slothrop

But it doesn't sound like they cruised the Lithuanian Lip, since "aiders" were mentioned. Just curious.

Couldn't you also hook your fifi into a loop on your regular ol' daisy for opposition when top-stepping?

I don't think this poll will be statistically valid, so CBS could never take the results seriously. Polls from sites that allow multiple anonymous avatars have been conclusively proven to be unreliable. It certainly won't be accepted for publication by the Annals of the Anal-Retentive.

Cool. Did the second just follow the aid bits using, uh, aid?

My, such cynicism from the Geek! Maybe everyone wants to keep adventure in rap-bolting by not giving up the detailed beta. It'd be a shame to ruin someone's rap-bolting onsight. Seriously, there have got to be as many ways to do it as there are routes. There would be some combination of numerous cleaning sessions, marking bolt placements, and climbing the route to assess the moves and potential bolts. You could do all this on rappel, while hanging from hooks, free soloing, on lead, or some combination of those. Hand-drill or Sly Stallone style.

I climbed at K Cliff at Index for the first time the other day and was curious about a route there. We climbed some newer routes that I'd heard about through tomtom(?), but there's one to the right of Rise Pumpkin Rise that's also not in Sky Valley Rock: two bolts to a little ledge, then up and right via a thin slanting corner, looks like 5.10ish? Anyone know its name and rating? When's the new SVR coming out, anyway?

BD Sabretooths (teeth?) are nice. Need antibot plates, though.

Well, you better at least post before and after photos so we can all scrutinize your work from our chairs. I don't suppose this'd be Pearly Gates, would it?

I've never done it, but there are as many ways as your imagination, courage, and skill allow. Drill by hand on lead, hang on gear or hooks, pre-inspect, clean, and drill on TR--all of these techniques are used. Some people thoughtfully take the time to talk to locals about what the prevailing method is and respect that tradition. Chipping, bolts next to available gear placements, and overbolting are all usually considered poor form, to say the least. If you're going to permanently alter the rock (with bolts) and introduce greater potential for impact (with a new trail), it sure seems worthwhile to carefully consider why you're going through all the trouble and work.

I'm sure your stuff is just fine. Save yourself some trouble and pay CBS in beer to go over your rope with his magnifying glass.

Go listen to that mp3 of the New Orleans mayor in the other thread... drug addicts holding up hospitals. He seemed to say that he asked for martial law to be declared. Attacking aid workers is just unacceptable. I think that kind of thing deserves immediate deadly retribution.

Get on it, Jay!

This year is a bad one for tropical storms. There have already been twice as many named storms in the Atlantic as the yearly average, and the season lasts through November.

"wbk" is out of town for a while, but I can assure you he'll take you up on the offer.

When will people learn that you must keep your child on a leash at all times? http://www.tbotech.com/child-guard.htm

Funding to be provided for this project through the Northwest Forest Pass.

I can't say I really understand JoshK's motherly criticism. The route is obviously dangerous. Loren and Jens obviously know that. Whether someone climbs this route (in the first ascent, or in the future) is between themselves, their kin, and the arbitrary deathcicles of the glaciers--not JoshK. This reminds me of reading about the olden days when the tweedy Alpine Club sat around and chastised bold climbers for being too dangerous. Nice job, guys. No effin' way I'd climb that thing.

Oh yeah, I betcha rat is a real ponytail kinda guy.

The new version seems to weigh twice as much as the original. Bah.

Looks like you got a pretty good intro to alpine climbing, Mike!

Shit, we're totally going to invade France now.

Awesome! Is this the kind of thing that you need a reservation/permit for?

Calculus Crack is fun. Same approach as St. Vitus' Dance, then two long cracks, from 5.4 to 5.8.

It's next to Darrington. It's in the Beckey guide, numerous TRs here, and the NWMJ. Could you maybe be more specific?

Uh, yeah. Just get a new rope if the one you have will work. Good advice. You'd probably get funny looks, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Wear a helmet and use alpine draws instead of dogbones for even more funny looks.