wayne

Jmace, You know I wouldnt let that happen. He was also in the anchor. Still trying to make it up there. Hope your Cannucks make it!

Looks awesome!

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Trip: Mt Stuart-NW Face Couloir - Date: 6/11/2011 Trip Report: NW Face ice couloir/1984 route / "the Eighties Testpiece" 2006 report from Craig under thin conditions Facebook album Always on the look out for great alpine ice climbs, I was hoping the elements for this route on Stuart were in place. first the route must be in shape, and the road should be open to the trailhead. A trip report on Stuart Glacier Couloir-cc.com settled these issues for me, all that was left was to find a willing participant or two. Tom and Daniel were looking forward to extending their ice season. None of us could believe a big ice climb could still be in in mid June. Heavy packs were loaded with every weapon in the arsenal: Pins, pickets, screws, cams, stoppers, etc. Snowshoes were handy getting us to the only dry place to sleep,: a large boulder. Tom took the only flat spot so I piled up avy debris for a flat, dry spot. A cold night led to a 3:00 am wake -up. It was going to be a full day of exciting mountaineering. The start of the climb didnt quite connect. It took a long reach to connect to some pretty unstable ice ribbons. After that, the traverse right was exciting, ending in a steep, short chimney. The other interesting leads were the pitch to get around the Great Gendarme, and the spicy mixed top out around the summit cornice. It ended up being an awesome outing. We did the climb in 4 blocks with some looong simo-soloing. We reveled in the stellar climbing, exposure and ultimately stunning summit. This is a route that should see much more traffic. It is a gem. Special thanks to Jim Nelson at pro Mt Sports for beta and gear. Video pending, check back More on my blog below Approach Notes: Mteers Creek

it is fat and uncorniced at the top. There are some huge ones on the side though. The 'schrund is almost wall to wall but very passable. shin deep snow in the afternoon. Great glissade. We came down it after doing the NW Face of Stuart. TR to follow.

Nice job! Did you descend the Sherpa? How was that?

You werent supposed to mention me! Here is my report

Right on Jens! Should be a great show.

Except for the ugly bidding war for Dougs company, the ski-in was spectacular! We did the B-day tour and then Sisyphus the next day, So much fun!

Nice!!!!!!

I heard they just got a publisher recently. Hold the vigil.

I will be cragging and skiing. This should be my 5th or 6th time there. Cant wait. I think Lane and friend are going too! ..and-There is nothing wrong with Fun Rock.

....going! See you there!

brings back some memories.

Wow nice photo, the direct tc is almost in. Wish that damn road was open to the trailhead.

The only reason there isnt more of a police stat is so few are acting out against it

That chockstone rap was sweet! Note the extra pebble shoved in the top.

Nice thing about places other than the NW: The bad weather actually goes away!

Awesome. I am doing an event for PP as well this October! Good to see support.

How about a video contest?

Thanks, I just cant wait to get back there, The Titan must be reckoned with as with Standing Rock, etc. etc. Its my new Disneyland.

Cant think of more deserving people. An untold story about the Mox deal; -Rumor redacted- Continues to pay off.. Joes show was what got me into the towers, and made me think for a while that I wanted to go back to the Himalaya. Steph continues to battle hard in her recovery. She will be back doing her great trs and pics for sure. Dont know what happened to the Uncle. He used to pub-club and seemed real cool too. Anyone know? Thanks CC and Jim @ PMS

Where do you live?

Early stoke to be had, nice! Bums on the cornice, would of made a nice view. Love the Pickets from their hidden side shot!

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