slothrop

Re: Sugar My partner consumed a pack of donuts and a 32-oz. soda and felt sick on the approach to Blueberry Hill Saturday. It makes me a little nauseous just thinking about it. Maybe you're just pregnant.

It would be interesting in a twisted sort of way to watch the players drop like flies from exhaustion after 3 hours

Tall people make easy targets (Materazzi's 6' 4"). If he were shorter, he'd have a broken nose.

Pay closer attention. Each team gets five penalty kicks and then it goes to sudden death PKs. That's not at all like winning a cointoss for first possession.

Great TR, Fern.

Wow. Classic.

I'd only really want to do the length adjustment you're talking about in certain situations. It sounds like it'd put a lot of friction on the rope (against rock and anchor point). The leg wrap thing is good. I just slap on an autoblock when I know in advance I'll want to do lots of two-handed futzing around on the way down. Ten seconds for a little peace of mind is worth it to me, when I think it'll be useful.

I find an autoblock backup most useful for when I know I'll have to do something while rapping, like free a stuck rope or gear, or look around for the next rap station. Then I can do whatever it is with two hands and peace of mind. It might not save you from rapping off the end, but a backup might keep you safe while you try to unfuck yourself after seeing two uneven ends slide toward your brake hand well short of the next anchor.

I like Dru's method of backing up with a prusik (put it above the device). What are the disadvantages of doing it this way? I guess it requires a longer sling, but not so long that it locks up out of reach. Anything else?

The George and Dragon in Fremont is a very popular football-watching spot. Get there early.

Oh, man. Keep on keepin' on, Kurt. I hope you have some cute nurses giving you spongebaths. I look forward to the Return of Kurt Pub Club.

STFU, wank. Gary-bashing is getting real old. Another bold climb from the daring duo. Nice job, guys.

Yeah, post them shits. Unless it was AlpineDave.

The Fan Route is kinda fun because the rock is different, but watch out for Z-clipping. At the Columns, Inca Roads is a must-do (as is everything else on Off's list ). Entrance Exam is a fun one, one stiff move of 5.7 into a cool little chimney. You can TR a couple harder face climbs from the top. Jam Exam also lets you access Solar King, a sweet thin corner to long handcrack.

Exit 32 really does have some good sport climbs. The guidebook "Climbing Washington" shows enough routes there for a full day. Definitely do (from left to right) the 10c next to Human Foot, Mambo Jambo (5.9 handcrack, can easily top-rope it if you don't have a rack), Goddess 10b, Sticky and Sweet 5.9, Godflesh 11a, and most any route at World Wall One except for that shitty 10b next to Reptiles and Amphetamines. Long routes, great rock, just enough sun, and some climbs stay completely dry in the rain. Short hike, too.

Going to Japan for two weeks! Work, then play.

I hiked up to Camp Muir mostly in a whiteout one April with some friends. We probably put sunscreen on once because, hey, we couldn't see no sun. The next morning, my roommate was nearly unrecognizable and I looked like I'd been bitch-slapped unconscious. The next weekend, peeling and pink, I met my girlfriend of the last five years.

WTF? Did you trundle death on him or what?

Montrail D7s aren't bad. They even have some toe rand for foot jams and are fairly narrow in profile. Dru's right about Mtn Masters... Mine are falling apart in funny ways. Rubber's great, though.

Hey buddy! If you're so excited, maybe you should actually contribute something useful here instead of this here spam. Also, please specify how grateful you would be if we "spread the word". Are we talking "happy ending" or just a clammy handshake?

STFU, Dru. I'm going to punish you for being a contrarian argumentative asshole, which is perfectly legal, by not letting you have any of my cheesy poofs.

"Innocent", WTF? He admitted to climbing it. Any fool can see that the NPS meant to ban climbing named arches, but the legalese wasn't up to snuff. Him suffering no consequences and climbers suffering a worsened relationship with land managers is the worst possible outcome. If there's no legal path to punishment, then Patagonia and any other sponsors should do something to take up the slack.

Ah, the bright side of being laid off due to NPS funding cutbacks: better pay in the private sector as a secret agent.

Rad. Way to do it in good style.

If someone breaks the rules so blatantly and publicly, and gets away with no punishment, it's a clear sign that what he did is really OK and that the rules are not to be respected. Just like one redneck carving "I luv Misty 4eva" in an arch won't cause it to fall down, one skinny self-promotional climber won't either. It's the principle of the thing. You have to continue to defend the principle, even if it's been sullied before. Otherwise, there's no point.