rat

quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Rat,Don't you know a little about dry tooling? dry tooling? hell no. you think i'm going to shove an ice tool up my butt without giving it a good lube job first? i usually give my tools a healthy coating of vasoline first, that way they slide in and out real easy.

do any of you use any of the various cd-rom map products available for parts of b.c. and alberta? likes, dislikes, worth the $?

the wall was dusted with snow this morning with some verglas in the white fright/white slabs area. white slabs/country club may be good right now if it doesn't snow much more. snowing now with about an inch on the ground but the recent storms dumped almost all of their loads closer to the crest. there isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo.

the wall was dusted with snow this morning with some verglas in the white fright/white slabs area. white slabs/country club may be good right now if it doesn't snow much more. snowing now with about an inch on the ground but the recent storms dumped almost all of their loads closer to the crest. there isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo.

dbb, the granite at banks lake is located near steamboat rock state park just south of coulee city. there has been a fair amount of development by idaho and spokane climbers, both trad and sport. the rock can be scaley and friable due to its proximity to the basalt.

there is good sandstone bouldering at larrabee state park and a few other locales south of bellingham. mt. erie, near antacortes, would also be a place to check.

"the polar circus" was kind of a cool canadian publication in its day but i think it went belly up or was folded into the caj.

[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: rat ]

lots of skiing has been done on peaks along hwy. 97 but the best runs require a snow mobile or some extra effort (road skiing). check out miller pk., iron mt., the three brothers, navaho pk., and wedge mountain. never skied on diamond but i hear that you need to really watch out for the talus.

can anyone tell me what the recent monsoons did to the snow coverage on mt. index? i'm specifically interested in the start of the klewin route (north/middle couloir) and the amount of brush showing on west face near the EDM route. thanks. sorry for the redundant post.

can anybody tell me what the recent monsoons did to the snow levels on mt. index? i'm specifically interested in the amount of snow coverage at the start of the klewin route (north/middle couloir) and amount of brush showing on the lower part of the EDM route. thanks.

ya gotta lot a nerve there, doc. who you callin' billy bob?

drury is a raging waterfall, with just a smattering of ice on its left side. the line to the left of drury is threatened by huge hanging icicles which might fall this week. the pencil is basically gone. dabs of ice here and there. the line at the head of the gully that is not as exposed to sunlight still looks doable but that might change quickly (more rain forcasted, i think). the river is way up. that said, there are still a few thin smears here and there and 2 routes up rat creek also survived. nothing to get excited about. hope we get a dry cold front after the next storm front.

i don't know what a "sillyvillian" is and i'm not an aussie either. everyone knows i am a two-faced piece of shit and my teaching days are over--always aim for the welcome mat cause aiming for the flower pot is a wasted show of respect.

it forms more and more rarely--thanks to global warming, i bet. i haven't seen it form since the 1996-1997 season. never climbed it but crazy jz can tell ya about watching a guy (stoddard, i think) shake his way up it in the 80's.

while the routes may have been climbed before, there are no access issues. the approach and routes lie on u.s. forest service land.

a few "new" routes in the leavenworth area. route names, ratings, and first ascent info are based solely on my arrogance. remember, i am "a dumbshit, loser, and poseur." these routes should be forming but i haven't checked them lately. Hidden Lake (routes located in w1/2 sec26 t27n r16e):approach by driving the south shore road along lake wenatchee to its end. park at the camp zanika parking area (end of the plowed county road) and hike/ski/snowshoe to glacierview campground. hike up the usfs trail to hidden lake. from the west end of the lake(2267' elev.), make your way upslope to "the flats" (about 2900' elev.). "this too shall pass", "timequake", and the two brushier unclimbed lines inbetween are visible from "the flats". "my ten years on automatic pilot" and "last rite" are out of sight to the left. this is a 3+ mile approach with about 1600' elevation gain. skis would be useful on the road/trail but you'll likely want snowshoes above the lake. all routes can be scoped on clear days from the north shore road just prior to the lake wenatchee ranger station. the cliff itself is quite brushy but the routes are worth the effort. the area gets little/no sunlight and once the climbs form, they stick around ("last rite" was climbed in early march when it was about 70 degrees in seattle). this also means that you may fight snow-covered ice earlier in the winter. avalanche danger exists on/above the routes and can exist on the steep descent slopes. routes are described from climber's right to left. no photos, sorry. 1. "this too shall pass": 1 long or 2 short WI3-4 pitches up a left facing corner on the far right side of the cliffs. it may be possible to continue up lower angle brushy ice for a little ways. descend by walking right into the trees and down the large avalanche path that forms the right side of the climbing area. (fa(?): rat. 1997)2. unclimbed(?) line of brushy ice.3. another unclimbed(?) line of brushy ice.4. "timequake": 4-5 pitches of ice up to WI3+ separated by short snow slopes. 2-3 pitches of WI2-3 lead to 2 nice pitches up WI3+ pillars. descend by rapping/downclimbing or traversing left to one of the next two climbs. (fa(?): b. gaines, rat. 1/11/01)5. "last rite": this beautiful 150' WI5 pillar is just right of the second pitch of "my ten years...". we climbed "timequake" to below the final pitch and traversed left and down to the first pitch of "my ten years...". you can also reach the pillar by traversing left and down from the top of "timequake". descend as for the next climb. (fa(?): m. gunlogson, rat. 3/7/01)6. "my ten years on automatic pilot": first climbed by taking "timequake" to the first WI3+ pitch then traversing left to a long WI2 pitch that leads to the snow slope below "last rite". "my ten years..." takes the beautiful 130' WI4 pillar to the left. descend by rapping the pillar or walking down to the left. rap off trees to get to the bottom of the first pitch then make your way down through steep trees and hidden cliffs (may need one short rap) to the start of "timequake". (fa(?): rat. 1/15/01) that's my story and i'm sticking to it.

"and for these reasons, they are not suited for vertical water ice." boy, i'm glad that i'm not the only dumbshit around here.

i am a dumb shit.

actually epb, i am the dumb shit. i am the dumbest shit that ever walked the face of the earth. my parents were dumb shits. i come from a long line of incredibly dumb shit. and yes, i would bite you if only you would let me. it would be my greatest pleasure to nibble you from head to toe. but alas i am unworthy and i know this (being as i am a dumb shit). can i at least buy you a beer sometime? i am rat and i suck.

epb, quit being a dumbshit.

my fine friend, crazy jz, and i met darryl hatton at the cliffside pub in squamish. he was having dinner (a big ol' steak) and sharing the table with peter croft, et. al. he told us, "i'm forty, look like i'm 50, and feel like i'm 60." i heard a rumor that he died of AIDS (dirty needles would be the likely scenario). rest in peace.

rat sucks as a user name

yea, the guy spells worse than kfeck (sorry, dude) and you'd probably spend an unnecessary night out or lose a bunch of gear if you followed his descent directions for north trapper peak. best to take all his, and any guidebook's, info with a large grain of salt and a shot of tequila.

fern is smart.