wayne

Bill, you know you cant avoid adventure. It will come to you.

Whatever happened to SayJay?

Trip: Adams Gl Headwall, FA- "Ice Extension" - IV-AI4, expect some mixed Date: 7/4/2011 Trip Report: It is a testament to El-Nino and an open minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July in 2011. It also was made possible by being at the high altitude of Mt Adams,- The shade of a northwest face, -and a tough young lady with an eye for ice. Anastasia/Mitochondria enticed me with the following email: Hey Wayne,I was wondering if you would be interested in trying a new variation on the Adams Headwall with me (at >11k) which I spotted last year from the Stormy Monday Couloir.In short, it includes 2 pitch of WI3-4(?) (and it was in through July last year) followed by 60-70 deg alpine ice/rock (more ice early in the season I bet) to get to the rim at about 11500 Here is a few pics from the last year (mid July!) and I can dig more out if needed:WI pitch -longer than it looks on the pic – and probably fatter earlier in the season, stays in shade pretty much all day – cuz it is buried in the buttress: [....mitos pic from last year here, picture on my blog....] Knowing that you are into exploring the new lines on old big volcanoes, I thought I would ask But I understand if you have other priorities/interests. Let me know.Anastasia Given my history of trying anything once, we did the long, snowy approach on Sunday the 3rd and the route on a brutal 22hr Monday, July 4.(counting the drive back). I always forget how big these Monster-Volcanos are. That tiny looking cliff is actually 2 pitches. The whole route is over 3000 feet tall, with several technical pitches along the top of it. After sharing the first half of the "Stormy Monday Couloir" we soloed the first steps. Then got after the middle pitches, the first was a 50m WI3+. Mito tackled the 30m 2nd pitch. After the middle pitches, it became a real struggle to find a way up the overhanging 60m rock band at the top. I began a traverse to the left hoping it would allow me get to the summit snow-slopes. It went on for quite a ways until I found the way through. It was an awesome pitch. Vertical ice and rock followed by a short overhang with”good” rime to pull up on. Such a great finish to a long ice season. The Line The Approach Camping out at 8k Camping out at 8k Camping out at 8k Mito soloing the first pitch WI2, mixed Mitochondria on The middle Pitches Mito Leading Middle Pitches Mito Before the Traverse Mito resting the calves mid Traverse The Traverse A wtf moment on the crux, Mito on the crux last pitch, AI4, mixed Topping out The exhausted team on the top. It was a fine route that extended our ice season into extra innings. A few memories that stand out for me are the extra 3 miles each way on the snowy road, both of my crampons almost falling off while soloing the first middle pitches, the amazing crux pitch, Mitos uncontrolled exuberance after doing her dream route. Special thanks to Jim at Pro Mt Sports for the last minute gear grab! More on my blog below.

Nice,did you start from the toe of the ridge, You may have done the East ridge of the South Chamber? Or go to the summit? Is that Nate in the photos?

Geez, looks great. I wish I had energy after work.

I enjoyed it, choss and the year after you guys did it. CC TR

Looks like fun routes. Way to fill in the blanks. I wish I knew if the lines were to be featured in the coming guide. Kinda doubt it. There are some other "Steel Cliff" Routes to the left.

Nice job, been a while since I have been on that route. Is climate change vegetating these routes, or lack of traffic. It seems the rock used to be fairly clean,

More heroics on Stuart! Bold choice with the warm weather.

Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS3 10.1 MP Digital Camera - Black. Used but in great condition, slight scratches on the view screen. 1 year old. $300 new. Will let go for $150, slow postage included

Scenic, sunrise on Stuart. Cragging: North Dome Crest Jewel direct. Ice: Broken Hearts, May hay been taken by Tom S. Ice: By Beau Carrillo. "Alpinebeau509" Alpine: Nw Face of Stuart, willing to take half of the prize due to camera tilt.

Thanks for the beta. You were responsible for more than a dozen people going up there last weekend for some real good times! Wayne

Hey Jon, we cant post photos in the reply to the photo contest.

Jmace, You know I wouldnt let that happen. He was also in the anchor. Still trying to make it up there. Hope your Cannucks make it!

Looks awesome!

[video:youtube]

Trip: Mt Stuart-NW Face Couloir - Date: 6/11/2011 Trip Report: NW Face ice couloir/1984 route / "the Eighties Testpiece" 2006 report from Craig under thin conditions Facebook album Always on the look out for great alpine ice climbs, I was hoping the elements for this route on Stuart were in place. first the route must be in shape, and the road should be open to the trailhead. A trip report on Stuart Glacier Couloir-cc.com settled these issues for me, all that was left was to find a willing participant or two. Tom and Daniel were looking forward to extending their ice season. None of us could believe a big ice climb could still be in in mid June. Heavy packs were loaded with every weapon in the arsenal: Pins, pickets, screws, cams, stoppers, etc. Snowshoes were handy getting us to the only dry place to sleep,: a large boulder. Tom took the only flat spot so I piled up avy debris for a flat, dry spot. A cold night led to a 3:00 am wake -up. It was going to be a full day of exciting mountaineering. The start of the climb didnt quite connect. It took a long reach to connect to some pretty unstable ice ribbons. After that, the traverse right was exciting, ending in a steep, short chimney. The other interesting leads were the pitch to get around the Great Gendarme, and the spicy mixed top out around the summit cornice. It ended up being an awesome outing. We did the climb in 4 blocks with some looong simo-soloing. We reveled in the stellar climbing, exposure and ultimately stunning summit. This is a route that should see much more traffic. It is a gem. Special thanks to Jim Nelson at pro Mt Sports for beta and gear. Video pending, check back More on my blog below Approach Notes: Mteers Creek

it is fat and uncorniced at the top. There are some huge ones on the side though. The 'schrund is almost wall to wall but very passable. shin deep snow in the afternoon. Great glissade. We came down it after doing the NW Face of Stuart. TR to follow.

Nice job! Did you descend the Sherpa? How was that?

You werent supposed to mention me! Here is my report

Right on Jens! Should be a great show.

Except for the ugly bidding war for Dougs company, the ski-in was spectacular! We did the B-day tour and then Sisyphus the next day, So much fun!

Nice!!!!!!

I heard they just got a publisher recently. Hold the vigil.

I will be cragging and skiing. This should be my 5th or 6th time there. Cant wait. I think Lane and friend are going too! ..and-There is nothing wrong with Fun Rock.