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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Trip: Bonanza - N.E. Ridge Date: 6/22/2008 Trip Report: Last weekend, Zac and I climbed the N.E. Ridge of Bonanza Peak. It was a last minute trip. On Friday, we found out that the crane we were using to build with was finally coming down, after weeks of being shut down and in the news constantly. Having Monday off allowed us the time to navigate all of the travel it takes to do the remote Bonanza Peak. We changed plans (from Dragontail to Bonz) and headed off to Fields Point just in time to catch the boat to Lucerne. Soon, we were hopping on the shuttle bus that would take us to the trailhead at the Holden Village, now 2;30 p.m. If you dont know anything about the place, it is well worth investigating.Here is Zac , much happier after his "Indoctrination" Greeted there with waving folk, rain,and ruin we set off in search of early season adventure. Finding snow at Holden lake, we felt lucky to find a dry spot there to camp. Zac trying to hang our food(2hrs) Again, more rain. In the mourning it dawned with clouds , but not as much precip. We found another party just getting up after a go at the Mary Green route the day before. They were turned back by deep snow and snow slides. That made us glad we were trying a ridge route. We had actually hoped to repeat the Volken 3-summit Traverse . We later realized it was too early in the season to try such a committing endeavor. There was to be plenty of adventure just getting up the NE Ridge .I may make the climb sound terrifying, but it was very fun. We first noticed there had been an inch or so of new snow that had stayed on the North Faces. There was also wet-Black-Lichen that was very slippery to put it mildly. The sun came out at times when starting the climb. When the route went into the shady, right side of the ridge, it would be cold and terrifying. On the left, sunny and mild. The climbing became steep and very exposed with just enough loose stuff to send the brain into mortal musings. The route finding was especially difficult. Zac described one of the last obstacles as very "stressful climbing" Many times I would go several directions until it felt feasible. The towers in the middle were overhanging at times and our packs loaded with bivy gear tugged at our balance. It felt like it took us forever to get up the long climb but 3 and a half hours later we were the first to stand on its summit this year. we agreed the climb felt pretty hardcore, and we felt it a sand-bag at grade III- 5.7! All-in-all, though, the climb was alpine bliss. We shared a great start to the season, and I now feel ready for anything! Gear Notes: 4 cams 4 stoppers Approach Notes: drive to Fields Point take the Lady of the Lake to Lucerne( r-t-$40) . Have a reservation for the shuttle bus to Holden Village r-t $15) Hike to Holden Lake( 2 hours, plus)Camp there or Holden pass( another hour and a half. Then 2 hrs to route and 3-6 rs on route. Leave time for an involved descent 6 rappels and steep snow/ glacier travel. Summit Pyramid of Bonanza, NE Ridge on right
  2. Pike street Brewery Or the one across from that dive in freelard
  3. wayne

    fat climbers [Tvrash]

    160-5% BF Ready for da seesun!!!!!!!!!!
  4. 4 miles
  5. Wow that step looked nuts. Nice work Dave
  6. Here it is too, I just updated my Alpine Lakes Page . Jens Holsten has been asking me about Dragons of Eden.
  7. click on the tr inspirations above
  8. Ok here is the grim facts it is 450-600 per person round trip. That to me is cost prohibitive. I am still thinking of doin a car share to the dock and taking the boat.
  9. Wow, Great job, That brings back some great memories. We slogged tons of gear in there to do a wall-type route , but the weather sucked so we did a free route instead, and what a route, again, Congratulations guys
  10. Sticky Thread-New to Partners Forum. Please support it! Rideshare thread I like the 1-5 information criterion
  11. Bump indeed, Any info on how far the road goes, please?
  12. I wont know how much it is until Monday. The hard thing to figure out is how to get back efficiently.we may have to do 2 rides?
  13. Over the 4th of July, I am looking to maybe do Bonanza with 2 teams of 2. Is there a team or 2 willing to share the plane fare from Lake Union to Lucerne? By the time you add the gas and boat ride and the time it takes It may be more than worth the $.
  14. How about a sticky thread in the Partners Forum?
  15. At first, yes, but the guy just grows on you.. He is really convinced that he is the baddest dude ever!
  16. 2 teams of 2 is safer too. This is a great idea and I will be annoyingly persistent to help this if necessary. It would have to be defined and well planned or it could be awkward. It would give the suv's a purpose other than the alone-person-talking-on-the-cell-phone that I usually see
  17. I am planning my move to Canada or Europe in a couple of years.
  18. I have had the opportunity many times to help and have enjoyed doing so. I have needed help before and it was appreciated. Its usually just a case of asking " How are you doing?" then reading between the lines of their response or if it seems like they could be in trouble, I will ask more questions. Even at my most misanthropic, I would help someone.
  19. Rep. Kucinich introduces Impeachment Article So its 7 years too late but it would send a message if it can be done.Let a disgraceful presidency end in disgrace,
  20. wayne

    Real change:

    Apple: Planned Obsolescence
  21. I hate updates sometimes it just screws things up! Somewhere along the way I-Tunes got totally f-up
  22. Absolutly , feels good to have you back E ! Thanks for not pushing it. and Wow to Nancy!
  23. I just hope he (we) can deliver half of what he is striving for! He is now in a select group of personalities that are historically ,politically,and culturally inspiring.
  24. Hi, My daughter and I are in a spot where we have to wait to move into our new condo. If you know of a place in the Northern half of Seattle that is available from June 20th to July 20-something, Please PM me. I know I maybe reaching here, but craigslist is almost overwhelming and I figured it was worth a try here, Wayne
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