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Everything posted by willstrickland
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Dude, you threw everyone off with the "stinky, abused" stuff, peeps probably stopped reading after that and didn't get the humour. Post 'em individually with the piece of gear as the subject, I'll bet you get plenty of interest.
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1. Favorite Climb? Serenity->Sons 2. Favorite Climber? Werner Braun 3. Always-wanted-to-do-that climb? Shield
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quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I know that there are tons in the PNW pulling super hard. Where are these stiff little numbers I know there has to be harder stuff around. I think you might want to look in the yellow pages under "gay porn" or perhaps "jack-shacks"
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Sheee-yat man, I was riding at Meadows on Sat and every trip up the lift between going "holy jeez it's windy" I was thinking "that dude trying to climb the southside is WAY MISERABLE right now". Glad you knew when to say when. Riding was quite the adventure though since visibility was maybe 10ft, good snow though.
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quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: That is the lowest thing I have ever seen in my entire life.Hey Rod, aren't you a lawyer? Got a mirror? Worthless piece of shit. I hope that CC:er is hit by a bus full of nuns holding babies on the way to the hospital, and it doesn't stop. I would then pee on the CC:ers grave. What a gutless and classless person. Now you're hitting the general public's sentiment towards lawyers. No bady wants to be around that kind of person. Why do posters on this site take it?Now you're talkin' brother. Oh, wait, I take it all back, it was all a joke, don't sue me, please, don't sue me
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Arsoli (Lazio, Italy) Bastard (Norway) Beaver (Oklahoma, USA) Beaver Head (Idaho, USA) Chinaman's Knob (Australia) Climax (Colorado, USA) Cornwall, (UK) Dildo (Newfoundland, Canada) Dong Rack (Thailand-Cambodia border) Dongo (Congo -Democratic Republic) Donk (Belgium) Fuku (Shensi, China) Fukue (Honshu, Japan) Fukum (Yemen) Hold With Hope (Greenland) Intercourse (Pennsylvania, USA) Lickey End (West Midlands, UK) Lord Berkeley's Knob (Sutherland, Scotland) Middle Intercourse Island (Australia) Muff (Northern Ireland) Nobber (Donegal, Ireland) Pis Pis River (Nicaragua) Sexmoan (Luzon, Philippines) Seymen (Turkey) Shafter (California, USA) Shag Island (Indian Ocean) Shitlingthorpe (Yorkshire, UK) Stains (Near Paris, France) Tittybong (Australia) Turdo (Romania) Twatt (Orkney, UK) Twatt (Shetland, UK) Wankendorf (Schleswig-Holstein, Germany) Wankener (India) Wankie (Zimbabwe) Wankie Colliery (Zimbabwe) Wanks River (Nicaragua) Wet Beaver Creek (Australia)
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Attention Big Wallers and Writers!
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
quote: Originally posted by David Parker: Hey Will, either you are a belligerent drunk and have had too much scotch or you ran out of weed. Both Billy would actually qualify as a partner for your expedition, 'cept he's married and has a kid now and doesn't have two months. Hell Dave, there's loads of peeps climbing that grade,that's nothing special, it's the other things that weed out potential people. From what you say above he doesn't meet most of the criteria I laid out. Take another bong hit and chill out!See above. -
WTF are you talking about molester? What do you consider a "great"? I mean damn, Matt Anderson nearly onsighted the entire Rainbow Wall, that's pretty impressive. Wallstein could be one of the best young wall climbers in the PNW for all we know, he's definitely got plenty of experience and leads harder aid than I wanna think about. I don't know him, but it sound like Alpine K has done some crazy shit. I doubt Steve House has the time or really gives a shit what other people think, and most of the hard-asses are probably out there CLIMBING instead of wishing they were climbing. Just because you've never heard of them doesn't mean they're not pulling down, who had heard of Tait Reese before Steph dropped his name in a letter to Climbing and those Simon Carter photos showed up in R&I? Who outside Utah knew Jeff Pedersen from anything other than having FA credits all over the Utah sport-monkey guides before the R&I profile? Same deal with alot of people, I met two 50-something desert rats who were onsighting 5.12 trad routes and nobody's ever heard of them or ever will because unlike us (Me, you and everyone else here) they don't spray about it. Just think about this: Dean Potter was unknown to most of the climbing world as late as a few years ago.
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quote: Originally posted by jules: Don't want to burst any bubbles but...... Moonstone - owned by Pacific TrailPacific Trail - owned by London FogPatagonia - uses cheap labor in El Salvador (and probably elsewhere) Yeah, but for how long? Moonstone's been bought and sold more than once in the last 4 years. It's cool sometimes because they seem to clear out their stock when they get sold and you can get stuff really cheap, but it sucks when they quit making some of their best stuff. I've got a pair of their Evolution pants that are the bomb, Scholler dryskin extreme, kind like those LL Bean guide pants, but with better features/attention to detail. I talked with a CS rep at Moonstone last week and they don't intend to make them again and don't have any old stock...bummer. As for the 'gucci being made in a hacky-sack factory, that's probably a good thing, I've never been able to completely destroy a leather hacky-sack even after years of kicking it around it the dirt.
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In the interest of a semi-useful thread (I'm over my spray quota, what can I say)I offer the following. What are your favorite uncommon knots or rope tricks and why/for what situation? I personally found these to be good in the bag o tricks: Garda hitch. Extremely useful anytime you need an emergency haul system, want to haul a pack, or even for emergency ascending (although it's a bitch to use for ascending). Bowline on a bight (aka atomic clip) For fun-in-the-sun type multi-pitch it's a super fast way to anchor to a 2-bolt belay station.
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Just wondering what you geeks have hanging on your cubicle/office/whereveryouwork wall. Mine: Landscapes of Half Dome and El Cap, and a climbing pic of Celia Bull on the FA of the VI 5.10 A4+ Yawira Batu on El Gigante.
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Attention Big Wallers and Writers!
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
/FatBastard mode = on/ Or "on shite" laddy, if you happen to be in Pope's sleeping bag, now get in my belly! I want my babybackbabybackbabyback, the other other white meat. /FatBastard mode = off/ -
Attention Big Wallers and Writers!
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
quote: Originally posted by pope: On-sight. Pardon me while I vomit. We didn't say "on-sight" because it was assumed. Go read the original thread Pope, the term was applied because we had no prior knowledge of the route, in fact didn't know whether we were on a previously climbed line (although granted it's too obvious on the lower half to not have been climbed), and had no idea of the difficulties we might encounter. Only after we had descended did we consult a guidebook to figure out what we had climbed. As far as we knew, we might as well have been on a FA, to me that's one way to get adventure out of an area that's been "climbed out" so to speak. The term was used because it best conveyed the style of ascent...no prior knowledge, no falls, no fuck-ups. I didn't coin the term, I don't really think it even belongs in the mountaineering vocabulary, BUT language is a limiting form of expression and you use what you can to best convey your meaning. As for you Billy, I don't know what you're deal is. I've never claimed to be some hardman rockstar, in fact I'm regularly self-deprecating on this board. So my man, what will I wow you with next? Uhhmmm pictures of your mom doing midget porn? Yeah, maybe that. Cheers Billy -
Attention Big Wallers and Writers!
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
Guide...BHAAAAAAA! You're funny Jim, but you know what they say about all those comedians out of work and such -
Attention Big Wallers and Writers!
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
It amazes me that someone with 34 posts can make such an ass of themselves in such a short period of time, bravo Billy, bravo. I mean, it must have taken me at least 200 to make as big of an ass of myself. When you grow a pair and remove your head from your ass, then speak up. Until then, STFU. As I recall, you were the stupid fuck arguing that the term "onsight" could not be applied to an alpine route in my very first post to this board - a trip report on a simul-solo of the Reid headwall. So in summary you can lick it -
Want a Double or single? Need a Fly too?
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Want a Double or single? Need a Fly too?
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Attention Big Wallers and Writers!
willstrickland replied to willstrickland's topic in Climber's Board
If one is a fast women, I've got a double portaledge and a large set of nuts. I like to pound it home, but am delicate with the small features. Sorry NachoTacoBurrito, I don't intent to be rude here, but that's need to know basis. -
[ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: willstrickland ]
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Damn Matt, great minds and all that. Did ya get those tapes? You don't check your PMs I see.
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CCH Aliens, hands down. They're actually 4CU's but narrower than all the 3cu's I've seen. Why the best? 1. Very narrow head design, fits where others won't.2. 4 cams allow for reasonably secure 2-cam placements in really shallow stuff (very useful when aiding)3. Stems are super flexible, so you don't have perma-tweaks in your stem cable.4. Internal springs in the cam lobes. Leaves less exposed trigger wire to fray and break (and allows that narrow profile). Downside?1. They get gritty/sticky quicker than others because of the "sleeve".2. They're sometimes hard to place with gloves on(but they all are)
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Now that I've got you're attention maybe someone can help out. I'm looking for a wall climber with the following characteristics: 1. Zion experience (should have done several wall routes there) 2. Can lead SANDSTONE 5.11, A3+ 3. Is a college grad and/or good writer (preferably published) 4. Is unemployed, or willing to become unemployed 5. Is not a Jesus freak 6. Partakes of the devil weed 7. Has own transportation (not so important), and own wall gear (very important) 8. Can party like a rock star and still be responsible and get shit done 9. Enjoys cheap beer, fast women, and expensive scotch This ain't a quiz, I'm looking for someone for a project that will last several months at minimum.
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quote: Originally posted by hikerwa: Well, I can't stand all the logos all over my cams, I usually grind them off. And what's up with the metolious deal, bunch a money grubbin corporate bastards. I'll use my home made balsa wood blocks with baling twine. Sweet! I gotta route for you. You'll need ice tools, crampons, 2x4s, sunscreen, and a big set of balls. Drive out to the San Rafael desert and look for the biggest, most prominent butte, it's east to spot, name is Factory Butte. You'll have no worries with corporate BS or self-promotion, in fact nobody will know you're there. Oh, BTW there's no snow or ice in sight, you'll be using those tools and cramps to climb the vertical mud/dirt and those 2x4s and your balsa-block/baling wire cams will be the only pro. When you summit, clean out your shorts and relish in the fact that you just made the 3rd ascent. Don't buy it? I think Crack can vouch, he's seen it.
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In my eyes, the best thing those DMM have going for them are the doubled up slings...clip em both for a short sling or clip one for a longer one. Of course, you can do this to any of your cams with cordage or have it done with webbing.