willstrickland

Pro that holds, big wall routes, and hot chicks with no (wedding)rings...these are a few of my favorite things Stouts, Porters, and single malts that sting, these are some more of my favorite things thongs (on women),bongs, and fine six-strings, these are even more of my favorite things

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: I still want to do a wall! NW face Half Dome would be cool 'cause it goes clean and is away from the touristos in Yosemite. A little unsolicited advice fWIW: If you're mortal (i.e. can't do it in a day) go extra light and shoot for one bivi. We hiked in and fixed to the top of 3 on day one. Climbed to big sandy on day two. Got up super early and aided the zig-zags with the sun rising in the middle of the third pitch (p20?). That puts you on the summit before most of the hordes have had a chance to reach the summit. The only down side is that you will be weaving through tons of people on the cables on the descent. Hauling this route would really suck.

quote: Originally posted by pope: Medium/large format photography. Any hot tips from the pros? Pentax 645N - An autofocus medium format that's as close to a 35mm slr in feel as you'll get in a medium format. Plus, they are cheap (for med format) you can find used ones for about $1500-$2000 with a normal AF lens. Med format slides are unreal, the format captures so much more detail. Pentax lenses are super sharp and exceed the quality of some of the more "upscale" stuff like Bronica, Mamiya, etc. Hands down it's the best deal in the med format world. No interchangable backs, but that's not much of an issue unless you change film types within a shooting session often. Be aware that the same focal length in med format (say a 70mm lens) is not the same as 35mm format. A 70mm 645 format lens would be equivalent in degrees of view to about a 40mm lens in the 35mm format.

You might try calling Climbmax (21st and Division) and asking them. I know the ClimbAxe arm of their operation works with some softgoods, they may be able to do it in-house.

Rape of the elements? What makes it that much different than a 880+ overfilled Feathered Friends parka? I've had a heated jacket for years...throw a disposable handwarmer in your jacket pocket and you will too.

quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: My recent favorites: Dominguez & Robin "Your Money or Your Life" I can't recommend this book highly enough, a foundation in the literature on voluntary simplicity or "downshifting", it's had drastic effect on untold numbers of people. Read it at your own peril, it may well change the way you view the consumerist foundation of our sense of well being.

I too read guidebooks (keep the Utah guide at work). Usually alot of non-fiction mixed with the occasional classic. I loved the Rand books I've read (Fountainhead and Atlas), Kiss or Kill was alot of rehash but very entertaining. I just finished "Autobiograhpy of a Yogi", am currently in the middle of "The Battle for God". Last month it was "Walden and Civil Disobedience" by Thoreau, "All quiet on the western front", some Neitzsche commentary, and "A Heartbreaking work of staggering genius". On the waiting shelf is Beyond Good and Evil, Hayduke Lives, and The Zen Teachings of Dogen. I never take "serious" books on long trips, you need some fluff that's easily digested...any grocery store romance novel will do, split it into sections and distribute it to the crew...reading it out of order is actually more fun with these.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Choco-nut Mailer should move to Utah and change his name to Mormon Nailer and do a bunch of Zion aid. Then I will read him. Or maybe just hook up with a bunch of the BYU ladies...a Mormon nailer for sure

I liked that bit in the other thread so: top ten on your lifetime tick list? 1. Astroman 2. Sea of Dreams 3. Primrose Dihedrals 4. North Face of Rostrum w/ Alien finish 5. Excaliber - repeating the unrepeated OWs 6. Cowboy Direct (Trangos) 7. Moonlight Buttress - free 8. Walker Spur 9. Infinite Spur 10.Abruzzi Ridge

quote: Originally posted by Dru: lambone - you can be fat and weak and still be a hard aid climber But Dru, who would you rather have hanging off that string of #0 heads...87lb Beth Rodden, or 220lb John Long. Besides, who'd look better after five days on the wall? Maybe the best case would be 3.6lb Teddy Ruxpin (how are his aid skills anyway Beck, I know you said he really knows how to drive the iron)

I guess my "discipline" would be free trad routes, so my dreams outside that are typically things involving a mix of all kinds of climbing. Stuff in the Tetons, Patagonia, Trangos, Baffin, Alaska etc where you need to climb hard rock and aid pitches, snow, and water ice all on the same route. That Russo-American ascent of Changabang back in '99 (I think it was Buhler with four Russians) comes to mind as having those requirements.

quote: Originally posted by Me: The reason I am not fond of him is his ego. In his Everest retelling he consistently wrote as if he knew more than the guides, and was the stud of the group. Consider the circumstances. The assignment he was on was to cover the commercial guiding activity that was surging in popularity. That required an objective, stand back kind of view of the guides, leaders,and other team members. To assess them requires a certain cold and aloof perspective. Also consider the background of the teams. Kraukauer was a self-driven climber at one time in his life and had probably 20 years of experience behind him...compared to most of the clients he was a climbing stud. (But how can you really think you're a hot-shot when Pete Shoening is walking around?)

From Rock and Ice's News section: Like many of his peers these days, the 17 year old is proving that he's more than just a gym rat who can send on the best slopers Pusher can offer. On October 10, Roth made the second ascent of Timmy Fairfield's powerful Sickman (5.14b) at Palomas Peak, New Mexico. The V12 crux is right off the ground. Roth made a huge throw from a bad pocket and undercling to a solid slot. “The route requires a lot of body tension and finger strength,” Roth says. “I think the training on the Petit Brothers hangboard by Entreprises helped.” When asking Will what he though of all this he said: "Well hold on and let me put down my new SuperOldE 40oz finger training simulator and tell you my thoughts. Ever since I sent the sick-hard "Sick-Hard" route (5.17c+) at Potosi with the help of my new and improved Timy Fairfield signature model Ex-Pat climbing slippers by La Spraytiva, I've been wondering...How do those youngsters manage to crank so hard at an early age. Now I see their secret is to eat lots MonkeyCLimb brand's climbing specific gel food and to train on the Petit Hangboard by Enterprise. I also think that new climbers should take that kid Roth as an example...they should want to dress like him, act like him, and use the same gear as him or else how are they ever gonna climb the sick-hard lines like the CLASSIC "Sick-Hard" put up in 2000.

I am a Braves fan, first game 1977 at the ripe old age of 4. They don't stand much of a chance this time around, but with the caliber of pitching they have you never know...I'll say M's vs Braves, M's in 6, Ichiro Series MVP. (Not exactly going against the odds there am I?)

OK, not the Cascades but a classic nonetheless, the saddle privy between the Grand and Middle Teton.

quote: Originally posted by E_Mohler: Strickland – As usual you’re tripping over your own words. You failed to mention Leavenworth as your local crag. If you’re not a local then leave your crowbar at home. Eric Well Dude, whoever you are...the only tripping I'm doing ain't legal...I was at Leavenworth to assist the efforts of a local - Retro. If you'd pull your head out of your ass long enough you might remember that from the incessant shitstorm after DDD. So easily disposed of...so utterly useless, your arguments are a disgrace to the art of rhetorical debate. ALL YOU BASE ARE BELONG TO US, BITCH

Bend him over Pope, give him the Choir-Boy treatment. (Seriously, ID fraud is not to be messed with, even on a spray-heavy board like this)

Back when I started climbing: "We didn't have all this fancy gear, we just tied the ropes around our dongs and put a bunch of pitons in our mouths like roofing tacks, we didn't need these new fangled EBs or them spendy goldline ropes" - Beckey as related by Cpt C.

quote: Originally posted by E_Mohler: You guy's are the biggest bunch of loud mouth losers that obviously never climb anything hard. If you got a problem with bolts then don't clip them. Strickland is nothing short of a hypocritical jackass. I don't see him pulling bolts out of Heinous Cling. Eric Hey Eric, nice to meet you. I'm really glad that you could take time out of your busy schedule to enlighten me on how I never climb anything hard. Although I must admit that I don't quite understand what the grade I climb at has to do with anything...are you asking me to climb a hard route with you? I'll have to check my dance card. Hmm, "jackass"...I like it! A new nickname, you've got that 'ol President Bush charm workin'...just give all a nickname and they'll love ya. Or maybe it was a "subliminababbababbbllee" message? Heinous Cling? Isn't that some sport-monkey hoop to jump through at Smith? You see, I wouldn't know because I've been to Smith exactly twice, climbed one bolted line and several trad routse and I'm not likely to return unless it's to climb on the basalt trad lines. Judging from your asinine comments (that means inane, or stupid...I assume you're probably a bit mentally challenged hence the help with the vocabulary) you seem to think that I hail from Oregon or that I live near Smith. I love Oregon, but I'm certainly not a "local" at Smith or anywhere else around here. If I'm a "local" anywhere it's in absentia and at T-Wall, Lost Wall, and Tallulah Gorge. And as a final offering of cordial greetings I provide the following: As a very special "welcome to CC" Sexual Chocolate would like to teach you the misunderstood art of Moondancing. Cheers ehh!

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: And why the hell don't you guys come clean and post what the hell you guys do for a living, huh? Damn chocolate, if you want to know that bad just do an archive search, there was a thread a few months ago where people gave the skinny on their employment situation... I do alot of stuff, I'm basically between a Masters and a PhD intending to teach at the post-secondary level in Park and Rec Admin. Since my bachelor's is in Civil Engineering and engineering work pays well and is fairly easy to get in the NW with a degree from a good school, I currently work in civil infrastructure projects management (primarily highways but also bridges, stormwater systems, etc) for a local municipality. It's rapidly paying off the debt I incurred while climbing full time. Now, pony-up buddy...what's the moondancing scoop?

Well Cavey, Attribute the misquote to my poor short-term memory, something to do with those big pitons, what are they called again? Ahh yes, the how do you say...bongs...

I was going to the southeast for the holidays but with all the terrorism foolishness I'm not getting on a plane anytime soon. If you're driving I'd be up for it, RR trad or Zion walls...I've done both, might think about the Rainbow Wall at RR too.

What the hell are you apologizing for Pope? Stand up for what you believe in, fuck the naysayers.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: of course when you are at the ledge or belay you can't use all your daisy holes to sort out gear if you only have lazy chains. only 2 holes!! Good point, but my ledge has daisy loops all the way up two of the pieces of suspension, so not a problem.