wayne

coming soon...

Trip: 3 1/2 Utah Towers - A.Art, Jah Man, W.Woman, Titan Date: 5/12/2011 Trip Report: After last years jaunt through Utah and my friends recent trip, I was pretty excited to get back. It is an amazing and challenging place to climb. The nose, eyes, lungs, and ears get clogged with sand. The wind drives it everywhere. It is either hot or cold, and inhospitable most of the time. Sounds bad, but at times it is pure bliss as well. The trip was thrown together last minute with the sudden recruitment of a new partner I found from Vancouver, B.C. by the name of Jesse (jmace). A strong climber raised on granite, he was in for culture shock in his new martian environment. We first went to the City of Rocks, but found it under a foot of snow. Castle Rocks though was in prime shape. We did the High Road (5.11, 3p) first then did some great climbs called Patina Atoll (10d), and the sweet route called Twinkie (10c). The next day we finished the drive and did Ancient Art via the Stolen Chimney in the Fisher Towers. So fun- Next Day it was the incredible Jah Man Then Washerwoman, where we met up with cc legend Layton and his new wife! And finally off to the TItan, getting half way up before the rain hit, More on the old blog.

That is great! Awesome things getting done there.

The place looks great. I've heard the grades are stiff. old school

Nice! Cant wait to see it.

I have never seen so much snow there! Thanks for the great pics

2 weeks in the Utah desert.

160

Bump, Looking for partner for late May

Thats great, fast work on a big mountain! Looks like those glaciers were thinly covered and the route looked like hard, old ice. Does remind me of K2 as well.

Trip: Yosemite Valley-4 busy days - Date: 4/24/2011 Trip Report: Dave(skisports) and I spent 4 great days in the Valley bagging 45 pitches, half over 5.10. Avoiding the wet spots was difficult ,but the place is starting to dry out. We had a great time spending 2 nights above the valley rim. Day 1: on the 5 Open Books Commitment 5.9, 3p The Surprise Direct 5.10d 3p Day 2: Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday 5.10d 8p. Incredible route! Day 3; Royally wet Arches 5.9, 15p. To get to North Dome the next day Day 4: Crest Jewell Direct 5.10d A0 15p, then another night on top of Washingtons Column. I will be adding a video later and there are more photos/words on my blog/climbing journal Sons Of Yesterday Crest Jewell Direct Crest Jewell Direct. Top of North Dome.

Nice photos, mate!

Nice, so steep, hard to tell which way is up in the pics!

Hal Spray serve

I have seen dead man flukes fashioned to work fixed onto ice axes for the deep stuff. Colin used them on Cerro. Rime that I have encountered in the depths of winter on Hood has been almost unclimbable. After Pineapple Express storms or cold spring days, it alot better, you can even get screws in the stuff at times. I wrote a thing on it in the next Hood guide coming out soon ->(Hopefully )

I can echo both of those sentiments now as well. I lasted 1 route before I taped!

Trip: Trout Creek - Date: 4/9/2011 Trip Report: [video:youtube] Spent 3 great days with Kelly( tanstaafl), and the gang climbing the splitter cracks at Trout Creek. I am always stoked to climb there plenty of great routes in the 5.10-5.11 range and they are all 4 stars. Ran into the legendary Yosemite climber mark Hudon as well. Temps are starting to get into season there. We had 1 cold day. No bugs or fishermen yet. More on my blog below.

Thought I would load a couple of topos.

Great report. Surdriving the road!

Looks like I have the 2nd week in may booked, anyone want to go sooner? I am interested in Astroman/Rostrum, Red Rocks ( Rainbow wall, Levitation 29), desert towers.

I am flexible with times/places. Would love to go do desert towers.

Yes, prizes are great. but I need clarification on which contest we are discussing. The March tr or the all time? Is there an efficient voting page? Clarity is nice.

I am looking for someone to go to Trout Creek this weekend . trad heaven. fri, sat,sun

Looking for 1-2 people to head to Trout Creek from Seattle for 2-4 days around the weekend. I will be meeting friends there so partnership is flexible.

Did the route today. It is So nice!! Thanks Dave!