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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Sik shot Tom!!! I can hardly believe it myself, these days. Thanks.
  2. Real nice Tom, and Steph. Any good shots of Mongo?
  3. Your first time in there? Thats a long hump.
  4. Interesting rock, Thanks for the report,Mate
  5. Are you saying the place sucks? I added a litttle more to the review on my blog , and crossed the line into blatant spam whore territory.
  6. Gosh Steph, we expected so much more from you. All kidding aside though, Great job in them mountains sister! That haul over Easy Pass prolly not so easy?
  7. It is out, the Northwest Oregon Rock/Ice guide! I wasn't expecting it, and it surprised me greatly. The trend in Tims series gradually had less content as the new editions came out. This one obliterated that trend with an exhaustingly complete catalogue of nearly all of the major ares as well as dozens of the obscure. Such a treat for the adventure groveler. Areas include 80 different climbing areas from south to Eugene north to St Helens. East to Hells Canyon. From winter mixed on Illumination Rock, to a brief section on the Menagerie. He also included Gorge Ice! The Wolf Rock section is amazing. Absent is the Portland area crags, and the Beacon area, but he has covered that well in the past efforts. Not since the Dodge guide have we seen a book that covers so much of Northern Oregon. Hats off to you Tim, and thanks for nearly 20 years of hard work in your public service to us all, Wayne Buy it here, for surprisingly little $ : http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/portland-rock-climbs Its the 2nd book down the list.
  8. Yes it is a complete work. 20 years in the making. Got my copy last week and it is stunning!
  9. Looks like something I would do. What is the L part of FLA? loving?
  10. Thats great Guys. Nice job! Glad we have the Stuart Range.
  11. Good report! *note* Girth Pillar parties often go over the N ridge to approach to the upper rock section, Rather than starting with the Ice Cliff.
  12. Mazeno Ridge is the 6 mile, high altitude ridge connected to the summit of Nanga Parbat . A true monster. 2 teams make the staggering ascent. . Another blog link Summit post "The Mazeno ridge is the longest ridge on any 8000m mountain and includes eight 7000m peaks. Contrary to often incorrect information on the net, all the Mazeno peaks have now been climbed although nobody has managed to traverse the ridge and continue to the summit of Nanga Parbat. The best attempt to date was that by Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson in summer 2004. They managed a full 10km traverse of all the Mazeno peaks to the point where the ridge meets the Schell Route at 6940m. First ascents were made of Peak 7060m, Peak 7120m (Mazeno Peak), Peak 7100m and Peak 7070m. Illness and exhaustion forced them to descend. Previous attempts included that by Doug Scott in 1992 that climbed the first three peaks. Scott also attempted the ridge in 1993 and 1995 but got no higher. Wojciech Kurtyka and Erhard Loretan made an attempt in 1997." -summit post Props to local hardman Steve Swenson for pioneering it years ago.
  13. Looks like a great trip! Thanks for sharing it.
  14. At least it doesnt say "fun!" on one of the pitches.Thanks for adding to the list of must do/try routes.
  15. Wow, great report!. worth the wait.
  16. Smart young man you are. I bailed off that headwall too, and went off to the right to summit. It is a dangerous proposition going straight up.
  17. Congratulations, Pictures?
  18. Oak is much more potent, too, than Ivy, i believe.
  19. Great report Mike! Stoked for you guys. Looks like you hombres got a good one in before the heat got too bad.
  20. Where is the trip report already Ivan/Mike/Tvash????? Edit: good job.
  21. Thanks, I will. pm me your info, Wayne
  22. DAMN!!! I should have done that when I was in there last year! :{
  23. Trip: Elephants Perch - The Fine Line/Sunrise book Date: 7/3/2012 Trip Report: Faced with the possibility of working 6 days/week all summer is not a fun prospect. I wanted to have a trip with sun, fun, and full value routes. After considering several options, I went back to the Sawtooth Range of Central Idaho for an ass-whooping 4th of July 2012. Joining forces with Nic H. on Fine Line was the first enticing prospect. It may be the most amazing rock climb I have ever done. Boasting 10 steep, sustained, and amazing pitches, there is some special movement with every lead. The next day after, Lane, Nic and I teamed up to dispatch the spectacular Sunrise Book on the shorter West face of Elephants Perch. It offered 5 crazy pitches up a dead vertical and overhanging corner. This intense route ended in a giant chimney/roof that was one of the all-time sick finishes. The Elephants Perch is fast becoming my favorite alpine wall! Enjoy the photos, and go there someday! More on my On-line journal Gear Notes: 2-3 sets of small, med cams, set of all stoppers Approach Notes: Redfish Lodge boat ride. Then 3 hrs hike in
  24. Nice work guys! Getting tougher to drive to the Rockies now.
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