slothrop

I've never done it, but there are as many ways as your imagination, courage, and skill allow. Drill by hand on lead, hang on gear or hooks, pre-inspect, clean, and drill on TR--all of these techniques are used. Some people thoughtfully take the time to talk to locals about what the prevailing method is and respect that tradition. Chipping, bolts next to available gear placements, and overbolting are all usually considered poor form, to say the least. If you're going to permanently alter the rock (with bolts) and introduce greater potential for impact (with a new trail), it sure seems worthwhile to carefully consider why you're going through all the trouble and work.

I'm sure your stuff is just fine. Save yourself some trouble and pay CBS in beer to go over your rope with his magnifying glass.

Go listen to that mp3 of the New Orleans mayor in the other thread... drug addicts holding up hospitals. He seemed to say that he asked for martial law to be declared. Attacking aid workers is just unacceptable. I think that kind of thing deserves immediate deadly retribution.

Get on it, Jay!

This year is a bad one for tropical storms. There have already been twice as many named storms in the Atlantic as the yearly average, and the season lasts through November.

"wbk" is out of town for a while, but I can assure you he'll take you up on the offer.

When will people learn that you must keep your child on a leash at all times? http://www.tbotech.com/child-guard.htm

Funding to be provided for this project through the Northwest Forest Pass.

I can't say I really understand JoshK's motherly criticism. The route is obviously dangerous. Loren and Jens obviously know that. Whether someone climbs this route (in the first ascent, or in the future) is between themselves, their kin, and the arbitrary deathcicles of the glaciers--not JoshK. This reminds me of reading about the olden days when the tweedy Alpine Club sat around and chastised bold climbers for being too dangerous. Nice job, guys. No effin' way I'd climb that thing.

Oh yeah, I betcha rat is a real ponytail kinda guy.

The new version seems to weigh twice as much as the original. Bah.

Looks like you got a pretty good intro to alpine climbing, Mike!

Shit, we're totally going to invade France now.

Awesome! Is this the kind of thing that you need a reservation/permit for?

Calculus Crack is fun. Same approach as St. Vitus' Dance, then two long cracks, from 5.4 to 5.8.

It's next to Darrington. It's in the Beckey guide, numerous TRs here, and the NWMJ. Could you maybe be more specific?

Uh, yeah. Just get a new rope if the one you have will work. Good advice. You'd probably get funny looks, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Wear a helmet and use alpine draws instead of dogbones for even more funny looks.

Yeah, the slippery green rock in the gully is geologically interesting but climbingly asstastic.

"You can be my wingman anytime."

I blame the Italian death rate on the lack of big American SUVs in that backward socialist nation. They're safer. You know, because they're big.

Hey Oly! I heard about your proud send. Great job, man. Do you climb much around Washington? If you need a partner sometime, let me know. I'll totally carry your nutsack for you. Good luck in your future endeavors!

I'll take the RURP and KBs... don't need the webbing, though, since I'm sponsored by 9/16" Webbing'teryx. Just curious, how many falls has the RURP held? I don't want any sketchy gear.

Oh, man! How long is that couloir? Frickin' amazing!

Yes.

Great TR!