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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Yes, Lets all go to Pakistan! Iranistan, Wherever we want !!!
  2. Subject: Fw: Very interesting post by someone who knows Sarah Palin > well > > As a retired library media specialist I am particularly appalled > to learn that Gov. Palin tried to fire the Wasilla Town Librarian > because she wouldn't remove the library materials that Sarah Palin > demanded. There are policies and procedures in place to challenge > materials in a library. Firing the librarian is NOT among the > options! > >> Begin forwarded message: >> >> >>>> >>>> This is a post in response to the Washington Independent article >>>> entitled "The Reform Candidate?" >>>> [http://www.washingtonindependent.com/3671/the-reform-candidate] >>>> >>>> Dear friends, >>>> >>>> So many people have asked me about what I know about Sarah Palin in >>>> the last 2 days that I decided to write something up . . . >>>> >>>> Basically, Sarah Palin and Hillary Clinton have only 2 things in >>>> common: their gender and their good looks. >>>> >>>> You have my permission to forward this to your friends/email >>>> contacts with my name and email address attached, but please do not >>>> post it on any websites, as there are too many kooks out there . . >>>> . >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> Anne >>>> >>>> ABOUT SARAH PALIN >>>> >>>> I am a resident of Wasilla, Alaska. I have known Sarah since 1992. >>>> Everyone here knows Sarah, so it is nothing special to say we are >>>> on a first-name basis. Our children have attended the same schools. >>>> Her father was my child's favorite substitute teacher. I also am on >>>> a first name basis with her parents and mother-in-law. I attended >>>> more City Council meetings during her administration than about 99% >>>> of the residents of the city. >>>> >>>> She is enormously popular; in every way she's like the most popular >>>> girl in middle school. Even men who think she is a poor choice and >>>> won't vote for her can't quit smiling when talking about her >>>> because she is a "babe". >>>> >>>> It is astonishing and almost scary how well she can keep a secret. >>>> She kept her most recent pregnancy a secret from her children and >>>> parents for seven months. >>>> >>>> She is "pro-life". She recently gave birth to a Down's syndrome >>>> baby. There is no cover-up involved, here; Trig is her baby. >>>> >>>> She is energetic and hardworking. She regularly worked out at the >>>> gym. >>>> >>>> She is savvy. She doesn't take positions; she just "puts things out >>>> there" and if they prove to be popular, then she takes credit. >>>> >>>> Her husband works a union job on the North Slope for BP and is a >>>> champion snowmobile racer. Todd Palin's kind of job is highly >>>> sought-after because of the schedule and high pay. He arranges his >>>> work schedule so he can fish for salmon in Bristol Bay for a month >>>> or so in summer, but by no stretch of the imagination is fishing >>>> their major source of income. Nor has her life-style ever been >>>> anything like that of native Alaskans. >>>> >>>> Sarah and her whole family are avid hunters. >>>> >>>> She's smart. >>>> >>>> Her experience is as mayor of a city with a population of about >>>> 5,000 (at the time), and less than 2 years as governor of a state >>>> with about 670,000 residents. >>>> >>>> During her mayoral administration most of the actual work of >>>> running this small city was turned over to an administrator. She >>>> had been pushed to hire this administrator by party power-brokers >>>> after she had gotten herself into some trouble over precipitous >>>> firings which had given rise to a recall campaign. >>>> >>>> Sarah campaigned in Wasilla as a "fiscal conservative". During her >>>> 6 years as Mayor, she increased general government expenditures by >>>> over 33%. During those same 6 years the amount of taxes collected >>>> by the City increased by 38%. This was during a period of low >>>> inflation (1996-2002). She reduced progressive property taxes and >>>> increased a regressive sales tax which taxed even food. The tax >>>> cuts that she promoted benefited large corporate property owners >>>> way more than they benefited residents. >>>> >>>> The huge increases in tax revenues during her mayoral >>>> administration weren't enough to fund everything on her wish list >>>> though, borrowed money was needed, too. She inherited a city with >>>> zero debt, but left it with indebtedness of over $22 million. What >>>> did Mayor Palin encourage the voters to borrow money for? Was it >>>> the infrastructure that she said she supported? The sewage >>>> treatment plant that the city lacked? or a new library? No. $1m for >>>> a park. $15m-plus for construction of a multi-use sports complex >>>> which she rushed through to build on a piece of property that the >>>> City didn't even have clear title to, that was still in litigation >>>> 7 yrs later--to the delight of the lawyers involved! The sports >>>> complex itself is a nice addition to the community but a huge money >>>> pit, not the profit-generator she claimed it would be. She also >>>> supported bonds for $5.5m for road projects that could have been >>>> done in 5-7 yrs without any borrowing. >>>> >>>> While Mayor, City Hall was extensively remodeled and her office >>>> redecorated more than once. >>>> >>>> These are small numbers, but Wasilla is a very small city. >>>> >>>> As an oil producer, the high price of oil has created a budget >>>> surplus in Alaska. Rather than invest this surplus in technology >>>> that will make us energy independent and increase efficiency, as >>>> Governor she proposed distribution of this surplus to every >>>> individual in the state. >>>> >>>> In this time of record state revenues and budget surpluses, she >>>> recommended that the state borrow/bond for road projects, even >>>> while she proposed distribution of surplus state revenues: spend >>>> today's surplus, borrow for needs. >>>> >>>> She's not very tolerant of divergent opinions or open to outside >>>> ideas or compromise. As Mayor, she fought ideas that weren't >>>> generated by her or her staff. Ideas weren't evaluated on their >>>> merits, but on the basis of who proposed them. >>>> >>>> While Sarah was Mayor of Wasilla she tried to fire our highly >>>> respected City Librarian because the Librarian refused to consider >>>> removing from the library some books that Sarah wanted removed. >>>> City residents rallied to the defense of the City Librarian and >>>> against Palin's attempt at out-and-out censorship, so Palin backed >>>> down and withdrew her termination letter. People who fought her >>>> attempt to oust the Librarian are on her enemies list to this day. >>>> >>>> Sarah complained about the "old boy's club" when she first ran for >>>> Mayor, so what did she bring Wasilla? A new set of "old boys". >>>> Palin fired most of the experienced staff she inherited. At the >>>> City and as Governor she hired or elevated new, inexperienced, >>>> obscure people, creating a staff totally dependent on her for their >>>> jobs and eternally grateful and fiercely loyal--loyal to the point >>>> of abusing their power to further her personal agenda, as she has >>>> acknowledged happened in the case of pressuring the State's top cop >>>> (see below). >>>> >>>> As Mayor, Sarah fired Wasilla's Police Chief because he >>>> "intimidated" her, she told the press. As Governor, her recent >>>> firing of Alaska's top cop has the ring of familiarity about it. He >>>> served at her pleasure and she had every legal right to fire him, >>>> but it's pretty clear that an important factor in her decision to >>>> fire him was because he wouldn't fire her sister's ex-husband, a >>>> State Trooper. Under investigation for abuse of power, she has had >>>> to admit that more than 2 dozen contacts were made between her >>>> staff and family to the person that she later fired, pressuring him >>>> to fire her ex-brother-in-law. She tried to replace the man she >>>> fired with a man who she knew had been reprimanded for sexual >>>> harassment; when this caused a public furor, she withdrew her >>>> support. >>>> >>>> She has bitten the hand of every person who extended theirs to her >>>> in help. The City Council person who personally escorted her around >>>> town introducing her to voters when she first ran for Wasilla City >>>> Council became one of her first targets when she was later elected >>>> Mayor. She abruptly fired her loyal City Administrator; even people >>>> who didn't like the guy were stunned by this ruthlessness. >>>> >>>> Fear of retribution has kept all of these people from saying >>>> anything publicly about her. >>>> >>>> When then-Governor Murkowski was handing out political plums, Sarah >>>> got the best, Chair of the Alaska Oil and Gas Conservation >>>> Commission: one of the few jobs not in Juneau and one of the best >>>> paid. She had no background in oil & gas issues. Within months of >>>> scoring this great job which paid $122,400/yr, she was complaining >>>> in the press about the high salary. I was told that she hated that >>>> job: the commute, the structured hours, the work. Sarah became >>>> aware that a member of this Commission (who was also the State >>>> Chair of the Republican Party) engaged in unethical behavior on the >>>> job. In a gutsy move which some undoubtedly cautioned her could be >>>> political suicide, Sarah solved all her problems in one fell swoop: >>>> got out of the job she hated and garnered gobs of media attention >>>> as the patron saint of ethics and as a gutsy fighter against the >>>> "old boys' club" when she dramatically quit, exposing this man's >>>> ethics violations (for which he was fined). >>>> >>>> As Mayor, she had her hand stuck out as far as anyone for pork from >>>> Senator Ted Stevens. Lately, she has castigated his pork-barrel >>>> politics and publicly humiliated him. She only opposed the "bridge >>>> to nowhere" after it became clear that it would be unwise not to. >>>> >>>> As Governor, she gave the Legislature no direction and budget >>>> guidelines, then made a big grandstand display of line-item vetoing >>>> projects, calling them pork. Public outcry and further legislative >>>> action restored most of these projects--which had been vetoed >>>> simply because she was not aware of their importance--but with the >>>> unobservant she had gained a reputation as "anti-pork". >>>> >>>> She is solidly Republican: no political maverick. The State party >>>> leaders hate her because she has bit them in the back and >>>> humiliated them. Other members of the party object to her >>>> self-description as a fiscal conservative. >>>> >>>> Around Wasilla there are people who went to high school with Sarah. >>>> They call her "Sarah Barracuda" because of her unbridled ambition >>>> and predatory ruthlessness. Before she became so powerful, very >>>> ugly stories circulated around town about shenanigans she pulled to >>>> be made point guard on the high school basketball team. When >>>> Sarah's mother-in-law, a highly respected member of the community >>>> and experienced manager, ran for Mayor, Sarah refused to endorse >>>> her. >>>> >>>> As Governor, she stepped outside of the box and put together of >>>> package of legislation known as "AGIA" that forced the oil >>>> companies to march to the beat of her drum. >>>> >>>> Like most Alaskans, she favors drilling in the Arctic National >>>> Wildlife Refuge. She has questioned if the loss of sea ice is >>>> linked to global warming. She campaigned "as a private citizen" >>>> against a state initiaitive that would have either a) protected >>>> salmon streams from pollution from mines, or b) tied up in the >>>> courts all mining in the state (depending on who you listen to). >>>> She has pushed the State's lawsuit against the Dept. of the >>>> Interior's decision to list polar bears as threatened species. >>>> >>>> McCain is the oldest person to ever run for President; Sarah will >>>> be a heartbeat away from being President. >>>> >>>> There has to be literally millions of Americans who are more >>>> knowledgeable and experienced than she. >>>> >>>> However, there's a lot of people who have underestimated her and >>>> are regretting it. >>>> >>>> CLAIM VS FACT >>>> * "Hockey mom": true for a few years >>>> >>>> * "PTA mom": true years ago when her first-born was in elementary >>>> school, not since >>>> >>>> * "NRA supporter": absolutely true >>>> >>>> * social conservative: mixed. Opposes gay marriage, BUT vetoed a >>>> bill that would have denied benefits to employees in same-sex >>>> relationships (said she did this because it was unconsitutional). >>>> >>>> * pro-creationism: mixed. Supports it, BUT did nothing as Governor >>>> to promote it. >>>> >>>> * "Pro-life": mixed. Knowingly gave birth to a Down's syndrome baby >>>> BUT declined to call a special legislative session on some pro-life >>>> legislation >>>> >>>> * "Experienced": Some high schools have more students than Wasilla >>>> has residents. Many cities have more residents than the state of >>>> Alaska. No legislative experience other than City Council. Little >>>> hands-on supervisory or managerial experience; needed help of a >>>> city administrator to run town of about 5,000. >>>> >>>> * political maverick: not at all >>>> >>>> * gutsy: absolutely! >>>> >>>> * open & transparent: ??? Good at keeping secrets. Not good at >>>> explaining actions. >>>> >>>> * has a developed philosophy of public policy: no >>>> >>>> * "a Greenie": no. Turned Wasilla into a wasteland of big box >>>> stores and disconnected parking lots. Is pro-drilling off-shore and >>>> in ANWR. >>>> >>>> * fiscal conservative: not by my definition! >>>> >>>> * pro-infrastructure: No. Promoted a sports complex and park in a >>>> city without a sewage treatment plant or storm drainage system. >>>> Built streets to early 20th century standards. >>>> >>>> * pro-tax relief: Lowered taxes for businesses, increased tax >>>> burden on residents >>>> >>>> * pro-small government: No. Oversaw greatest expansion of city >>>> government in Wasilla's history. >>>> >>>> * pro-labor/pro-union. No. Just because her husband works union >>>> doesn't make her pro-labor. I have seen nothing to support any >>>> claim that she is pro-labor/pro-union. >>>> >>>> WHY AM I WRITING THIS? >>>> >>>> First, I have long believed in the importance of being an informed >>>> voter. I am a voter registrar. For 10 years I put on student voting >>>> programs in the schools. If you google my name (Anne Kilkenny + >>>> Alaska), you will find references to my participation in local >>>> government, education, and PTA/parent organizations. >>>> >>>> Secondly, I've always operated in the belief that "Bad things >>>> happen when good people stay silent". Few people know as much as I >>>> do because few have gone to as many City Council meetings. >>>> >>>> Third, I am just a housewife. I don't have a job she can bump me >>>> out of. I don't belong to any organization that she can hurt. But, >>>> I am no fool; she is immensely popular here, and it is likely that >>>> this will cost me somehow in the future: that's life. >>>> >>>> Fourth, she has hated me since back in 1996, when I was one of the >>>> 100 or so people who rallied to support the City Librarian against >>>> Sarah's attempt at censorship. >>>> >>>> Fifth, I looked around and realized that everybody else was afraid >>>> to say anything because they were somehow vulnerable. >>>> >>>> CAVEATS >>>> I am not a statistician. I developed the numbers for the increase >>>> in spending & taxation 2 years ago (when Palin was running for >>>> Governor) from information supplied to me by the Finance Director >>>> of the City of Wasilla, and I can't recall exactly what I adjusted >>>> for: did I adjust for inflation? for population increases? Right >>>> now, it is impossible for a private person to get any info out of >>>> City Hall -- they are swamped. So I can't verify my numbers. >>>> >>>> You may have noticed that there are various numbers circulating for >>>> the population of Wasilla, ranging from my "about 5,000", up to >>>> 9,000. The day Palin's selection was announced a city official told >>>> me that the current population is about 7,000. The official 2000 >>>> census count was 5,460. I have used about 5,000 because Palin was >>>> Mayor from 1996 to 2002, and the city was growing rapidly in the >>>> mid-90's. >>>> >>>> Anne Kilkenny >>>> annekilkenny@hotmail.com >>>> August 31, 2008 >>>>> Get the MapQuest Toolbar. Directions, Traffic, Gas Prices & More! >>>> >>>> =
  3. Great arguments everyone! It is all part of the great game we play. It wouldn't be as fun without the bs and the struggle we create. It is amazing that we can do it at all . Most people in this world are just trying to get near some food and merely survive. We have to go lookin for challenge! Back on topic, I do try to take the average grade of all areas, so I may err to the softer side and I dont feel bad about that at all. I dont want anyone to be surprised or disappointed by my grades.I dont feel that my grade have been slammed at all either. I am also a bit of a line driver. Its great to have differing opinions. People know that grades are all over the place.
  4. If it hadnt been such bad wx on the last half dozen weekends there would have been more. I again went 1 for 3 on my attempts and got the lesser project finished. The smart ones headed East. There is no greater fear and then hopefully satisfaction a climber can get than with the truly unknown. I am working on a page that I hope will some justice to the efforts of this amazing generation of new routes. I have felt for many years that this is perhaps the most exciting local new route scene in the lower states. The TRs keep everyone going. I for one know how hard it is to do NRs and TRs, so my sincere thanks , and keep them coming! Safely, that is
  5. Yep, I am headed back there. Job to you on your proud line Mark!
  6. Trip: Sloan Pk.-(FA)-SE Ridge - Probable FA of the SE Ridge of Sloan Peak Date: 9/7/2008 Trip Report: It was time to follow up on a few lines that I have schemed on in the past. 12 years ago I saw a super steep ridge directly above the Corkscrew route where it exits the glacier. It is the cliff on the right skyline. The Corkscrew (CS) Route is the grassy ramp below. Jared and I mounted a spirited attempt the Labor Day weekend before, only to get snowed out half way up the Bedal Creek approach. With renewed vigor and yet still more clouds, Lane an I went after it this weekend. All clear pictures were taken late Saturday or summit day, Sunday. Seems the west side sogginess was to prevail. With newly soaked shoes, we dispatched the approach . Up high, the clouds began their dramatic uplift. Lane and the "Snowpatch Spire of Washington" Monte Cristo Backdrop We then settle into an amazing bivy light show-yet again I am a lucky photographer lately I know I drove Lane nuts with taking a 100+ photos of him. A cold night led to the same in the am. At 8 am we got after the snow-crossing and the lower ramp and got above and into position to do the obvious Dihedral that caps into a big , crackless roof. Route goes up the Black Blocks(pitch 1, 5.2) on left and into the thin cracks on right of dihedral. Lane following 5.7 , pitch 2 I then traversed right onto the crazy-angled East Face! On to a fist crack, and then into the steep thin face section that also served as the crux. Pitch 3, 5.10a, Reachy, "Reach for the Nickel Pitch" Scary, steep and committing! After a crazy mantel left, I sent the final mossy, wet, yet fun dihedral finish. Pitch 4 , 5.10a. We were then stoked to be at the top of the steep part of the lower buttress. What is amazingly fun about Sloan is the upper bench to the left , lets you "Shop" for your finish. I have done 2 lines now on the SE Face and they have both been 4 stars! Pitch 5, contrived, yet 5.9+ Our route takes the lower left dihedral and goes right and straight up from there > Sloan is a blessed and cursed peak. It is blessed with great granite in places,and soaring walls. It is also cursed with huge ledges and western dampness and weather. I have had several great trips there, and it will be the sight of many awesome routes in the future! Cheers to your future with the highly-accessible -Sloan Peak Gear Notes: Cam to 3, several bugaboos
  7. Way to keep Blake from getting all of the new routes!
  8. I would be interested to see what Sols opinion of that would be. Hes done a few of that genre lately
  9. Wow, I saw the route last time I was up there, Good work. I figured it would take aid.
  10. wayne

    Borat

    sexy-time
  11. wayne

    RIF!

    What do you do Rob?
  12. Great shape, Make offer in Seattle, Willing to let go cheap, Thanks, Wayne
  13. HEY PORTER!!Can we sell those books on this site?
  14. Chal is tough in 3. N butt Terrier!
  15. It was the roof at the start that I put in the only piton. The perfect dihedral finish was done on all rps. so the route has been done clean overall. Thanks for the great photos/topos guys,
  16. Jeez!Looked fun 'till the weather came down.
  17. bag a couple of summits. D-tail, Colchuck, stuart(upper n.ridge is doable). CBR,etc Sadly, there arent a lot of climbs under 5.7
  18. Lowlander and I hooked up at last-minute to brave the heat of the hottest days of the year to go after The Torment-Forbidden Traverse. It was appropriate that on that fateful morning we left, that my fried eggs chose to bless us with the proper sign of the second-coming. Reeling from the heat we left Hot Seattle at 6am and started the furnace struggle, nearly frying ourselves on the Taboo Glacier. Once on the ridge, it was way cooler. We didn't end up roping up at all on the whole trip. It was great not be encumbered with the stuff. We did end up rappelling a time or 2. Cant.stop.the. VOICES!! After running into a couple of friends, We settled into a great bivy, that kept getting better with the sunsetting! .....Now , If I recall the "Red Sky at Night/Morning" Lore of Yore ---We should have been ..delighted..? We wondered in the morning as to what it means if you have red skies in both the evening and morning? I guess it meant we were to be scared sailors. We woke to something I had never seen of or heard of before: Behold the "Alpenglow Rainbow"!! Like a giant red bolt of lightning, It looked even more amazing in person. As much as we wanted to just revel in its glory, we were being pressed by the coming electrical storm. It was Lowlander that noticed the crackling first. I suggested that we hunker down and not go more than half way up the west ridge of Forbidden. We got secured in when suddenly I got a sharp jolt across my forehead! I jumped with the pain, making Low jump as well. He later told me that he heard,saw, and felt nothing, though standing right next to me!. It felt like we were in the what-not-to-do illustration in Mountaineering Freedom-of-the Hills! We sat on my insulation pad and covered up in the rain-now scared shit-less. Eventually it chilled the hell out, and we pushed on to the summit- rather quickly. Low barely stopped for a summit shot in the dark skies. It was to be an interesting time getting over the peak we call-Forbidden. It almost felt like it was just that.
  19. wayne

    Housing Market!

    I am glad I sold one of my places in time(3 months ago).I got close to what I wanted ,but didnt make out great. It is easier to sleep being downsized right now. Good luck to you D TP.
  20. Summit Chief Winter routes Oops covered I believe the Jens Route was called "Dragonscar?
  21. With apologies to Jim and Peter, I dont intend on writing some new book. First,I would not be able to put together work near as fine as yours, some of my favorite all-time guidebooks.Second, well I dont need a second reason, but I would encourage a trilogy of your books!! Instead, I hope to put together modest web-page of Trip Report Links that cover great routes that have been REALLY overlooked or are one of the more recent reports on new routes.The climbs should be of great quality and good available beta links. The page will have winter routes too. How could you leave out 3-Fingers or the new ice route on Whitehorse? So here is a great place to post some of the sveet.Please include links. Spray away!
  22. Damn. I am sorry to the people who were a part of her life. Sounds like someone I would have enjoyed meeting. Doesnt help anyone involved, but this is a pattern with the route.I dont know what it is. Is it just the volume of Traffic? Tough to see this, but it is the 4th accident I have heard of on the climb. Having done it last weekend, I was looking at it from a danger perspective, and it just didnt seem that scary.
  23. Wow ,Great beta and report. I hope its ok if I use this report as a link on my traverse page
  24. Alex, what is: "Thread titles that Wayne will click on"
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