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Everything posted by plexus
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Thanks Jason and Steve for doing this. All of it, from getting Kloke Peak renamed, creating and placing the summit register and most importantly, embarking on a Kloke-esque adventure to commemorate it. I don't think I ever would have climbed Step Sister or Last Sister if not for a hand-drawn "Dallas" map. Heck I still have a whole guidebook of those for Mount Erie that I will keep forever even if I haven't lived in the PacNW for two decades. IMG_5864.HEIC
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[TR] Fortress and Helmet Butte - Standard 07/28/2024
plexus replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Thread was worth it just for that pic of Buck's face! -
[TR] Mount Watson- West Peak - North Arete 07/16/2024
plexus replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Good on you guys. I remember years ago getting to the base of that thing in late September. When I was racking up it began snowing... and didn't stop until the next May. Always wondered how that climb went and how good the rock quality was. Say hi to @Trent for me. -
[TR] Dakobed Traverse (Glacier peak finish) - 3/31/2013
plexus replied to jordansahls's topic in the *freshiezone*
Awesome report, awesome trip. And double bonus points for your partner having K2 Shuksans like me!! -
[TR] Mystery Ridge to Northern Pickets - Enchainment 8/15/2012
plexus replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Absolutely beautiful guys. I hope you two cherish the memory of the trip for a long time. Steph, what lens did you use for your shots? I'm figuring since you were trying to go light as possible, you just brought a 55 mm? Also did you use a hard walled case to protect your camera? Thanks -
Yikes - major avalanche near Steven's Pass 3 gone
plexus replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Climber's Board
I can only tell you what that has been like this season in Colorado. Out of the six avalanche fatalities, three were true backcountry (including a snowmobiler) and two were actually in-bounds but in closed areas. We have had a scary layer-cake snowpack this season, so much so that I have been playing it very conservative. My condolences to all the friends and families of the victims. One of the victims is known to us here in 'rado. -
Nearly spit out my beer laughing when I read this.
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Very nice. I was on top Ruth Mtn exactly 10 years ago. Very surreal day.
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That was a full-value day you got. You're guaranteed not to see anybody up there. I remember years ago bashing around for a couple of hours trying to find that "trail". Spooked a big bear. He spooked me as well. And you're right, Hagen Peak is pretty awesome.
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I bouldered for the first time in 2 months and for the first time since I had a tight capsule and two muscles fixed in my right shoulder. I was weak, my balance was crap and I have girly skin on my fingers. But the shoulder did not hurt or make any funny noises. Hurray for small miracles!
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I think you put it best to all of us who were lucky enough to have climbed/scrubbed routes/explored and camped with Dallas.
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I'm still too shocked and numb to share anything about a man whose passion for all aspects of life should be emulated by all of us.
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Funny because when I first read the post, the Pasayten is exactly what came to mind. You can definitely play with the rope on Lost and Lake peaks. Beautiful area and when I spent 4 days up there, we didn't see a soul.
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5-10 & 165 lbs. 173 K2 Shuksans with Pure Performance bindings. Love them but you can get bounced around pretty good on Sustrugi on those guys. However I love the touring ability vs performance level these skis equilibrate. If I could add another ski to the quiver, I would go get something a little fatter; would help on the Colorado powder days. [img:left]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EcJ-vCIJrIw/SfjOPMkWgII/AAAAAAAABWM/AmrFvQvvqzg/s1600-h/DSCN0953.JPG[/img]
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best of cc.com [TR] Pickets - South to North Ski Traverse 2/17/2010
plexus replied to Gaston's topic in North Cascades
I feel like I need to hand in my touring skis and ice axes now. Amazing feat guys. Absolutely beautiful shots. Can't wait to see the portfolio of photos. -
[TR] Rampart Ridge - Main Summit to Gold Creek 2/9/2010
plexus replied to ilookeddown's topic in Alpine Lakes
Very pretty. Funny but some of the most picturesque ski tours I have done ended up having the worst ski conditions at the time. I guess you do have to pay one way or another. Sucks about the Sno-Park ticket. You can fight it though. -
Thanks for the find. Helped inspire me.
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I spent two weeks on Virgin Gorda. Most definitely take your shoes. Two weeks of bouldering, snorkeling when you get too warm, more bouldering, etc.; and followed with lots of drinking at the little hut at the top of the trail down to The Baths. You'll love it. I believe I have a couple of pics from there posted in my gallery.
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When I decided to get into randonee, I went old school and found a pair of better Kua skis with some Silvretta 404 bindings. The idea was to ski in mtneering boots and then climb with them. It was cheap and I felt i would have no remorse if I completely destroyed the skis or bindings. I suffered through that for a year before upgrading to Shuksans mounted with Pure Freestyles and bought a pair of Scarpa Tornados. I went with the Tornados because I was able to justify to my significant other at the time, I can ski in alpine bindings with them to, hence a dual purpose. I love the skis and find the boots to be so-so. I have climbed (and downclimbed) 4th-class rock in them and never did I feel comfortable in it. But I survived. My advice is if you're looking only at moderate snow or ice, lean towards the ski side. It will be more fun -- and more likely safer for your ACLs. If you then want to climb hard, then either carry in your climbing boots, which I know a lot of people who do, or go on snowshoes.
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So to the peak baggers then, is it the journey or the summit? The other day I climbed the West Ridge of Pacific Peak here in Colorado. Went out and did the scrambling part -- which wasn't nearly as nice as I would have thought. I was about 2/3 of the way up the ridge when it turns into a talus slog. The fun being over and not really interested in tagging a summit, I downclimbed the ridge. Had a great day, didn't feel the need to tag a summit. I rarely do have that urge unless it's fun climbing most of the way to the top or if the views are going to be that much better up there.
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You guys were cruising. I'm impressed by your 4-hour time. You definitely have your lead switches and route finding dialed in. Though it sounds like everything magically unfolded the way you could have hoped in getting to the megadihedral. The mountain looks like great granite. I guess the haul in is the price you have to pay to get to some incredible rock in the Cascades. Did you do a combo of downclimbing/shortroping and rappelling down the ridge or just downclimbing?
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A lot less snow than the time I ran up that with Scott and Dallas. How active was that face shedding snow when you guys were climbing up the gully?