is how warm can the liquid fuel be before its vapor pressure reaches the max design pressure of the canister. I have not looked at butane charts nor do I know what those canisters can hold, but I would bet ( my life) that it is way, way above the temperature that you will get from the wire trick. Another factor will be altitude. With lower atmospeheric pressure a canister at the same temperature will have a greater differential pressure. I also don't feel this is a concern. The concern is from the canister exploding, and while we don't know the design strength of the canister I feel confident that it won't fail in an exploding mode. This is why: 1. When the canister is being heated, it is also expelling gas (the stove is burning) which causes it to cool. This offsets the heating a bit. 2. Since the valve is open and the canister is expelling gas, the higher pressure in the cansiter will mean a higher pressure of the expelled gas (this is why you're heating it to begin with) and this would indicate that the failure mode might be at the valve of the canister. Or perhaps the valve is such that the excess pressure would simply leak through the valve system. It would seem that as long as the stove was burning there wouldn't be a realistic way to make the canister build enough pressure, it would just reach some equilibrium and blow off enough excess through the valve to keep it from being dangerous. I would think that the weak link of the canister would be the valve or the seam at one of the ends. Either way a violent explosion of the cansiter itself is unlikely. The concern in this mode of failure would be ignition of the fuel being expelled. Where's an ME when you need one? As a CE structural analysis was never my strong point. Give me a dirty environment, or some fluids...then I'm your man.

Supercrack is the 5.12 OW out a roof? I'm also interested to know if it ever got repeated (looks like a awesome trainer for the Owl Roof and those nasty OW pitches on Excaliber). Anybody know what size (hand/fist stack, knee, etc)

Dennis, check your PM inbox.

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: Of course Fred has been pretty much everywhere. He's more omnipresent than Will Strickland. Yeah, but that crusty old fart is like 108 years old, I'm only 28...give me a few years. You know that Tim Toula "Rock and Road" book? Well I'm on a mission to hit every area in it, and oh yeah...you misspelled omniscient

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Damn will, your mojo must've kicked in and led you to the heart windows prior to my reply. I assume you already have the 1000w amp and house speakers with purple fuzz decor? Great minds and all that. I'm saving some loot to get the sound system up to snuff. So when you hear the bumpin soundz I'll be comin aroundz straight bumpin the Snoop I'll swoop in my coupe for a trip to crag here's a blunt take a drag yo

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Hood ornaments are cool! I'm thinking a Hula-girl super-glued on for a hood ornament? Probably get stolen though.