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specialed

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Everything posted by specialed

  1. I wonder why ...
  2. You should check out Nelson's Select Vol's 1 and 2. That should keep you busy for a while.
  3. Climb: Boula Boula Buttress- Date of Climb: 9/25/2004 Trip Report: Dan Cappellini, Eric Wherley, and I climbed a line that was probably new on Boula Boula Butress in the Enchantments. From what we could tell our line was left of Yoder and Co.'s line that climbed the clean white rock on the east face. Our line was just right of the central prow. We encountered primarily solid rock, but also a lot of dirt and vegetation filled cracks. There was also a lot of nice clean flakes and some really nice climbing. The hardest pitch was led by Eric and consisted of steep stemming in a corner where most of the usable cracks were filled in with dirt and vegetation. Eric took a nice 25 footer here, before getting back on the horse and finishing the pitch. He also encountered a steep right trending wet crack and used some aid to bypass this section as the crack was very slimy and wet but would probably go free at easy 5.11 if dry. The followers bypassed this to the right by making a 5.10 face move on brilliant rock. The final pitch was led by Dan through bomber 5.9 flakes to a left leaning undercling / hand crack and a wild layback mantle move to finish. It was rather licheny and dirty, but once cleaned by Dan on lead made a superb 10a pitch for the followers. That pitch topped out right on the summit which was very cool. In sum: Nine pitches, III+ , 10+ (with some C1); nice belay ledges. The next day we did the Fred Stanley route on Prussik. All in all a beautiful fall weekend in the Enchantments with stellar fall colors and lots of sun and moon shine. Gear Notes: rock climbing equipment Approach Notes: Ass Guard Pass
  4. Go to 11worth, walk around all gumby climbs looking for booty. Whatever you find is your new rack.
  5. BOLT THE WORLD BEYOTCH!!!
  6. On the contrary, I heard the FS wants to chop the route b/c its a stupid, contrived, over-rated gape fest.
  7. Cool. Its definitly time an update. Though Big Sky Ice was a great source of beta for a long time.
  8. "If you aren't suffering from chronic oxygen deprivation hallucinations and chasing nonexistent Yetis through the Himalayas - you aren't trying."
  9. Maybe if it was supposed to be hot and sunny, which it ain't.
  10. It was a lot fuckin drier last year. But NR is still a "mountain climb" it is never too steep and can be done in less than perfect conditions fur sure. Just don't expect it to be as easy or quick as it would be in July.
  11. Wet and snowy, most likeley verglass - at least by the variation like Bone says. And what the fuck are you doing up at 4 in the morning?
  12. specialed

    Half ton!

    That dude used to weigh as much as my full size pickup.
  13. His 8a.nu score must be off the hook!
  14. Off the top of my head, seems all drainages out of Enchantments lead directly to civilizaion, unlike Middle Fork Snoqualmie Area or the North Cascades. It must take some serious talent to get lost there for ten fucking days.
  15. But add one letter grade for every bolt you skip (but only if the climb is within 3 letter grades of your best Redpoint, if not only add .2); add .8 letter grades for every Gaston, Figure 4, or Drop Knee; two letter grades for a sit start, but subtract 1.56 letter grades for wearing pink lycra tights.
  16. Good point Except those moves tend to be fuckin strenuous!!
  17. Big deal. Its the same move over and over again. You can just get away with that shit in France. Here they'd arrest you for being El Quaida and shit.
  18. Fuckin Communist Hippy. Just like you damn liberals to leave the country on some acid-eating sex trip to Thailand right when your country needs you the most. For shame young man.
  19. Huh? This is so untrue it makes my head spin. where did you hang out, the mall at Tysons Corner? The people I hung out with were from all over the country and the world and had huge diversity of backgrounds and view points. Contrast to here where apparently you get issued your green suburu with a dog and a "free tibet" sticker when you get your 206 phone number. Since when does diversity equal Clean, White, Professional and Suburban? Though I'm sure the people you met there had some enthralling opinions on the current political issues of the day.
  20. Hell no. A friend sent it to me from Montana. I think its one of those motion triggered game cameras. Not photoshop though.
  21. I lived there for a few months. It sucked. Ass. You can boulder at some slippery ass place called Carter Rock where you can work on your footwork to the point of extreme nausea. But there is actually a lot boulders in the woods around there that probably haven't been climbed on since George Washington was cranking v6. Seneca is like 4 hours through lots of traffic and super windy west viriginia roads. Other than that, just don't mention alpine climbing to anyone or be prepared for blank stares and a look of complete incomprehension. Also be prepared to deal with omnipresent self-righteous suburban volvo driving beaurocrats and perhaps the most bland monoculture found in any city in the country. However, so as not to be totally negative, D.C. does have lots of awesome dog parks and a cool dog owner scene.
  22. There it is: Empirical proof that drinking causes coherence and clarity.
  23. Yeah that five inches of snow and driving wind up at Hart's Pass on Saturday would have been "great" for climbing.
  24. Attention Whore.
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